Trip Report
Autumn time is sarca Valley time - italy dolce vita in the lowland and lakeside
Monday October 17, 2016 12:46am
More pictures and betas here:

Sarca Valley climbing pictures

top left corner top right corner
'Daniel tip toeing
'Daniel tip toeing
Credit: stefano607518
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: stefano607518
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: stefano607518
bottom left corner bottom right corner

A nice two days in Arco with Daniel. Saturday morning it rained and keept raining till ca. 1 pm. so we indulged in a cappuccino and started climbing what seemed a good route in this conditions. "Zanzara e Labbradoro"

The route is slightly but constantly ovehanging, features ca 7 old rusted bolts per pitch and we found it dry...despite the pouring rain ;-)
Sunday with full sun over the all Europe we climbed "White Crack" an old historical trad line which climb almost entirely crack and dhiedhral (for 300m...). This route feature one of the best 80m dhiedhral of the all Sarca Valley. Almost entirely to protect. A nice climb in warm autumn sun.

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stefano607518
About the Author
stefano607518 is a trad climber from italy/austria/switzerland.

Comments
mueffi 49

Trad climber
  Oct 17, 2016 - 04:50pm PT
Most climbers here in the US know probably Arco, which is at the end of the Sarca Valley, right at the northern end of the Lago di Garda .

This is a paradise for all outdoors enthusiasts; climbers, hikers, mountain bikers, windsurfers, paragliders, wingsuit jumpers - you name it. All right in the middle of the Dolomites. Stayed there this summer several times escaping the crappy weather on the north side of the Alps. As to the climbing:
Best limestone with sports climbs and the whole valley filled with large multi pitch walls - you need to see it for yourself.
And before I forget:
best pizza , super icecream parlors, great Italian ambiente and cheapest climbing gear to be found in Arco !!
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Oct 17, 2016 - 04:40pm PT
Awesome! I spent two very pleasant weeks there in the late 80s climbing with some friendly locals that I met. Stayed in the campground, rented a bike to get around and got really strong. I could never get any of the locals to do any of the longer climbs with me though. They kept saying "non sono alpinisto".
snakefoot

climber
Nor Cal
  Oct 17, 2016 - 04:43pm PT
nice!! ^^^^agreed, the whole area is great for anyone who wants to get er done and enjoy a fantastic setting with excellent food.
stefano607518

Trad climber
italy/austria/switzerland
Author's Reply  Oct 18, 2016 - 02:25am PT
agree,
the area is great indeed.

short to no approaches, loads of rock.
many different styles (bolted, trad, semitrad...full sport bolted, short, long routes)
the food is cheap and damn good, the wine is great, the climbers are welcomed, dirtbagger are very well seen.
solo traveller will find easily a climbing mate

BTW as i will visit San Fran for work next july (end) and have 2 full weeks for climbing afterwards (1-15 Aug)
anybody from that area which might suggest spots (other tha the VALLEY) and/or wants to have a fairly motivated belay bunny? ;-)

I belay for free .....
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Oct 21, 2016 - 08:24pm PT
The Sierra, Needles or Tuolumne. As good as it gets.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Oct 21, 2016 - 10:04pm PT
Another lovely TR!

You have lots of fans here, I am sure there will be plenty of volunteers to climb with you next August. That should be prime time for the higher elevations so you willl have a ton of choices for climbing areas. The Valley would be way too hot anyway. Tuolumne Meadows, Hulk, etc

Probably beginning of July, post up about your schedule and what you would most like to do.
stefano607518

Trad climber
italy/austria/switzerland
Author's Reply  Oct 22, 2016 - 11:43am PT
the red dihedral....
in fact...
...looks awesome
by any standard ;-)

so you confirm me "El Cap and Co" would be way too hot in Aug?

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Oct 22, 2016 - 11:56am PT

Vive la dolce vita...
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Oct 22, 2016 - 03:30pm PT
Si Stefano, il tempo fa brutto nel' estate a Valley. Troppo caldo!
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