Trip Report
And they say Zion tends to be climbed “clean”…
Thursday November 21, 2013 3:01pm
Credit: Kristoffer
I just went out and jumped on the streaked wall in Zion, while doing so I found quite a bit of trash and junked ropes discarded all over the place…
Credit: Kristoffer
It kind of gave me the mental picture of 1950’s era big mountain expedition style climbing had been going on here, but fact is this stuff was not from the 50’s or even the late 90’s because I was up on this wall climbing in 2007 and it was a rather pristine picture of desert wilderness at that time.
Credit: Kristoffer
I spent a day cleaning the place up and ferried a plumb full grade 6 pig of rubbish down to the base of the approach pitches.
Credit: Kristoffer
My original plan was to hop onto one of the more serious nail-ups and camp on the wall for about eight days, but my water situation was not cooperating with that idea, so I scrapped the plan and ditched the entire wall camping kit on Rubicon ledge and went over to Tails of the Scorpion with a few liters of water and my rack n’ ropes.
Credit: Kristoffer
Credit: Kristoffer
I wall stalled till a bit after high noon when the sun fell behind the wall and gave me some shade. It was blast off time now! Immediately I found it to be super cruiser walling compared to my prior experience on the formation.
Credit: Kristoffer
The smile on my face shifted early that night when I got into the chimney pitch and I found it to be the physical crux of the route, but like all things it soon ended and I was smiling and jamming up overhanging diagonal splitters.
Credit: Kristoffer
At just about thirty hours after my departure from the deluxe Rubicon ledge system I was doing the final mantel over the summit lip of the wall, completely exhausted and at the point of hallucinations.
Credit: Kristoffer
I made a primitive camp among the summit pines, washed my hands and passed out till 11AM the next morning.
Credit: Kristoffer
I would like to call it a near perfect solo onsight push of the route, but fact is I climbed the last pitch some years ago while topping out on Latitudes, but other than that I was free of beta, took no falls and had no clusters during the climb.. its all went smooth and was easy sailing.
Credit: Kristoffer
Credit: Kristoffer
I pulled more trash off the top and down in town recruited my local friend Zach to help me get some of remaining junk off the top of the wall.
Credit: Kristoffer
I used no other pitons on the route other than 15 #3 peckers and 5 #2 peckers. I would give it my Sandstone nail up rating of: No need for goggles.
Credit: Kristoffer

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Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Nov 21, 2013 - 03:07pm PT

I wonder if the authors of the new route on the right side saw any of that sh#t during fixing?

Thanks for pulling it all and showing the resulting pile, puts it all in perspective.

I have to ask, how do you drill out the peckers? I tried that with multiple bits in the machine shop, coolant etc, never had good luck

What type of bits did you use?

Congrats on a cool climb.

mali, africa
Author's Reply  Nov 21, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
It was clean under Wet Stone Wall and Lord Helmet, the trash trail lead me to Tails.
I drilled out one via a pattern with standard metal drill bits on a drill press, and then used that drilled beak as a template to drill the others. A cool temperature was maintained during the process then I beveled all the holes with a larger bit to finish the product. I used a diamond wheel to sharpen my bits.

Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
  Nov 21, 2013 - 03:24pm PT


Credit: poop_tube

Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
  Nov 21, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
I heard he drills holes in his beers to save weight
Rocky IV

Social climber
  Nov 21, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
that's super rad, climbing hard and pulling down a insane amount of trash. Did you get it all or was there more? Looks like a huge load to carry down after a 30 hour solo push

  Nov 21, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
wow - good job and sweet tr.

good to see people do awesome stuff and not have their tr loaded with ethics BS and spray.

well done.

Social climber
  Nov 21, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
good job, and thanks for cleaning the route.

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Nov 21, 2013 - 04:14pm PT
sweet report man and a super killer job on the clean up.


Big Wall climber
The Bear State
  Nov 21, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
Thanks for the clean up! AND a 30 hour push! wow, thats waaaay faster than I even did the approach.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Nov 21, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
Nicely done!!! A great climb and some stewardship as well.
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
  Nov 21, 2013 - 04:42pm PT
Great effort on the clean up and climb.

The Good Places
  Nov 21, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
I dig yer aid rating system

A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
  Nov 21, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
Wow awesome! Nice custom mod for your beaks. Wish I had a drill press, pretty trick!

