Trip Report
Climbing a classic with three classics; Moro Rock in Sequoia
Monday April 8, 2013 12:52am


The Classic Climb

Credit: limpingcrab
The South Face of Moro Rock follows the, well, south face of Moro Rock. It starts on the buttress in the lower right of the picture and kind of follows the sun/shade line all the way up. It's a good ol' fashioned long, fun, clean route with great views! It goes at 5.7 in theory, but there are interesting runouts and it has a history of mini-epics, so beware.

The Classic Climbers

Credit: limpingcrab
Dan Dillinges
If you've heard of the new crag getting developed in Sequoia National Park called Danland, meet Dan. He didn't choose the name, but it stuck. He's former YOSAR, a retired ranger, and spends more time on the rock than anyone I know. Really nice guy, loves to get out and climb, and has done a lot of work for the climbing community up at Danland.

Credit: Radish
Larry Zulim
Larry is one of the most stoked climbers ever. It doesn't matter if you've just top-roped your first 5.6 or are topping out on a grade VI first ascent, he will be cheering you on and the first one to congratulate your accomplishment. Not to mention he was climbing before I was born and is still climbing super hard. I don't mean hard for a guy in his sixties, I mean I watched him work on the FFA of a 5.12a finger crack at Danland just a few days ago. He made it, but took a fall, and by his high standards it doesn't count. I'm glad I don't have those standards or it would mean I've hardly climbed anything!

Credit: limpingcrab
Rene' Ardesch
Rene' is like the historian, bookkeeper and info source for all things Sequoia Kings Canyon. If you're interested in the climbing history around here, or just want some good pictures and stories, he periodically updates a blog at: http://southernsierraclimber.blogspot.com/ Rene' is mellow, really nice, and you can tell he loves to be in the mountains no matter what he's doing.

Credit: limpingcrab

Daniel Jeffcoach (me)
I was born so beautiful that I never learned social skills.

The Day In Photographs

Credit: limpingcrab
The approach is a descent around the East face of Moro and along the bottom. Once you see this yellow wall, you're close and it's time to climb some manzanita.

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Great morning, great views, great way to start the day!

Credit: limpingcrab
Dan leads up the cracks on p1. The crux according to some. There's an awkward transfer from one crack to the next.

Credit: limpingcrab
The rock is warm, the skies are blue, and the jams are solid on pitch one, this is what climbing is all about!

Credit: limpingcrab
Bad picture, but there are the cursed castle rocks. Soon...

Credit: limpingcrab
The top of pitch two is easy, but a fall would be a little uncomfortable for the follower

Credit: limpingcrab
Rene' cruising pitch two. 5.6 is probably a lot harder with a pack full of extra gear from four people! I love that pitch, a cool 5.6 open book with a little finger crack in the corner.

Credit: limpingcrab
Here comes the fog on jungle ledge!

Credit: limpingcrab
Dan spotting Larry for the unroped boulder problem, but it's worth it to avoid some bushes and yucca.

Credit: limpingcrab
Larry gets ready for the crux. "where do I go?" "up into the fog, then make a left." Climbing giant chicken heads (more like dog heads) to an airy crack traverse above a roof make this pitch a classic.


Here's a short clip Rene' shot to show the conditions. That's the rough thing about California, about once a year you might actually have to climb when it's not sunny!

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Beautiful views at the top of pitch five on Torre Central del Paine, I mean Moro Rock. Pitch five follows two crack systems in a sort of gully and is just plain fun.

Credit: limpingcrab
It got a little wet and a little chilly at the only bolted belay.

Credit: limpingcrab
Wait a second! All these guys have been climbing longer than I've been alive and I end up leading the wet 60ft slab runout!?

Credit: limpingcrab
Visibility is low and stoke is high on pitch 6! After the runout slab and a tiny piece of bad pro there's an exposed step across into this odd corner feature.

Credit: limpingcrab
Rene' about to take us the last 70m to the top

Credit: limpingcrab
The group ready to third class our way out of here

Credit: limpingcrab
Is it still third class if it's exposed and kinda freaky?

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Unique views of giant sequoias and the great western divide are the reward for putting up with some nasty weather.

Credit: Radish
Great day with great guys! I think I ruined this picture though



The descent is about 5 minutes of stairs, which makes topping out on Moro one of my favorite summits! I had an awesome day climbing, and I got the chance to learn a lot from guys that started climbing before I could wipe myself. 7 hours for 7 pitches was pretty decent for a party of 4 in the fog.

I don't think these pics do the South Face of Moro justice, it's a really good, committing route for its grade. Go check it out if you get a chance, you won't regret it. Well, unless you're like the group last week that got stuck overnight, left all their gear bailing, and had to walk back up the approach gully. As long as you don't do that, you won't regret it!









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limpingcrab
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Comments
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Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Apr 8, 2013 - 01:43am PT
Nice report. Happy we both had to climb in cloudy weather this weekend. Means it will be sunny for the rest of the year! Or at least till the end of this month, I hope!

PS: saw Tom today in el cap meadow.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Author's Reply  Apr 8, 2013 - 01:53am PT
I hope you're right!

Ya, Tom and I both had the same thought after Friday: let's not climb Moro anymore this weekend.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Apr 8, 2013 - 03:18am PT
cool!

neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Apr 8, 2013 - 05:48am PT
hey there say, limpingcrab...

thanks for the nice share...

two pics, showed, and they were very nice...
missed the others, so far, though...


