Trip Report
Cloudveil Dome/Fall Ice Stoke/Climbing with old dudes
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Sunday October 24, 2010 10:06pm
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Jim Olson and I set out to climb Cloudveil Dome yesterday with great anticipation for more fall ice. We found some. Jim is a professional mountain guide on the JHMG roster. As we all know, guiding can be a part-time endeavor at best. Jim auguments his living as a tile-setter. This is how we met. I hired Jim two years ago to do some tile on one of my jobs and he has been my de-facto tile sub ever since.
Jim, aka Jamie (hai-me), is a Victor, Idaho/Jackson, Wyoming fixture. He has been climbing here and route setting for the better of the past 30 years. Humility is one of his defining characteristics. All day long we joked about how it is to climb with old dudes. Jim would talk about the days when he was "honed".
We had set out to climb the ephemeral ice route "Nimbus". Excuses, excuses, excuses. Jim was feeling a bit hypoxic and I was a little fatigued from my up-hill ski race training. So we decided to take it a little easier and climb some moderate ice on the Zorro.
Enough with the babble, here is a photo blast:
A brief list of why it is cool to climb with old trad guys:
--They think quick-draws are useless in the mountains
--They equalize anchors with a double figure eight knot
--They prefer to carry anorexic gear racks
--They know loads of great local history
--They carry good climbing food like dried bananas, salame sandwiches, and coca-cola
We ushered in the first real winter storm of the year. It was cold all day it started snow just as we reached the summit.
What a great day! Thanks Jim.
NFB
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About the Author Nate Brown is fired up for winter! |
Comments
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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Oct 24, 2010 - 10:14pm PT
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And they know how to back up an anchor.......
And well they hardly ever bitch......but have heap of stories of why it would be prudent to turn around.....
but keep going up.....
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 25, 2010 - 08:50am PT
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Sweet looks great. Yup, looks like winter.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Oct 25, 2010 - 09:42am PT
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Fantastic!
I'd like to get on the Zorro, but, in perfect neve conditions...ha ha.
Cheers!
-Brian in SLC
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Oct 25, 2010 - 10:44am PT
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Looks like a nice day in the mtns :) About that boot shot: looks like grivel G20's .. if so, how do you like them ?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 25, 2010 - 10:50am PT
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Hey, I KNOW that Jim Olson!!
Yes, climbing with old guys is "usually" the best. And here's why:
1) They're experienced, and still kicking for a reason.
2) They don't rattle easy.
3) They're slow, (sometimes) and you can keep up.
4) They're ok with going down for the right reasons.
Climb on!!!
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Alpinista55
Mountain climber
Portland, OR
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Oct 25, 2010 - 11:07am PT
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Hey Nate -
Nice TR! And you couldn't find a better partner than Jim. He and I did a lot of climbing together back in the day. Yeah, I'm another one of those "old trad guys" you spoke of, although I do my trad in a vintage blue-water sailboat these days.
Jim and I have climbed together from JT and Red Rocks to the French Ridge on Mt. Huntington, and he was always a rock-solid partner on the climb. He also livened up every bivy, whether it was in a tent on a glacier deep in the Alaska Range, or in his old Datsun coupe at the end of a dirt road in the Nevada desert.
Last time I saw Jimmy was in the Cirque of the Towers in the Winds. He left his client bivouacked high up in the cirque, then walked down to the meadows with his umbrella in a rain storm to visit our camp.
It was nice to see pics of Jim today. It brought back great memories of that patented grin and goofy laugh I knew so well.
Later --
Jay Kerr
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Oct 25, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
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Nice trip report, Nate. That old trad guy you're with dragged me up my first long, hard waterfall route about 25 years ago. I was under the impression that he did not do the winter climbing thing anymore, so congratulations for getting him out. Tell him that Brad (from Boulder) says hi.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 25, 2010 - 12:41pm PT
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Old, bold and maybe a little cold- well done!
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micronut
Trad climber
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Oct 25, 2010 - 12:48pm PT
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way to git after it!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Oct 25, 2010 - 04:42pm PT
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Nice stuff.
Prod.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Oct 26, 2010 - 12:03pm PT
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great report
I love to hear about trips to areas that are not so famous.
and reminding me to be sure my crampons and tools are sharp before real winter reaches the Sierras.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Oct 27, 2010 - 12:21pm PT
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Hurray for old guys!
Looks cold...
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Oct 27, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
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Looks chilly!
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AKTrad
Mountain climber
AK
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Oct 27, 2010 - 03:14pm PT
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Brrrrrr!!!! Looks colder than Alaska. But very cool, too.
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Oct 27, 2010 - 06:46pm PT
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Excellent photos. Thanks for taking time to share your experience.
...quite an autumn in the Tetons, this year.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Oct 27, 2010 - 06:55pm PT
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Brings back some memories. Dave Dornan and I climbed the short but pleasant north face of Cloudveil back in 1956 or 57. Nice peak.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Oct 29, 2010 - 03:41pm PT
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Awesome TR
Thanks!
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Oct 29, 2010 - 06:28pm PT
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Jaime the Honemaster.
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setnei
Mountain climber
Warshington
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Great write up... Makes me homesick for WY.
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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Nov 15, 2010 - 11:54am PT
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Thanks!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 16, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
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Any good fall ice yet?
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