Trip Report
Closing out Spring, Starting Summer - Donner, Tuolumne, Pine Creek, and Red Rock - Photo Intensive!

by W.L.
Tuesday June 10, 2014 12:22am
[author's note: A little more verbiage from me on this one...sorry.]


Anyone who has been climbing long enough can tell you this vertical dance that we take part in can have its ups and downs. If you become too obsessed with the end - the objective, you can very quickly lose perspective and grow frustrated pretty quick.

All Spring I had my eyes on Cloud Tower at Red Rock and Shune's Buttress in Zion. Neither one happened, and for a while I was pretty damn bitter about that. Both didn't happen because of things beyond the realm of my control - weather for Shune's that sent us to J-Tree instead, and a combo of partner bailing and back re-injury (uncanny timing on that, literally after sneezing and injuring my back I had an IM from my Reno-based partner that he wouldn't be making it...)resulted in Cloud Tower not going down.

After both of those, I took a long hard look at climbing. I've always been the type to dive into anything I do head-first and take to it with a head-banger's intensity. In other activities, this has resulted in the performance I wanted, or me growing frustrated and moving on. When all of my obsession with these routes resulted in no tangible success, I started looking very hard at my balance in life. I have a rewarding career, an incredible long-term girlfriend, family close by, and a great network of friends. What I didn't want to do was become a single-dimensional individual who lost the rest due to obsession.

I can tend to get lost in the echo chamber that resides above my shoulders...

This reflection was happening as I was struggling with injury and the temperature window for these routes to happen was slamming shut. It seemed as though the training time I had put in was for naught, and at the time it felt as though I had sacrificed much for little reward. I still had committed to some climbing trips with friends for about the next month, and I will do anything in my power not to bail, so maybe I'll just see how the next month goes.


Begin Soundtrack


Then, my back felt good enough to climbing. I went top-rope soloing one day, just some moderate stuff after work, and it felt fantastic to move over stone. Maybe I'm not burnt out, or maybe I'm just feeding the addiction.



The next day after work Jon and I went out to the Coco Crag to climb some of the quality routes there. Again, another really fun couple of hours moving over stone


Jon cruising on the warm-up, Moon Where The Wind Blows

Rock climbing is fun! Lets do more...

At the end of the week I went back to my old stomping grounds in Reno for some business - I had meetings on Friday and Sunday, so Saturday I decided to use as an opportunity to return to where I learned to climb, Donner Summit.

A group of my friends and I went up to the Black Wall where we climbed One Hand Clapping's first pitch, Firecracker, New Moon, and Full Moon. We had a big group, didn't take many pics, but got a few cool shots of the zone.





Donner was a breath of fresh air. It felt good to be able to climb something quite difficult for me (Full Moon), even on toprope, after my back injury. The movement was just so damn good and the stone so great. Definitely was glad I took Ben's advice not to try to lead it, that gear looked like it would have been THIN and very difficult to place. Big falls on bad back probably wouldn't have been the best of ideas.

Back to Vegas for me...

Man, this rock climbing thing is REALLY fun...I want to get good at face climbing, since I suck at that...more TR soloing! Lets do more, harder...yeah!

And that's where the whole "diving head first" thing winds up biting me in the tail. I tweaked a pulley in my left middle finger that still isn't happy, and that was about 3 weeks ago. I make good life decisions, considering I had a trip for my birthday plotted to Tuolumne for Memorial Day Weekend (that weekend). I go climb a few pitches after work at the Black Corridor the following day, you know, to make sure all of the parts are workin' since I had a friend flying in for the trip to the Meadows, and others driving long and far to get there. Everything worked, thankfully.

Our first day on the Eastside we got established at our camp, and given the storms that week, decided that clipping some bolts would be fun out in the volcanic lands to allow the Meadows to dry out and warm up a touch. Al's Garage was our first stop...

My girlfriend Sam made the trip up with me, where we would meet up with Jeff who was down for the day from Reno and Ben who was down from Reno for the vast majority of the weekend. T-Pain was going to pick Aaron up at the airport in Vegas (he flew in from Portland) and ride up to meet us on the Eastside. Full blown convergence of lots of great friends, great climbing, and the absolutely incomparable Eastside. Yeah, that'll help ya get the stoke going again.



Views from Al's Garage
Views from Al's Garage
Credit: W.L.