:)

wow, NOW they came in...

and when you FOG wow, you REALLY had fog, :O


the picture, though not from a climber's desire, are great from
foggy art perspective, :))
sullly

Gym climber
  Apr 8, 2013 - 07:22am PT
Like the progression of the climb and the fog. Funny expressions too.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Apr 8, 2013 - 07:37am PT
Thanks for the TR, looks like an interesting route.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Apr 8, 2013 - 11:00am PT
Way to get gnarly out there Daniel!


This looks all Chamonix!!! Rad.

Credit: micronut
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Apr 8, 2013 - 11:01am PT
Really fun TR!

Good climbing and even better company.

I don't know the rest of your crew but Larry is a prince of a man. Always has been.

Thanks for sharing the day with us
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Apr 8, 2013 - 11:03am PT
Way to hang in there! The clouds give the photos real character.
Gene

climber
  Apr 8, 2013 - 11:09am PT
I was born so beautiful that I never learned social skills.


Best line of the report.

g
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Apr 8, 2013 - 11:10am PT
Homeschooler.
rincon

Trad climber
Coarsegold
  Apr 8, 2013 - 11:14am PT
Looks like fun, tfpu!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Apr 8, 2013 - 11:50am PT
Nice...

Ya made good time, too.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Author's Reply  Apr 8, 2013 - 11:56am PT
homeschooler

Lol! Ok, THAT might explain the social skills. Starting public school in 3rd grade was probably a little too late for me
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Apr 8, 2013 - 12:00pm PT
ZULIM ALERT!!

Sweetness. Well done gang!
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
  Apr 8, 2013 - 12:06pm PT
Clouds in California? What's up.
Great report, I'm amazed at how many venues you have down there that I have never heard of!
ec

climber
ca
  Apr 8, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
Nice TR.

David Hickey took me to Moro for the first time BITD. By the time we got only a short way up the west face we were really socked in by the Tule Fog. Not knowing where we were headed, I just climbed what features were in front of me, sorta like night aid climbing, however free. To this day, I couldn't show you where we went. Maybe David could.

 ec
Tork

climber
Yosemite
  Apr 8, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
Thanks, brings back old times.

I wanna hear more about the new area?? Danland?
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Author's Reply  Apr 8, 2013 - 02:24pm PT
I wanna hear more about the new area?? Danland?

It's pretty sweet. It will be a great year-round crag for Visalia area climbers and anyone else who wants to climb something warm and west facing in the Winter. Sort of like Tollhouse, but instead of clean slab it's steep cracks. Routes are from 1-3 pitches and several of the longer ones have a little bit of aid, like taking a sample of a Yosemite crag before there were any pin scars. I think there are a little over 50 pitches so far with some 4 and 5 star classics.

Dan has made a climbers trail, and because he's a former ranger and it's within the park he used nothing but foot dragging. You couldn't tell of you saw it, it looks like a well graded national park trail and takes about 20-40 minutes depending on what route you want to get to. Any bolts present were placed on lead, by hand, and are bomber 3/8x2.5" or better (maybe a quarter incher or two for things like directionals).

It's not super secritive or anything, but because there are projects going on and a lot of gear stashed I don't want to put the location on the internet. Myself or anyone who has climbed there will likely be happy to take anyone climbing up there for a day. I think once the low hanging fruit has been plucked a small online guide will be made public to hopefully keep the trail going and the cracks clean.

Here's a couple samples

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Jammies, beautiful 5.8+ crack/lieback


Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Aces High, probably low 5.10 and awesome up until the finger crack, then 5.12a and impossible (for me) above.


Lots more up there but I've only brought my camera twice. Race Crack makes me drool
Tork

climber
Yosemite
  Apr 8, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
Ok, thanks! When we goin?
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
  Apr 8, 2013 - 05:55pm PT
Hell Yea!! Nice Trip Report Daniel. This was the kind of adventure that carries me through the week and has me wanting more! Can't wait till Friday. Good times at Danland too. I'm glad we've been going up there and getting in on some pioneer times!
Anyone wanting to go up to the East Side Routes of Moro has till April 18th when the Peregrine Falcon Closure goes into effect till August 1st. This includes the South Face Route.
craig mo

Trad climber
L.A. Ca.
  Apr 8, 2013 - 06:29pm PT
Thanks
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Apr 8, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
Bump
David D.

Trad climber
California
  Apr 9, 2013 - 02:25am PT
Awesome TR! TFPU.
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Apr 9, 2013 - 09:01am PT
Super sweet TR, Limping Crab! TFPU!!! When that fog rolls in, it's Otherworldly out there. When we hiked in from BearPaw Meadow the last time, it got all foggy like that. Whoa. Ethereal.
Digging the Danland stuff, too. Man, I wish I lived closer.
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California
  Apr 9, 2013 - 09:23am PT
I love this TR! Thanks for sharing... {still smiling}

~peace
crazy horse

Trad climber
fresno, ca
  Apr 9, 2013 - 05:09pm PT
Nice TR guys!! way to keep the climbing going through winter!!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Apr 9, 2013 - 05:32pm PT
Very well done and documented.

Wait a second! All these guys have been climbing longer than I've been alive and I end up leading the wet 60ft slab runout!?

As someone who's in his 46th year of climbing, I like to think there's a reason I've survived so long!

Thanks for a wonderful TR.

John
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 9, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
Wait a second! All these guys have been climbing longer than I've been alive and I end up leading the wet 60ft slab runout!?

Looks like they learned sumthin.....:)

Thanks for a great TR!
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