Trip Report
Bulging Puke l
Saturday May 11, 2019 2:35pm
Dylan Bogdon and I climbed this route in late April 2019, it was pretty western, we had to clean dirt and moss out of a lot of the cracks to place gear. I donít think this route has been climbed very much. Dylan lead the 1st, wet and dirty A2. I lead the 2nd, a bolt ladder with 4 placements. We hung my D4 Portaledge and had some bud light and honey whiskey. Dylan lead the 3rd, a full pitch of 5.7 then I lead the 4th. 5.8 then dirty A2. Dylan fixed the 5th, kind of sketchy off of Angel ledge, some wet free climbing then a big hook before getting a cam in. He rapped back down to Angel ledge and we slept on the ledge, it was kinda wet. Dylan jugged the haul line in the morning and hauled while I cleaned. I lead the 6th, C1 up to a bolt then I put a cam behind the top of the pillar, I moved to the right and put another cam in, the top 2 feet of the block broke and slide about 3 inches, my cams popped out and somehow I grabbed the crack and didnít fall, quick as a cat for once. We should have trundled it but where afraid it would take out the bolts on the second pitch. Itís just sitting there now, be carefu!!! The A3 above the pillar was just above a ledge, beaks stoppers and cams at the top, it was expanding at the top of the pitch. Dylan lead the 7th, splitter C1 then 7 beaks in arrow to the anchors. We set up the D4 ledge, having to ration the bud light now. I lead the 8th, more dirty cracks then the ceiling, pretty wild, the bags where 20 feet from the cliff when I haule!!! Thatís more like it. Dylan lead the 9th then I lead the 10th. We hung the ledge for our 4th bivi. Dylan lead the 11th 5 beaks in a row, then some C1, I lead the top pitch, 5.6 offwidth then some wet 5.6 friction, then the 2nd A3 section, above another ledge, then a blind beak placement above the bolt at the top of the crack. I hauled off the tree then we hiked down the north dome gulley for a hog heaven pizza and cold beer

  Trip Report Views: 1,310
Big Kenmy
About the Author
Kenny is a heavy equipment operator for SCE in Big Creek, Dylan is the manager of
lift maintenance at Mammoth Moumtain

KP Ariza

  May 11, 2019 - 02:52pm PT

  May 11, 2019 - 03:38pm PT
Nice. Photos?

Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
  May 11, 2019 - 03:44pm PT
Thanks for posting this Kenny. I'm guessing you started with more than a 12 pack of Bud light. Does bud light weigh less than real beer?
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  May 11, 2019 - 05:36pm PT
Lesser men might have bailed after the suds ran dry. Way to persevere.

Trad climber
  May 11, 2019 - 08:53pm PT
Anything going through that roof looks wild. Nice!

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  May 13, 2019 - 11:39am PT
The oft ignored Puke! Nice

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
  May 15, 2019 - 08:07am PT
This route was climbed at least twice last year (by myself and Brandon Adams before me) with the cracks cleaned out completely so I would say that this is one of those runoff routes (as you can tell from the base of the route) where the first team on it each year is going to garden no matter what.

I found the route to be rather chill when I did it last year. Fun nailing that never felt dangerous with minimal spice (anything over a ledge was solid placements, everything tenuous would have been a clean fall, and the free climbing was chill even in hiking boots). This is an awesome route that really deserves more traffic considering the lines of climbers queing up for its brothers around the corner. I feel like too much of bigwall is the whole "it was so gnar, I was going to die" without considering the effect that can have on other climbers who might trust that beta and decide to stick to the trades, denying themselves a true adventure because the group think ego of bigwall is telling them that the world of obscurities (and semi-obscurities like BP) just isn't for them unless they are ready to risk life and limb.

  May 13, 2019 - 01:13pm PT

People actually climb this pile .....

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  May 13, 2019 - 09:35pm PT
Beautiful write up!

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
  May 14, 2019 - 06:45am PT
Boom, loved it. Running out of Bud Light... Harsh.
Big Kenmy

Big Wall climber
Big Creek Ca.
Author's Reply  May 14, 2019 - 03:53pm PT
I was going back up there this weekend and getting that trash, you beat me to it, thank you. Sorry about that,

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
  May 15, 2019 - 08:08am PT
I was going back up there this weekend and getting that trash, you beat me to it, thank you. Sorry about that,

No worries, glad to hear you were going back for it. Ironically, we were up there cleaning a cache of gear from a different route nearby that we'd buried under a rock so that no one would find it if they happened to walk by.