Jeff, Ben, and I all took turns leading the lower angle 5.8 at the crag, then Ben hopped on the 5.8 to the right of it.

Ben leading a really fun 5.8
Ben leading a really fun 5.8
Credit: W.L.

After this I lead the 10b to the right of that, which in my opinion, was poorly bolted for a sport route. Just poor placement and clearly bolted on rappel. Definitely be sure you are solid at the grade before leading Triple Delight there.

The great reunion followed, with T-Pain delivering Aaron to us at the crag fresh from Portland. Aaron is another one of my good buddies, was a college roommate of mine, and was the one I climbed Epinephrine with last June (search for the Thrift Shoppin' Epinephrine TR). He hadn't climbed since then, but the guy is strong like bull and fun as hell t have around. This is where the shenanigans began among the group of partaking in sandbagging activities. Rocks in backpacks, chalk bags, and ropes getting clipped to haul loops to add some drag all occurred, some detected early, others not. Quality amusement ensued.

T-Pain then got his lead on a delightful 5.9 to the right of the cool arete at Al's Garage and we all took a lap after that...

T-Pain leading, Aaron belaying
T-Pain leading, Aaron belaying
Credit: W.L.

Glorious Sierra light lead us back to the campground where we had a fire, dinner, and told stories, half-truths, and slandered one another around the campfire.

Saturday morning it was time to head up 120 to Tuolumne...and of course, the Meadows always provide.

With a large group, varying ability levels, and Sam who doesn't climb with us, we kept things super casual and fun. First route up was Puppy Crack on Puppy Dome. Aaron hadn't lead since a pitch or two of Epi, but he is a crack (climbing) fiend, and thus he lead the route and I shot a few photos.

Just like riding a bike, right?
Just like riding a bike, right?
Credit: W.L.

It might be pronounced "yamming" with a soft J
It might be pronounced "yamming" with a soft J
Credit: W.L.

Aaron on Puppy Crack
Aaron on Puppy Crack
Credit: W.L.

Might that be...the climbing STOKE returning?!?!
Might that be...the climbing STOKE returning?!?!
Credit: W.L.

Travis lead it next, I ran a lap, and then it was time for the Tuolumne River Layback....

The Hang in Tuolumne simply cannot be beat.
The Hang in Tuolumne simply cannot be beat.
Credit: W.L.

Sam, Aaron, and T-Pain nappin' down by de reeva-side
Sam, Aaron, and T-Pain nappin' down by de reeva-side
Credit: W.L.

Once the gang awakened from lizard mode, we made the cruise along 120 down to climb in Olmsted Canyon. Except that there were >6 cars in the parking lot. Nope! We hung out at Olmsted Point for a little bit, trying to figure out what to do next. Threw the football around, had some amusing encounters, and took a few pictures...


Sam and I


Ben, Aaron, myself, T-Pain


That view back toward Tuolumne Meadows...

Somehow I didn't manage to take any pictures but we all went over and played on the Golfer's Route, a favorite of mine, in the meadows. It was super fun, I love that thing...such a cool climb!



Ben had to leave the next morning and I had been eyeballing Tideline in Oldmsted Canyon for a while. Every time I hiked up there, it seemed to be getting top-roped into submission by a small army. This time, we hike up and it is open.

Quickly we flake the rope, I rack up, and it's time...

Tideline
Tideline
Credit: W.L.

Me leading Tideline
Me leading Tideline
Credit: W.L.

Cool old growth Junipers in the 'hood
Cool old growth Junipers in the 'hood
Credit: W.L.

T-Pain gets his lap on
T-Pain gets his lap on
Credit: W.L.

Aaron following Tideline
Aaron following Tideline
Credit: W.L.

Aaron and Travis both follow Tideline. Aaron, who hasn't climbed much the last two years really...proceeds to cruise on Tideline. Damn impressive, wish I was that strong off the couch!

Speaking of "off the couch," Aaron decides to lead Ivory Tower, Center - a fine single pitch route. And cruises! Strong like bull!

Aaron on Ivory Tower, Center
Aaron on Ivory Tower, Center
Credit: W.L.

DAT LOOK
DAT LOOK
Credit: W.L.

Sam watching the spectacle
Sam watching the spectacle
Credit: W.L.



