Trip Report
Beyond Lunacy, Reed's
Wednesday April 16, 2014 5:50pm
Racked doubles to gold BD, single blue, and made sure to carry thin nuts for pitch 2.












Sunlight on the second crux of Lunatic Fringe. Nice warm day that stayed perfect with the breeze.



Nice views from the belay ledge above Beyond the Fringe. March in the Valley ain't bad.



Third pitch corner - fun, cruiser, little loamy. No pics of the second pitch, which felt easier this time than last time, and not heady. Still loose stuff on it.



The Reed’s pullout, a place of good vibes. Fun face climbing makes up the middle of the route.



Mind the hummocks, respect the little guys as much as you can, and if you have to use them never trust them fully.

Credit: le_bruce



Nice sequence of .10+ climbing here - through an alcove, then climb up on thin, positive, steep locks. Got to hang on tight to get the gear in.



5.10 past the golden katana feature.









First-knuckle fingers and into the traverse. Neither is guaranteed to be dry. Both were wet for us. Wetness and cement-like rope drag couldn’t slow down the strong fellow you’re looking at in these pictures, though. Good on-site.



Punishing cement-like rope drag



Crux: steep, wet, thin.







Most of the way through the Happy Hummock Traverse, a piece of climbing I won’t soon forget. No clue whether this will be easier or harder once the hummocks are gone.



The final pitch is short and good: the only weakness in a long, steep, wave-like headwall is dead above the belay. Overhanging sidepulls and jugs with a tied-off knob for pro lead you to a balancey series of slab moves passing two bolts. One last mantle, which you don’t want to screw up on lead, and you’re in the clear. Not your typical Valley pitch and a nice ending to the climb.









Neat patch of forest at Reed’s shoulder



We thought the pitches felt like: 5.10, 5.10, 5.8, 5.10+, 5.10-, 5.11 (wet), 5.10+. Half dozen easy raps get you back to the ground.







The rack.






  Trip Report Views: 2,805
le_bruce
About the Author
le_bruce is a climber from Oakland: what's not to love?

Comments
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Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
  Apr 16, 2014 - 05:58pm PT
I don't get it, what's all this cubicle business?
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
  Apr 16, 2014 - 06:01pm PT
Congratulations on rolling out a robust initiative.
overwatch

climber
Arizona
  Apr 16, 2014 - 06:15pm PT
Cool shots...nice attempt at something different for a TR
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Apr 16, 2014 - 06:18pm PT
“Mind the hummocks, respect the little guys as much as you can, and if you have to use them never trust them fully haha, elevator down! first floor!, haha, just saying.”

you can't even imagine... not so much haha if it happens for real...

enjoyed a quick swing through the TR, read it slower later
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Apr 16, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
On topic response to a TR, within 3 minutes of reading:

Hope to see more le_bruce TRs, which I know will come soon. LOL!

#donttrustthedamndirtpatchesbelowthelastroofthatshitaintstable

PS: Ed told me a horror hummock story in the gym. Seriously, treat them like they are a time bomb. Because they are.
ablegabel

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Apr 16, 2014 - 06:44pm PT
Nice job on Beyond Lunacy. Made me feel good to see the Happy Humock is still there and looking healthy.

-Eric Gabel
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 16, 2014 - 09:50pm PT
Thanks, when do we all get nuked by c- mac????
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Author's Reply  Apr 16, 2014 - 10:58pm PT
Haha you're next, Ezra!

Brandon, ha yeah fair question, I don't know, the TR is maybe a little tedious all things considered. The climb is not - the climb is great!

But the bonus is that you can just read the italics and scope the pics and you have a C-/D+ conventional TR.

Thing is that Vitaliy recently wrote a killer TR for this same climb, and I really didn't have much more to add. But still wanted to kick something into the all important ST TR page.

So I wrote a flavorless TR in italics and couched it inside a shaky, hasty, maybe not top quality sci-fi story about a mid-level ST manager 3 yrs in the future who is going to have to kill most of you who have come to this URL with some sort of weapon. And I embedded a tribute to some (but not all) of my favorite TR writers in the story. Too bad they all get nuked some time this summer for their trespasses against the new ST standard...
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Apr 17, 2014 - 10:04am PT
Awesome TR le bruce. Clever writing and some great climbing pics. Thanks a lot.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Apr 17, 2014 - 10:27am PT
I'm thinking about writing a trip report about this trip report.

I'll then send it to Hudon, Tahoe523 and Regan to inspire them to come back. This report really shows just how downhill this site has gone. LOL. ;)

sadface emoticon
hashtag LOL
smiley winking emoticon
Thumbs up emoticon

Scott
perswig

climber
  Apr 17, 2014 - 10:37am PT
Thank you, Comrade.

The Collective is strengthened by your heroic efforts and leadership in ushering in a new Dawn for a better Supertopo.


Dale, Cadre 6
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Apr 17, 2014 - 11:44am PT
{raises hand} Sir? Do you have a pencil sharpener? I broke my pencil and can't make notes on my scratch paper before replying. Nobody told us there would be a pop quiz today {trails off, eyes lower to desk}

{excitedly looks up and types furiously}
Oh, check out that beautiful yellow BD Bullet Pack! Man oh man, when is the next REI member sale?


p.s. If le_bruce ever makes a movie, I want to see it! Solid script writing skills.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Apr 17, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
Another killer Tr leBruce. I like the originality of the fiction within the standard trip report.

Awesome photos as allways! Thanks!
RyanD

climber
  Apr 17, 2014 - 12:42pm PT
There will be no belly laughs


I think I must have done something wrong because this was not my experience when analyzing this TR at all, I had a quite opposite reaction actually.

Despite my inability to adapt to the policy as instructed I plan on working hard in the future to properly understand & do my part. As well my response time needs some work, I hope this wont reflect poorly on my division at the next quarterly review. I take sole responsibility for my actions & am fully on board with the new direction of the STUE.

Sincerely,

RyanD
Random Ock
Supertopo, SW Canadian division, Squamish branch
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Apr 17, 2014 - 03:28pm PT
Thanks for taking me on your journey
RyanD

climber
  Apr 18, 2014 - 08:17pm PT
Bump
portent

Social climber
your mom's house
  Apr 18, 2014 - 08:40pm PT
Awesome! Great TR
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Apr 19, 2014 - 01:50pm PT
Le le le le BRUUCCCCCEEEEE!!!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Apr 20, 2014 - 01:46pm PT
Why Are Supertopoians Wrong About Everything?
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
  Apr 20, 2014 - 05:32pm PT
Nice work.

If there was a grade for rope drag, this would have to be up there....
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Apr 20, 2014 - 05:37pm PT
Nice TR! Might have to give it a go if the weather cools down.
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
  Apr 20, 2014 - 05:43pm PT
Uhm, are we gunna be tested on this?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
  Apr 23, 2014 - 08:19pm PT
Here's you le_bruce, starting out that beautiful morning,

le_bruce sending!
le_bruce sending!
Credit: Footloose

Great pics on your part, looks to be a great adventure going all the way. Thanks for the psyche!


(I need a new camera.)
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Author's Reply  Apr 29, 2014 - 08:48pm PT
Footloose, hey alright, that's my partner there. How did the Fringe go for you guys? Everything you were hoping it'd be?

Looking at that second pitch in your pic, I think I've gotten fond of it. First time, it just scared the daylights out of me. So many flexing features above so many tiny pieces...
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