Nice work. Get in touch if you ever want to go up there, I would love to climb on that thing this winter.


Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
  Nov 21, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
Fantastic job up so many ways!
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Nov 21, 2013 - 05:32pm PT
Cool report and mad props for your clean up effort!

Trad climber
  Nov 21, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
Nice job. Folks like you that give climbing a good name.
tom Carter

Social climber
  Nov 21, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
Thank you!!!!! What an effort.


Trad climber
Sierra Vista
  Nov 21, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
Steller climbing and a social conscience to boot! You put us to shame.

Really well done, that is truly a mountain of shyte you removed.


4 Corners Area
  Nov 21, 2013 - 06:18pm PT
Thanks a lot, for setting a good example!

Way tgo get it done, solo style . . .

Yeah Baby!

  Nov 21, 2013 - 06:28pm PT



TFCU! (ThanksForCleaninUp)


Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
  Nov 21, 2013 - 06:33pm PT
Amazing effort. Really upping the stoke for me out here in the Bay.

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Nov 21, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
Thanks for setting a great example.

I love the black of night selfie :)

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Nov 21, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
Cleaning up...that is some awesome commitment.
Indeed a beautiful trip report...and what Nut said about the night selfie...Blair Witchy


Trad climber
  Nov 21, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
The Zephyr!

We gotta do another wall next year dude!

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 21, 2013 - 09:31pm PT
Nice job on cleaning people's trash up,
I thought climbers were better then that!!!!
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
  Nov 21, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
This is a shot that Kristoffer took of me on a 9 1/2 hour push of Dese...
This is a shot that Kristoffer took of me on a 9 1/2 hour push of Desert Shield, with Brad Ward, the week before his solo.
Credit: wayne w
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
  Nov 22, 2013 - 12:58am PT
great clean up and adventure!

  Nov 22, 2013 - 09:27am PT
I like it. I like it a lot.

Trad climber
  Nov 22, 2013 - 09:37am PT
Thanks for the clean up and TR.
smith curry

  Nov 22, 2013 - 09:40am PT
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Nov 22, 2013 - 10:16am PT
Thanks for posting your TR. Excellent.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Nov 22, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
YOU DA MAN! It always surprises me to see climber's garbage in our temples.

Photos are really great, BTW.

  Nov 22, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
Great job cleaning up - sucks though that you hd to do it.

I like how you drilled out the Peckers. A rack of 30-45 of those, which I frequently use on Fisher Towers and even El Cap routes, weighs a lot. I'm going to have to give that a try. Thanks for the idea.

Again, hats off for the stewardship!!


Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Nov 23, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
Yo Wayne W, and Kristof! Were you guys hollering and having a great time on the shield as a party of 3?

We were descending the space shot raps, and traded some whoops if that was you guys!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
On the road.
  Nov 23, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
Thanks for your time and effort to clean up the area.

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
  Nov 23, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
Thanx for cleaning up other peoples crap and the fine TR too....

wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
  Nov 24, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
That was us Grippa! We had the best time, and were laughing so hard up there!! Nice job on Spaceshot, you guys cruised that thing.

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Nov 25, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
haha awesome! we had a great time, and glad to hear you guys did too!
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
  Nov 26, 2013 - 01:30am PT
Here are some more Desert Shield shots, Grippa!
Credit: wayne w
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
  Nov 26, 2013 - 01:32am PT
Kristoffer gunning it.
Kristoffer gunning it.
Credit: wayne w
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
  Nov 26, 2013 - 01:34am PT
Almost Nine and a half hours after we started.
Credit: wayne w
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
  Nov 26, 2013 - 01:42am PT
Back at the base after the Raps.
Credit: wayne w

Lake Tahoe, Nevada
  Dec 4, 2013 - 09:36am PT
Wonderful job! Kudos for carrying out the trash too. Really respect your style. Hopefully anyone reading this will remember when on a wall ALWAYS take your trash with you. No excuses....
Jim Smith

Trad climber
sunnyvale, ca
  Dec 4, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
Nice equalization of those three bolts using the rope. How did you do that?

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
  Dec 4, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
Awesome stuff guys!

Kris, sorry I didn't make it up there to at least say Hi, things got in the way as they tend to do. Make it back down to Vegas some time so we can rope up again!
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