With each jam, it seemed like Aaron's stoke for climbing was coming back....and that got me stoked! Aaron was so stoked he even ran a toprope lap on the offwidth next door, and it was his idea...and he was stoked about it! I had already done the offwidth, and admittedly got my ass kicked on Tideline (thing is stout! and I'm not that good) so I opted not to embrace the wyde for once. It was super cool, too, to see these two women who were mega pumped on OW cruise on that thing - the footwork was so precise and the movement smooth.

As far as the climbing was concerned, that was the end of it for that trip. It was super fun and I was still holding out hope that a partner of mine would be up for Cloud Tower the following weekend. Didn't happen. Luckily, Jeff was in town for a bachelor party the following week, so we got to climb a few times after work.

On my birthday, after work I wanted to go climb The Fox - a super classic single pitch splitter crack here. Upon arrival at the base, there is another party TR soloing the route, so I figure I'll climb an adjacent route. I rack up, have Jeff flake the rope, then start searching for my shoes. Yep, definitely forgot my shoes. At this point I am livid with myself, but start thinking quickly about what route we could climb in approach shoes nearby that would be fun. I had climbed the first pitch of Physical Graffiti last year and remember it being fun, so Jeff and I head over there and have an approach shoe adventure.

#SELFIE
#SELFIE
Credit: W.L.

Jeff stoked!!!!
Jeff stoked!!!!
Credit: W.L.

Jeff on the scramble off
Jeff on the scramble off
Credit: W.L.

The descent from this route is quick and we were back at my house in no time. Jeff, Sam and I went over to my Dad's house for dinner to celebrate my birthday.

Friday after work we went out to the Velvet Wall to climb a route called "Spark Plug," a rather stout but totally classic 10- crack.

WL leading Spark Plug
WL leading Spark Plug
Credit: W.L.

WL heading into the incredible varnish up high
WL heading into the incredible varnish up high
Credit: W.L.

Looking up-canyon
Looking up-canyon
Credit: W.L.

Black Velvet canyon always amazes me. It was over 100 degrees in town that day and it was very pleasant at the base of the wall. The breeze was fantastic and the only bad part of the experience was, as always in the summer, the approach. Luckily we ran into friends and made some new ones in the shade on the approach. We had the reproach to ourselves and had beverages in the cooler at the truck for rapid rehydration and sunset watching...

Jeff, quite excited
Jeff, quite excited
Credit: W.L.

Sunsets out at Black Velvet are awesome
Sunsets out at Black Velvet are awesome
Credit: W.L.

Jeff left town the following day and I had one more climbing trip planned, celebrating my buddy Shane's birthday in Tahquitz the following weekend. The feeling of burning out was starting to come back again so I decided to take most of the following week off of climbing. Got out one day after work, but that's it...

WL leading Money Shark
WL leading Money Shark
Credit: W.L.

Temps for Tahquitz were looking warm and Shane wanted to celebrate his birthday somewhere new - and temps were looking great in the higher elevations near Bishop. Shane was going to be bringing his 67 year old father with on the trip, who got him into climbing. "Cool!" I thought, however, what would we be able to take his dad up? Shane said his dad could get up 5.9, so that could still be fun, I thought. Somehow the two brain cells absently floating around in my head came up with a few different ideas. We would hop on the first pitch of the John Fischer Memorial Rotue in Pine Creek and see how Randy, Shane's dad, does. If he does well, we'll do the first four pitches. If not, we can bail and head on to easier things in the neighborhood.



Randy
Randy
Credit: W.L.

Shane leading P1 of the JFMR (5.10a), WL belaying.
Shane leading P1 of the JFMR (5.10a), WL belaying.
Credit: W.L.

Randy cruising up P1
Randy cruising up P1
Credit: W.L.

A party of strong Bishop locals arrived at the base, we let them pass and they were super nice and great company. Party of three is slow and I was glad these ladies linked the first two pitches so passing went quicker. Very courteous and nice folks, this sport attracts great people.

View from the driver's seat - post-crux on P4 (.10c), W.L.'s lead
View from the driver's seat - post-crux on P4 (.10c), W.L.'s lead
Credit: W.L.

Shane approaching the crux of the route
Shane approaching the crux of the route
Credit: W.L.

Randy on the crux pitch
Randy on the crux pitch
Credit: W.L.

#SELFIE
#SELFIE
Credit: W.L.

Shane stoked at the belay
Shane stoked at the belay
Credit: W.L.

