Trip Report
Cloudveil Dome/Fall Ice Stoke/Climbing with old dudes

by NFB
Sunday October 24, 2010 10:06pm
Grand obscured, Teewinot right <br/>
Grand obscured, Teewinot right

Credit: NFB

Jim Olson and I set out to climb Cloudveil Dome yesterday with great anticipation for more fall ice. We found some. Jim is a professional mountain guide on the JHMG roster. As we all know, guiding can be a part-time endeavor at best. Jim auguments his living as a tile-setter. This is how we met. I hired Jim two years ago to do some tile on one of my jobs and he has been my de-facto tile sub ever since.

Jim, aka Jamie (hai-me), is a Victor, Idaho/Jackson, Wyoming fixture. He has been climbing here and route setting for the better of the past 30 years. Humility is one of his defining characteristics. All day long we joked about how it is to climb with old dudes. Jim would talk about the days when he was "honed".

Cloudveil Dome. "Nimbus" is the ice system to the left, Zorro Snowfiel...
Cloudveil Dome. "Nimbus" is the ice system to the left, Zorro Snowfields are to the right
Credit: NFB
We had set out to climb the ephemeral ice route "Nimbus". Excuses, excuses, excuses. Jim was feeling a bit hypoxic and I was a little fatigued from my up-hill ski race training. So we decided to take it a little easier and climb some moderate ice on the Zorro.

Enough with the babble, here is a photo blast:

Jim approaching the Zorro ledge connector
Jim approaching the Zorro ledge connector
Credit: NFB
Lower part of Zorro looking thin. Maybe next week--It is raining cats ...
Lower part of Zorro looking thin. Maybe next week--It is raining cats and dogs right now here in the valley.
Credit: NFB
Grand Teton
Grand Teton
Credit: NFB
Jim climbing toward the Zorro
Jim climbing toward the Zorro
Credit: NFB
The Zorro with ice. Teton ice--here today, gone tomorrow.
The Zorro with ice. Teton ice--here today, gone tomorrow.
Credit: NFB
Jim at the bottom of the ice. Nez Perce in the background.
Jim at the bottom of the ice. Nez Perce in the background.
Credit: NFB
Credit: NFB
Credit: NFB
Credit: NFB
Credit: NFB
awesome exposure on this ridge!
awesome exposure on this ridge!
Credit: NFB
Jim on the summit of Cloudveil Dome
Jim on the summit of Cloudveil Dome
Credit: NFB
Credit: NFB
Going down
Going down
Credit: NFB
Credit: NFB
a typical Teton "pinch" anchor
a typical Teton "pinch" anchor
Credit: NFB
Credit: NFB
the team triumphant!
the team triumphant!
Credit: NFB

A brief list of why it is cool to climb with old trad guys:
--They think quick-draws are useless in the mountains
--They equalize anchors with a double figure eight knot
--They prefer to carry anorexic gear racks
--They know loads of great local history
--They carry good climbing food like dried bananas, salame sandwiches, and coca-cola

We ushered in the first real winter storm of the year. It was cold all day it started snow just as we reached the summit.

What a great day! Thanks Jim.

  Trip Report Views: 2,395
NFB
About the Author
Nate Brown is fired up for winter!

Comments
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Decko

Trad climber
Colorado
  Oct 24, 2010 - 10:14pm PT
And they know how to back up an anchor.......

And well they hardly ever bitch......but have heap of stories of why it would be prudent to turn around.....

but keep going up.....
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Oct 25, 2010 - 08:50am PT
Sweet looks great. Yup, looks like winter.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Oct 25, 2010 - 09:42am PT
Fantastic!

I'd like to get on the Zorro, but, in perfect neve conditions...ha ha.

Cheers!

-Brian in SLC
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Oct 25, 2010 - 10:44am PT
Looks like a nice day in the mtns :) About that boot shot: looks like grivel G20's .. if so, how do you like them ?
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Oct 25, 2010 - 10:50am PT
Hey, I KNOW that Jim Olson!!


Yes, climbing with old guys is "usually" the best. And here's why:

1) They're experienced, and still kicking for a reason.

2) They don't rattle easy.

3) They're slow, (sometimes) and you can keep up.

4) They're ok with going down for the right reasons.

Climb on!!!
Alpinista55

Mountain climber
Portland, OR
  Oct 25, 2010 - 11:07am PT
Hey Nate -

Nice TR! And you couldn't find a better partner than Jim. He and I did a lot of climbing together back in the day. Yeah, I'm another one of those "old trad guys" you spoke of, although I do my trad in a vintage blue-water sailboat these days.

Jim and I have climbed together from JT and Red Rocks to the French Ridge on Mt. Huntington, and he was always a rock-solid partner on the climb. He also livened up every bivy, whether it was in a tent on a glacier deep in the Alaska Range, or in his old Datsun coupe at the end of a dirt road in the Nevada desert.

Last time I saw Jimmy was in the Cirque of the Towers in the Winds. He left his client bivouacked high up in the cirque, then walked down to the meadows with his umbrella in a rain storm to visit our camp.

It was nice to see pics of Jim today. It brought back great memories of that patented grin and goofy laugh I knew so well.

Later --

Jay Kerr
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
  Oct 25, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
Nice trip report, Nate. That old trad guy you're with dragged me up my first long, hard waterfall route about 25 years ago. I was under the impression that he did not do the winter climbing thing anymore, so congratulations for getting him out. Tell him that Brad (from Boulder) says hi.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Oct 25, 2010 - 12:41pm PT
Old, bold and maybe a little cold- well done!
micronut

Trad climber
  Oct 25, 2010 - 12:48pm PT
way to git after it!
Prod

Trad climber
  Oct 25, 2010 - 04:42pm PT
Nice stuff.

Prod.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
  Oct 26, 2010 - 12:03pm PT
great report
I love to hear about trips to areas that are not so famous.
and reminding me to be sure my crampons and tools are sharp before real winter reaches the Sierras.
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
  Oct 27, 2010 - 12:21pm PT
Hurray for old guys!

Looks cold...
Dirka

Trad climber
SF
  Oct 27, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
Looks chilly!
AKTrad

Mountain climber
AK
  Oct 27, 2010 - 03:14pm PT
Brrrrrr!!!! Looks colder than Alaska. But very cool, too.
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
  Oct 27, 2010 - 06:46pm PT
Excellent photos. Thanks for taking time to share your experience.

...quite an autumn in the Tetons, this year.
jogill

climber
Colorado
  Oct 27, 2010 - 06:55pm PT
Brings back some memories. Dave Dornan and I climbed the short but pleasant north face of Cloudveil back in 1956 or 57. Nice peak.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
  Oct 29, 2010 - 03:41pm PT
Awesome TR
Thanks!
Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
  Oct 29, 2010 - 06:28pm PT
Jaime the Honemaster.
setnei

Mountain climber
Warshington
  Nov 3, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
Great write up... Makes me homesick for WY.
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
  Nov 15, 2010 - 11:54am PT
Thanks!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Oct 16, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
Any good fall ice yet?
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Go
Gear Finder
Go