Trip Report
Croatia Illustrated: The Swimsuit Edition
Sunday November 22, 2015 11:47am
With no climbing badassery to share, I figured I'd have to resort to the promise of a bikini shot to get anyone's attention.

Natalia and I spent 9 days in Croatia mid to late September and were duly impressed. The weather was about perfect and the rock was typically solid, quality limestone.

We flew directly into Venice and rented a peppy diesel Renault.
7.5 hrs. later (should have been 6 but we got lost in Italy...) we pulled into the seaside town of Starigrad. Our apartment was one of four similar units in a great house half a km away from the Adriatic, and in the other direction, about a km from Paklenica National Park. It's a nothing walk from the canyon entrance to where the climbing starts. Tunneled right there into the cliff is a shop with a bit of everything, including espresso and cold beer. Next to that is a first-rate washroom carved into the cliff as well. Then there are the dozens of single pitch routes along the canyon that you can reach within minutes of your car. Throw in the odd multi-pitch and you have enough to keep you entertained for weeks. The bigger routes start about a half-hour hike away.

We were never more than a few minutes from either the sea, superb hiking or rocks to climb. If there are non-climbers in your group this makes an especially great destination.
Accommodation, food, wine and beer are all top notch and inexpensive.
I'm talking 45 EUR a night for a spotless well appointed apt. that sleeps 4. Some pretty good beers go for 1 EUR. A litre! The excellent local wines are about 3 EUR a bottle and up.
We stuck to Croatian specialities like grilled seafood or roast lamb and were never disappointed. I'm working on duplicating a ubiquitous dish of potatoes, greens, olive oil and garlic.
If you're a cheese lover be sure to try their aged sheep cheese called Ovidur.

You have many options for rest days. For the truly beat, I'd recommend eating, drinking, and lounging in the Adriatic.
Strolling through Croatia's beautiful historic towns and cities, or visiting their travertine producing waterfalls are not to be missed either!
We also spent a couple of days (not nearly enough) on the island of Hvar visiting beaches and cragging.
Sorry for the butt shots...
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Natalia testing the waters of Krk National Park.
Natalia testing the waters of Krk National Park.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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Pokrvenik Cove where there are dozens of newly developed routes.
Pokrvenik Cove where there are dozens of newly developed routes.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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Credit: 7SacredPools
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Credit: 7SacredPools
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Credit: 7SacredPools
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Credit: 7SacredPools
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The first pitch of Kamasutra at the north end of the Anika Kuk formati...
The first pitch of Kamasutra at the north end of the Anika Kuk formation in Paklenica National Park.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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Natalia leading the final pitch.
Natalia leading the final pitch.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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Some weird rock huh?
Some weird rock huh?
Credit: 7SacredPools
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On the summit of Anika Kuk.
On the summit of Anika Kuk.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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Credit: 7SacredPools
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Looking down at Natalia back at the start of the amazing traverse pitc...
Looking down at Natalia back at the start of the amazing traverse pitch on Klin, another fine route on the Anika Kuk formation.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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Natalia taking in the exposure on Klin after falling on the  roof crac...
Natalia taking in the exposure on Klin after falling on the roof crack. We just made the summit by nightfall.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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The beautiful northwest face of Anika Kuk. Klin is a fairly direct rou...
The beautiful northwest face of Anika Kuk. Klin is a fairly direct route just left of centre. Mosoraski is right of centre.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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After that long day on Klin we headed to the island of Hvar to climb s...
After that long day on Klin we headed to the island of Hvar to climb single pitch sport a stone's throw from beaches like this one in the village of Milna.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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Being the civilized place that it is, Croatia actually encourages clim...
Being the civilized place that it is, Croatia actually encourages climbing!
This excellent crag overlooks the village of Milna on the island of Hvar.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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The city of Split where you catch the ferry to Hvar.
The city of Split where you catch the ferry to Hvar.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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Sunrise on the Adriatic.
Sunrise on the Adriatic.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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Natalia leading the overhanging Kaurismakis Mistake pitch on Mosoraski...
Natalia leading the overhanging Kaurismakis Mistake pitch on Mosoraski (6a). This is the most popular route on the north-west face of Anika Kuk but we had it to ourselves.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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Back in Paklenica NP for our last day I asked a German tourist to snap...
Back in Paklenica NP for our last day I asked a German tourist to snap a shot of us at the entrance to the canyon. My broken German often came in handy.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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A typical pitch in the park canyon.
A typical pitch in the park canyon.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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The local wine is excellent.
The local wine is excellent.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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Natalia was not so impressed with the potent fig liquor although the w...
Natalia was not so impressed with the potent fig liquor although the woman behind her found it orgasmic.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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Breakfast on our balcony about a mile from Paklenica NP.
Breakfast on our balcony about a mile from Paklenica NP.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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The place came with a resident tortoise.
The place came with a resident tortoise.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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On our last evening in Croatia we ran up a super fun 5.7ish trad line ...
On our last evening in Croatia we ran up a super fun 5.7ish trad line on this 80m tower called Zub.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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The harbour in the town of Hvar on the island of Hvar.
The harbour in the town of Hvar on the island of Hvar.
Credit: 7SacredPools
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  Trip Report Views: 5,412
7SacredPools
About the Author
Garry Reiss is from Ontario, Canada.