The view from here never gets old to me
The view from here never gets old to me
Credit: W.L.

Randy, STOKED!!!
Randy, STOKED!!!
Credit: W.L.

Shane starting the spectacular 5.10 slab traverse
Shane starting the spectacular 5.10 slab traverse
Credit: W.L.

Shane completing the traverse and making the moves into the seam/crack
Shane completing the traverse and making the moves into the seam/crack
Credit: W.L.

Randy said this was one of his favorite pitches of the trip
Randy said this was one of his favorite pitches of the trip
Credit: W.L.

Once we finished the fourth pitch, we decided to rap, get some water, and head to the Lamb Canyon Wall. The first 4 of that route are my favorite, having done the other 3 several years ago. About a year ago I was fixated on leading a route on the Lamb Canyon Wall called "Moment of Zen." The pictures of it on Mountain Project appeared to fit the name. Randy approached with us but opted not to climb this one, so it was just Shane and I. Needless to say, after leading it, I was glad it was not my first 5.11 route as it was sustained, technical, and the gear was small but solid. Incredible climb.

The view from atop the approach pitch for Moment of Zen
The view from atop the approach pitch for Moment of Zen
Credit: W.L.

WL leading Moment of Zen
WL leading Moment of Zen
Credit: W.L.

Anyone who thinks Pine Creek grades are soft should give that thing a lap. Especially if you are short. Absolutely fantastic route though...the position, rock quality, movement, and variety are phenomenal.

Lifestyle
Lifestyle
Credit: W.L.

Our final morning in town we went up the hill to Cardinal Pinnacle. Randy wasn't feelin' it, so back to Pine Creek we went to lap a personal favorite of mine - Strikeslip's first pitch (5.9) into Three Hour Arete (5.10c). Well-protected, engaging climbing on fantastic stone in an incredible position? If that didn't get my stoked cranked to 11, not sure what would...

Shane leading Strikeslip
Shane leading Strikeslip
Credit: W.L.

Shane following P2
Shane following P2
Credit: W.L.

Randy following P2
Randy following P2
Credit: W.L.

Shane enjoying the position on P3 - and not having to sing Soft Kitty!
Shane enjoying the position on P3 - and not having to sing Soft Kitty!
Credit: W.L.

Randy hung out and enjoyed the views from the ledge at the top of P3. He thought P3 might be his favorite pitch of the day, his son (Shane for those of you keeping track at home) agreed. I kept myself amused by forgetting half of the draws for the final pitch, DOH!

WL leading P4 - the fun 10c crux pitch
WL leading P4 - the fun 10c crux pitch
Credit: W.L.


Man, rock climbing is really fun. When can I escape again? Maybe I should find a partner for after work tomorrow, or go toprope soloing...

Balance. I have to find a balance, but where exactly that resides I am not sure. I'll find it, and I have dedicated myself to more or less being able to coming closer to achieving it, but for now I'll take what I can get...and train like a madman this summer for a few big climbs this summer and hopefully starting off the Fall climbing season with trips up Cloud Tower and Shune's Buttress. Maybe.

If nothing else, this past month has shown me how much joy can be derived from helping others get stoked, and just generally going out and having a good time and making sure everyone else is too. Forget the numbers, forget the ego, just go out, enjoy the process and have fun - the rest falls into place anyway if you do just that. It never was about the end anyway, it was always about the struggle to get there...


Thank you for reading, this thing took a lot of work. Sorry for the poor writing quality, as I am quite tired right now.

  Trip Report Views: 1,632
W.L.
About the Author
W.L. is a climber from Loxahatchee, FL who now resides in the desert.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Jun 10, 2014 - 01:11am PT
Thanks WL!

That was fun, maybe my favorite TR of yours to date.

Quality shet.

Pine creek multi looks rad too, I'd never heard of any of those routes and they all look fantastic.

You've got a great jump off point there in LV good to see you take advantage of it!
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Jun 10, 2014 - 03:21am PT
Outstanding
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  Jun 10, 2014 - 06:52am PT
Lots of fun there, TFPU.
lars
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
  Jun 10, 2014 - 09:41pm PT
wooot, good stuff. thanks for sharing man.
eKat

Trad climber
  Jun 10, 2014 - 07:12am PT
Me ole stompin' grounds. . . NICE!

