Trip Report
California Central Coast Pictorial: Part 3 Figueroa Mountain (last in 3 parts)
Wednesday December 23, 2009 12:11am
California Central Coast Pictorial: Part 3 Figueroa Mountain

A few years back one time local Steve Edwards said he saw some rocks above Lake Cachuma and that was enough to send Brandon Thau and I searching for an entire day. We found the Fin, put up 3 routes, and then I came back solo and started hiking. I found the crag but thought it was choss. Then I went back with Ken Klis and over the next 2 years about two dozen routes went up. Cracks, Trs, and a couple sport routes. We tried to minimize our impact by leaving a lot of routes as Trs. We hope it stays that way. Climbing here during spring is amazing, and I’ve even climbed here while it was snowing. Pretty unique for the Central Coast. PM me if you’re interested in the small color guide.

Credit: Slater
This is the Fin. The 5.6 arete Nine Months was put up while both our wives were 9 months pregnant. We love our women! The whole blade of rock is only 3' thick.

Credit: Slater
This is another shot of the Fin.

Credit: Slater
Ken on Wildflower Tower. The original tower ascent was done via a rope trick, throwing a string and rock over the summit and then tying a rope on and dragging it over. Nice but way sketchy. If the rope rolled, so did you!

Credit: Slater
Wildflower Tower in the fog. The Needle and Haystack Wall are behind it.

Credit: Slater
Ken Klis and me on summit of Wildflower Tower.

Credit: Slater
How many can you get on top?

Credit: Slater
The famous ploe cam.

Credit: Slater
Aquarius is the easiest way up at 5.8. Don’t blow the 2nd clip.

Credit: Slater
Brian Utterback on the OW Fat Badass 5.8. He has cleared the OW and roof and is on the upper face.

Credit: Slater
Utterback on Fig Picker 5.6. A short line to a cool summit.

Credit: Slater
Utterback on Daddy’s Girl 5.8. A longer line to the same cool summit.

Credit: Slater
Ken on the .10 arete.

Credit: Slater
Chris on Pine Cone Alley 5.9 on Hidden Dome.

Credit: Slater
Jon Hanlon on Cactus Club 5.7. Fun face to crack. Mind the Yucca.

Credit: Slater
Hanlon on the classic Hands Down 5.8. Hands down the best face route at Fig. It'd be good anywhere.

Credit: Slater
Hanlon on Map to Outerspace 5.8. What's great about Fig is the fact that there are some good cracks.

Credit: Slater
The popular Pine Cone Alley on Hidden Dome.

Credit: Slater
Klis on Glory Daze .11a on Hidden Dome. I climbed here once and it started to snow. You could still see the ocean and the islands. Trippy...

Credit: Slater
Kristi Hall on Pine Cone Alley.

Well, there you have it, an insider's tour of the Central Coast. Hope you get some this holiday season,

cheers, Tom

  Trip Report Views: 3,691
Slater
About the Author
Slater is a trad climber from Central Coast and co-author of "California Road Trip - Climber's Guide to Northern California"

Comments
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Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Dec 23, 2009 - 11:20am PT
A musical trip report here on the same area. Credit Sara Heinrich

cf. http://www.saraheinrichs.com/mtfig/

Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Author's Reply  Dec 23, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
yeah! I saw that, totally creative! My friend Matt went with her. Fig rocks.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Dec 25, 2009 - 03:26am PT
wow! total lost sister to Pinns for sure. nice find!
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Dec 28, 2009 - 11:36am PT
Looks like fun !
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
  Dec 29, 2009 - 05:58pm PT
pretty cool lookin' haunts you've got there....



great TR
crossman04

Trad climber
Ventura, CA
  Jan 2, 2010 - 06:39am PT
great three part series Tom! I'm moving up to SLO in a few months and I'm glad to see the climbing community so active up there. I'm excited to get more familiar with the local climbing areas. Thanks for the TR :)
jfailing

Trad climber
PDX, North Slope, The Open Road
  Jan 11, 2010 - 09:42am PT
That rock looks like total schist... ha! Sweet TR
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Author's Reply  Mar 7, 2014 - 12:46am PT
Ah I gotta get back out on the local rock! Been too long!
Ken, warm up the sheep...
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Mar 7, 2014 - 12:12pm PT
Sweet TR series! Thanks!
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Mar 9, 2014 - 08:48pm PT
where the hell is this place? directions to get there???
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Mar 9, 2014 - 09:06pm PT
nice choss!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Mar 10, 2014 - 12:46pm PT
video trip report of just about all the same routes, years later...

cf. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dsODLcIjGQ&list=UUN_xIr0E7H7dYop4ph3ziBg
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