Comments
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Nov 22, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
Thanks I wanna go!
Fish Finder

climber
  Nov 22, 2015 - 01:04pm PT
Ive never been much of a fig licker myself

nice TR looks like ya had some fun!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Nov 22, 2015 - 02:23pm PT
My Croat homie, Zeljko, is threatening to drag me there bodily.
I might have to take him up on that threat. Don't know from no fig
brandy but I've a history with Slivovitz, the plum brandy from yonder.
Nice pics! Being a belay slave doesn't look like it hurt much, either.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Nov 22, 2015 - 03:54pm PT
Looks like a beautiful place with excellent climbing....definetly on my short list. By the way, you keep excellent company!
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
  Nov 22, 2015 - 03:04pm PT
Whoa! Want some.

I love to liqu figs too.

I've heard many good things about the Serbia - Croatia coast. Gotta get over there.
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
  Nov 22, 2015 - 03:49pm PT
Wow...what a place , thanks for the share !
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Nov 22, 2015 - 04:26pm PT
Totally cool
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
  Nov 22, 2015 - 05:09pm PT
Great shots. Thanks for posting up.

Im looking for a good place for this winter. How would it be in February?
7SacredPools

Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
Author's Reply  Nov 23, 2015 - 04:49am PT
Thanks all :)
Come summer it would be tough to climb in the sun, and of course there will be way more tourists. But in mid to late September we were often the only ones at a crag so perhaps it wouldn't be too bad.
Hvar in February would be great for climbing. For swimming, not so much.
Paklenica NP is apparently quite windy in the winter.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Nov 22, 2015 - 08:19pm PT
Fun and exotic travelogue!

Thanks for sharing your fun with us.

Looks like some quality limestone.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Nov 22, 2015 - 09:08pm PT
Sweet...my short list as well!

Thanks!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 22, 2015 - 09:55pm PT
Awesome!
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
  Nov 23, 2015 - 08:02am PT
^^^^^^^^^^^

Now I know what losers to expect to run into when I'm there.

Super.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Nov 23, 2015 - 08:39am PT
Fantastic, thanks for posting!!!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Nov 23, 2015 - 08:48am PT
Wow!!

Super cool!! The stone, the setting, the accommodations,it all looks top flight.

Thanks for taking us along!
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Nov 23, 2015 - 08:52am PT
TFPU
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Nov 23, 2015 - 09:05am PT
Wow, that was an enjoyable read! Looks like a fantastic vacation.

Did you order some guidebooks before you went (were they available online), or did you just get info locally once you arrived?

How did you find the limestone? Was it slippery/polished or textured?

BTW you are a lovely looking couple.
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
  Nov 23, 2015 - 12:21pm PT
It's been a few years, but we ordered our guidebooks from the UK, couldn't find a domestic source for the most recent editions.

Stone was varied, polished on the trail side moderates and photo ops(eg 3 bolt harder line on the underbelly of a boulder in the creek), practically untouched/great texture throughout most of the park. Never anything I'd really call sharp.

We also flew into Zagreb which cut the drive down to about 3 hours of empty 2 lane toll road and put Plitvice between the climbing and the airport.
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Nov 23, 2015 - 06:19pm PT
Pretty sneaky title with swimsuit, but it was worth the look... ;-)

Neat looking place, would love to check it out. TFPU.
ecflau

Gym climber
CA
  Nov 23, 2015 - 06:28pm PT
Wow awesome! I would have clicked for Croatia, but the swimsuit helped. Haha.

Question : Which guidebook / resource did you use for climbing info? I'd be very interested in checking out climbing in Croatia sometime. Its probably my favorite country in Europe.
7SacredPools

Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
Author's Reply  Nov 23, 2015 - 08:30pm PT
We bought the "Paklenica" guide in the little shop just past the entrance to the park (cheaper than online I think). They also had the "Croatia" guide which covers most of the other areas but we just relied on internet sources for the crags we visited on Hvar.

As for the rock, you'll find every kind of feature and texture. From smooth to super grippy.
Some of the easy and moderate routes along the canyon have slippery bits, but once you get away from there polish is not a problem.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
  Nov 23, 2015 - 11:14pm PT
Nice!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Nov 24, 2015 - 10:12am PT
I'd always wondered about climbs near the Dalmatian coast and the east side of the Adriatic generally. Thank you for posting an excellent TR on what, for me, is a quite exotic climbing region.

John
runitoutray

Trad climber
ON, Can
  Nov 30, 2015 - 05:59pm PT
Was the limestone more polished than Cobwebs at the "Snake"? That can't be surpassed.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Nov 30, 2015 - 10:47pm PT
Fantastic adventure. First class all the way. Thanks for a great write up. Will add it to the "must visit" list!

Scott
7SacredPools

Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
Author's Reply  Dec 1, 2015 - 04:47am PT
Was the limestone more polished than Cobwebs at the "Snake"? That can't be surpassed.
Indeed, it can't! And no it wasn't :)
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Dec 1, 2015 - 09:36am PT
Excellent! Definitely adding to my list too! I'll be within a day's drive of there after Christmas, but will be chillin' with my Italian in-laws rather than climbing. If we get out at all, it will be for a day or two in the pre-Alps, maybe Resegone or Grignetta or Grignone.
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