TFPU!
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Jun 10, 2014 - 07:18am PT
Cool TR,
TFPU
Tad
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jun 10, 2014 - 07:42am PT
Burchey - The Bishop locals broke that rule a long time ago, by putting up sweet descriptions and pics on the interweb! You might be thinking of another short, stocky Nevadan with a low IQ and a proclivity toward gangsta rap. Not sure what happened to that guy.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jun 10, 2014 - 07:49am PT
Thanks!

Now it's time to go high and escape the heat.
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Jun 10, 2014 - 08:01am PT
Great report WL! TFPU. I love the soundtracks. Olmsted Canyon just went on the tic list. See you up there.

Eastsidaz come out to play!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jun 10, 2014 - 08:28am PT
Yeah getting frustrated is easy when things you want to do don't happen like they would in a perfect world. I guess it is important to remember that climbing is challenging and if it was easy, we wouldn't like it as much. For example, last weekend a friend and I did a 3 hour approach to finish a line I started, but my dumbass forgot the drill bit. Easy to get frustrated, but we chose to climb some other good pitches instead.

Kudos to Aaron and T-pain for picking your ass up! Impressive!! :)

Tideline looks sick!

Try Rites of Spring in Pine Creek next time. It is pretty good, but my favorite crack climb on the east side is Crack Kingdom on Cardinal...and maybe Cucumbers/West Face. Freaking Cardinal Pinnacle rocks. If you want a sick finger crack, Espresso Crack is a must. Beefy fingers help.

W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jun 10, 2014 - 10:33am PT
Thanks for the nice comments and for reading, guys!

Donini - agreed. Been dreaming of the Hulk, lines on Merriam Peak, and finding ways to get up to the Whitney Zone legally this summer. Climbing High Sierra routes was the whole reason I even got into rock climbing, but have recently gotten more stoked on climbing than walking to climb. Sometimes, though, you just need a good walk...or talus hop.

V - Agreed on the "if it were easy..." bit (and no pun intended re: drill bit forgetting), the part that frustrated me was that it wasn't my own individual failure of training, or skill, or fitness that caused it. That was the hardest part for me to accept. I can accept when I have blown it, and can work accordingly to rectify whichever weakness was at fault. Can't sweat the things you can't control, gotta make the best of it.

LOL, yeah, T-Pain and Aaron are both strong like bull to lift my heavy ass up! They must work out or somethin' ;-)

Tideline is rad, go do it next time you go over the hill. Great spot to hang for sunset, with views across canyon. Lord Caffeine is another good one up there you would thoroughly enjoy, V. Classics!

Rites has been on the list for a long time, as have the lines on Cardinal. Hopefully I can get up there this summer and have a Cardinal Craggin' day and link up a bunch of classic pitches up there. Really want to check out that finger crack pitch on The Prow...looks fantastic.

Beefy fingers for Espresso Crack? Now yer talking my fat-fingered language...that thing is a huge WANT. More of a Spring/Fall spot though, eh?

Ed H - Glad you enjoyed the soundtrack! Little known fact, I ALWAYS play that Snoop/Eastsidaz track before heading to the Eastside. Olmsted is rad! Go climb Ivory Tower Center, Tideline, and Lord Caffeine. You will be stoked!
Jon Clark

climber
philadelphia
  Jun 10, 2014 - 01:10pm PT
Nice TR, enjoyed reading it. We met and chatted as you were approaching BV Wall and we were heading out. Nice to meet you.

I'd get on Sheila and Pratt's Crack (if you haven't already done them) before Rites of Spring. Rites is good, but I thought a bit overhyped.

Espresso Crack is one of the finest finger cracks I've climbed. Yellow to red aliens in the biz with the occassional .75 camalot pod for your feet. It's starting to be get hot down there, but the climb gets afternoon shade.

Just about everything on Cardinal Pinnacle is good.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Jun 10, 2014 - 02:14pm PT
Hey! Wtf man! What are you doing??? Didn't you get banned for posting climbing content?? And here you go.. Doing it again??? Lol


The part that frustrated me was that it wasn't my own individual failure of training, or skill, or fitness that caused it.

Exactly! Next time when things are really clicking and you have a good partner situation where you're getting a lot accomplished and your health is good you will truly appreciate it.

Great tr.

