Trip Report
Bohemian Sandstone Towers of Czech Republic
Tuesday September 1, 2015 2:29am
Two years ago, I watched a Sender Films video “The Sharp End”. It had a segment of Eastern European sandstone tower climbing. It showed massive runouts between ring bolts, and climbers jamming knotted cord into cracks with wooden spoons. "Protection". No metal protection allowed due to the soft rock. I had just started gym climbing, and it blew my mind how radically varied rock climbing can be. I hoped to someday experience these ethics myself. I am fascinated by the history and stories of climbing. This weekend I got to climb these very towers! It did not disappoint. I received just a taste of the local style, but this place is as wild as I had dreamed.

When I heard of the possibility of work trips to Poland, I knew I’d find a way to experience the sandstone towers. I reached out to a guide I found online, but wasn't sure what to expect.

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A collection of knots, my rack for the weekend

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A proper knot placement. They can actually be very secure! Still don’t want to fall on one


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The ring bolts. These are spaced every 5-15 meters on a route. Also used as a belay anchor for multipitch. These go in about a foot into the rock

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Leading the second pitch of the 1930s route up Prachov’s Needle. Only one bolt on this pitch, at the base of the 40ft headwall, with airy 5.9/5.10 climbing above. Unbelievable that this was done 80+ years ago.

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A pitch of only knots for protection.

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A 25ft tall mid 5.10. Protected with one rusty bolt 15ft off the ground.

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This place is beautiful

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Every single tower has a log book. Some as old as 1960s. It is expected to sign in your name, date, and route for every summit.

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My favorite lead of the weekend: An 80ft hand/fist crack called “The Whip”. The name is fitting - ring bolts at 25ft, 45ft, 60ft, 70ft. It’s best to just not fall here.

Such a great weekend in a unique place. I am glad this is not my home crag, as it would be way too mentally exhausting. An amazing experience to get a taste of the ethics, though. I was climbing at the easy end of the spectrum here. I saw many other wild routes, but I’ll save those stories for in person.

Climb on!
Brent

  Trip Report Views: 2,759
brentbarghahn
About the Author

Comments
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Sep 1, 2015 - 05:47am PT
An amazing place with such history. thanks for posting!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Sep 1, 2015 - 06:58am PT
that place looks so wild, and it's fantastically frightening their idea of protection. I think it's cool that our planet can be so different.


did you partake in any tower jumping?


brentbarghahn

Big Wall climber
SLC
Author's Reply  Sep 1, 2015 - 11:05am PT
I did one tower jump, grade 2 (on a scale to 5). Small gap with a small landing. I had to do at least one jump while I was there!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Sep 1, 2015 - 11:35am PT
Nice TR! My Grannie came from there, she knew how to run it out.
I learned how to run it out from her if I sassed her.


Good to see someone who graduated from the gym with honors!
Roots

Mountain climber
Somewhere Fun
  Sep 1, 2015 - 12:44pm PT
I need an old babyhead for my collection. Got any ideas?

Thanks for TR!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Sep 1, 2015 - 12:46pm PT
Brats n' bier!
I love the purity and have more to add later o hope
FULL VALUE CLIMBING STOKE !
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Sep 1, 2015 - 09:34pm PT
This has always been one of my dream places to go. So much history of bold climbing in that beautiful forest.

Thanks for the little vacation.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 2, 2015 - 02:58am PT
Stellar Tr, great history too!
Cheers!
overwatch

climber
Arizona
  Jun 14, 2016 - 05:13pm PT
missed this one, got some instruction from the Bird on knots for pro, he loved that stuff.
We were climbing in Red Rocks and I climbed up to a belay that he had set that consisted of 3 jammed knots. He saw the look on my face and said quit being a pussy it's bomber
7SacredPools

Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
  Jun 14, 2016 - 06:11pm PT
Thanks for the bump, I missed this as well. Wow, this is another world!
Love to visit one day, although I'm not sure how I'd cope with the runouts. Off route last year on Anica Kuk in Paklenica NP, I built a belay out of knotted slings. Bomber! I think...
On the descent we ran into a couple of Czech dudes who had just climbed another route using knotted slings and rope. Makes for a light rack :)
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Jun 14, 2016 - 06:14pm PT
Nice bump! I was thinking of this TR just today.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
  Jun 14, 2016 - 06:35pm PT
Cool!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jun 14, 2016 - 06:45pm PT
Fantastic TR! Thanks for sharing your fun!

More on the history of this amazing area here:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/664661/Classic-Czech-Climbing-History-1983
Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
  Jun 14, 2016 - 07:23pm PT
What a wonderful TR! That place is beautiful and the climbing looks amazing. Think I'll hire a guide when I go...


....I'm a chicken.
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