Trip Report
Climbing Martha on Mt. Lady Washington, May 17, 2008
Wednesday May 21, 2008 5:15pm
After rescheduling the trip a few times over the preceding months due to weather and other concerns, Tracy and I settled on doing the snow and ice route called Martha on Mt. Lady Washington.



Looking at the Diamond from just below Chasm Lake.



The Diamond of Long's Peak is the the back end of the cirque that contains Chasm Lake. To the right as you look into the cirque is a rocky ridge full of blocky terraces of rock and very little else. Cleaved into the side of this rock wall is a deep gully that is this climb. The shadow to the far left is the gully.


Tracy at the entrance of the gully.


Gearing up. We noticed footprints in front of us and started to hear voices.


The first part is wide, easy snow with a tad of ice at the bottom. No real need for much pro. We place some pickets and cams as needed for belays.


We swing leads and start to gain on the people above us.



Smiles on the way.


Come on. This is SERIOUS.


Logjam at the ice pitch! Tracy realizes that she knows some of the people above us. Later I find out my friend Charles had loaned them some gear as well. Small world, of course, and the usual case. Despite the leader before us claiming to be new to leading ice, he dispensed with the pitch quickly and protected it well.


Final snow pitch.


Looking East from the top of the gully.


We eat chocolates and chat with our new compadres and decide on a descent route.


Hey, a summit shot of both of us that doesn't look like we used a self timer.


We settle on going down the back side and joining the Longs Peak trail. The snow is perfect for that, keeping us out of falling under the many boulders on the way down the ridge.


Ha! Just a few, grueling miles to hike back to the car with some refreshing post-holing.


The Sun got both of us a bit, with Tracy getting snow blindness from not having sun glasses and not wearing her ski goggles as they were too bulky. I sunburned under my nostrils, which is always a good reminder of a fun day out.


















  Trip Report Views: 608
stich
About the Author
stich is a trad climber from Colorado Springs, Colorado.

Comments
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Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
  May 21, 2008 - 05:26pm PT
So that's the back story on the eye trauma! From the first picture, I wanted to warn her.

Nice photos, looks like a cool route.
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Author's Reply  May 21, 2008 - 05:36pm PT
It's technically not that difficult, with the ice pitch being less than 25 feet. Some icy rock ramps earlier comprised what there was of mixed terrain. I liked digging around for hidden cracks for cams. When it looked like no pro was available, I could sometimes find great splitter cracks just under some snow.
Ouch!

climber
  May 21, 2008 - 06:16pm PT
Tim's having trouble holding on to his parts again.



caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
  May 21, 2008 - 06:19pm PT
Thanks for posting the great photos stich, looks like a great time out there!
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Author's Reply  May 21, 2008 - 07:24pm PT
If you only knew how spot on that is, Ouch. But I'm going to make a good example for the kiddo on how not to do a ton of stuff, so it's all good.
Ezra

Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
  May 21, 2008 - 08:37pm PT
Nice job Y'all!
-e
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
  May 21, 2008 - 09:44pm PT
Soooooo Tim.... Can you explain just why you got into an alpine gully behind and underneath another party?

Seems like rolling a set of loaded dice. Glad you and Tracy made it out okay.

Mal
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Author's Reply  May 21, 2008 - 10:02pm PT
Tar and I had a long talk about all sorts of stuff today, including that point Mal. One thing I assumed we could do was set up belays well to the side of any rock/ice/debris falling down the middle of the chute, and that we did. But a major snow slide would have been bad.
Pewf

climber
Gunnison
  May 21, 2008 - 10:10pm PT
Thanks for the report and great photos guys! I hope that your under-nostrils don't peel too much Tim because that's just going to look like dried up boogers falling out of your nose.
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Author's Reply  May 27, 2008 - 02:35pm PT
I really liked your Fisher Towers TR, Riley. If only you and I could be in more than one place at the same time, we could have done both things simultaneously.

Pewf, the peeling skin under the nose took three days to resolve itself, which wasn't soon enough. Nothing like visiting the parents with both of you looking like you tried to kiss a blow torch. Zinc oxide for the lips is on the equipment list, as are a better pair of sunglasses to wrap around the eyes.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
  May 27, 2008 - 05:45pm PT
I went nowhere this weekend but am hoping some of you Coloradans did, and are planning to post another sunburned TR.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
  May 27, 2008 - 05:56pm PT
outstanding stich - way cool looking climb, nice pix too -
thank you for posting!
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