Thanks
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jun 10, 2014 - 03:22pm PT
Jon! It was fantastic getting to meet you guys on your way out and I hope ya'll had a great rest of your trip. Really want to get on those lines, maybe next time I'm in the 'hood. Been on the list for a while, so maybe I just need to dedicate a day to cragging right there.

Mike -



Sorry for the climbing content, brah! You are correct insomuch that it will be that much more rewarding once I am healthy and can finally execute my plans. Hopefully this Fall...
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Jun 10, 2014 - 03:40pm PT
Sick! Made it almost all the way through on the Fleet Foxes, last route was quiet.
Good one WL.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 10, 2014 - 04:51pm PT
Very good quality writing, seriously ,
Don't self deprecate too much!!!
I'm glad you are back!!!!

Especially wit the whit boyz hippity hop!!!!
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
  Jun 10, 2014 - 06:05pm PT
Wow. The psych factory has been working overtime. Well done.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Old West Crackramento
  Jun 10, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
Content. So lame. Going to report this.

Psyche!!!!
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
  Jun 10, 2014 - 08:19pm PT
BTW: That shot at Olmstead Point of you, Ben and the crew is classic!
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
  Jun 10, 2014 - 08:30pm PT
Nice! I needed climbing stoke right now, thanks!!!
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
  Jun 10, 2014 - 11:08pm PT
Awesome and diverse TR WL. Digging the music. Tideline's a proud lead, nice work! Pretty stout line. I thought Lord Caffeine was probably as hard. TFPU
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jun 11, 2014 - 09:39am PT
Thanks Jefe!

Ezra - Could have been much better, but was exhausted at the end of a long day and decided to just power through it. I'm glad to be "back" and posting dat hip hop again.

Roger - The psyche must flow!!!!!

Jeebs - Jebus the Rat. wat.

briham - Hope yer gettin stoked!

Laine - Thanks man, Tideline was quite stout for the grade (to me). LC felt quite a bit easier to me but still not 10d, and way more awkward. A route of similar difficulty level to Tideline is Moment of Zen. Except that thing is crazy technical, and significantly longer.

I guess I've got my granite stoke on now!

Thanks for reading everyone!
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
  Jun 11, 2014 - 10:02am PT
Good to know, I really want to do Moment of Zen next time I'm in PC. Have you done Chips Off the Ol Block? Pretty fun climbing on that. Those guys are putting up some quality routes over there.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Jun 11, 2014 - 10:14am PT
Killer TR WL. I've read it twice there is sooo much in it! You continue to be one of my consistant inspirations to just get out there. Thanks for continuing to post these TR's up!
alina

Trad climber
CA
  Jun 11, 2014 - 01:39pm PT
Thanks for posting up. I like reading a TR that has a good internal dialogue pulling the pictures along. Your writing is resonating with many of us, I think.
With me it's always about managing expectations and dealing with the ego.
In some ways, climbing and similar pursuits are a very selfish, or maybe self-centered, endeavour. Too much thinking about yourself and what you want at this very moment is always going to get you in trouble. Like you mentioned, the best cure I found for burn-out and frustration is taking somebody out and teaching, giving back to the climbing community, not thinking solely about yourself for a bit.
Macronut

Trad climber
Fresno, Ca
  Jun 11, 2014 - 02:34pm PT
Just got back from climbing myself and jsut not quite satisfied myself. Some well needed inspiration. May just need to check out Pine Creek. Thanks for the read.
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jun 12, 2014 - 10:48am PT
Laine - Go do Moment of Zen!!! Seriously awesome. Chips Off The Block ( http://www.supertopo.com/tr/A-couple-days-on-the-Eastside-and-the-livins-easy/t11497n.html ) is super fun. I have done that one twice, very fun both times. Those guys are putting up a ton of quality stuff, I really want to go check out Vic's route Blindspot.

skcredic - this was one I almost split into two just because there was so much. Maybe the quality would have been better? Who knows. There wasn't really a marquee route we did or anything like that to allow me to focus on that for the duration of the writing, so when in doubt pictures and stoke rule.

alina - Giving back and just plain having fun is what will bring the stoke back. As soon as climbing feels like a chore, it's time to step back and figure out what the problem is. My problem is I am very good at finding a goal and dialing in exactly what would, without life happening, get me to the exact point I need to be able to do that. It's just the whole life happening thing that I tend to struggle with...

Macronut - thank you for reading! Pine Creek is pretty damn rad. Get inspired, get stoked, and get after it!
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