Trip Report
Ancient Art
Wednesday April 2, 2014 4:32pm
After seeing the Citi bank commerical of Ancient Art with Alex Honnhold and Katie Brown too many times to count, the plan was hatched to go out to Moab and have a go at the Stolen Chimney on Ancient Art.

Sunrising on the Fisher Towers
Sunrising on the Fisher Towers
Credit: Floridaputz

We got an earily start and watched the sunrising through the towers.

Kingfisher Tower and Ancient Art
Kingfisher Tower and Ancient Art
Credit: Floridaputz

As soon as we were out of the car I could feel a great vibe that holds this amazing place. Quickly on our way we saw great views of Kingfisher tower and Ancient Art

Ancient Art south face
Ancient Art south face
Credit: Floridaputz

The trail follows right below the S Face and gives you a great view of the Tower. The actual climb goes up the stolen chimney which starts at about the mid point of the tower on the east end.

View of the stolen chimney
View of the stolen chimney
Credit: Floridaputz

The cool factor is a 10, however the rock quality is much less. I would call it "baked Mud" Having lived and climbed in the Grand Canyon, I was familiar with this type of choss. Using extreem care not to crank too hard is good technique.

The first pitch is 5.10+ and is well protected. No more bolts on this route. All the fixed Protection is glue in shuts. I have never seen this type of shut.

Pitch 1
Pitch 1
Credit: Floridaputz

I had read a lot of beta on this climb and was aware that P1 should be broken into 2 pitches because of rope drag. After looking myself, I was sure I could get it done in one pitch without any rope drag but when I arrived at the first bolt I was already pulling rope just to advance. I guess that the rope falls into some unseen crack and really gets bogged down. So much for getting it clean !

the "MUD" chimney
the "MUD" chimney
Credit: Floridaputz

The Pitch 2 mud chimney was pretty fun. However you do see the true nature of the rock and it is not very inspiring. At the pitch end you must either go straight up the face or burrow through a hole to reach the ledge. No way would I fit through the hole ! This is a great spacious ledge with great views.

mud chimney
mud chimney
Credit: Floridaputz
Looking North over Fisher Towers
Looking North over Fisher Towers
Credit: Floridaputz

Now we are to the good stuff. A very shorp pitch leads to a belay on the end of the tower right before the "walkway" This is a much easier crux than the first pitch and is not bad.

Keith with go pro
Keith with go pro
Credit: Floridaputz

We set up shop here. We had a helmet GoPro, a Quadcoptor with a GoPro attachement and a tripod with a digital camera. After I led the Spire, Keith lanched the quadcopter and filmed me standing on the top. The video is Totally cool. However too big a file to post here.

Looking back on belay from the last hard move.
Looking back on belay from the last hard move.
Credit: Floridaputz

The "walkway" was a trip. I found the free move to get on the tower pretty hard. I'm 54 years old and ready to have my second hip replacement, and I really struggled to figure this out. The last hard move was really fun and much easier.

On Top
On Top
Credit: Floridaputz

the top of the spire
the top of the spire
Credit: Floridaputz

the belay from the top
the belay from the top
Credit: Floridaputz

the spire
the spire
Credit: Floridaputz

the team
the team
Credit: Floridaputz

I have to say it was well worth the effort. Standing on top of the spire is truley amazing. The citi commerical, all the you tube videos of crazy stunts at the top and lots of other climbers do not take anything away from this spectacular climb. Even the choss is not enough to ruin the day. The super topo
was helpful. a double rope rappel from the big ledge gets you to the ground. You do not want to single rope rappel down the chimney if others are on the climb.



  Trip Report Views: 817
Floridaputz
About the Author
Floridaputz is a trad climber from Oakland Park Florida.

Comments
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FortMentšl

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
  Apr 2, 2014 - 04:35pm PT
Jesus Christ! What's that thing on Keith's head?
Ward Trotter

Trad climber
  Apr 2, 2014 - 04:40pm PT
Looks like someone dropped a crowbar or something and impaled one climber right on his helmet. That's gotta hurt.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
  Apr 2, 2014 - 04:42pm PT
That was gonna be my question. What the Sam Hill ? Nice TR but I'm not so sure I"m on board with the "quadcopter".....
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Apr 2, 2014 - 04:56pm PT
Questionable cranial accessories aside, all I can say is wow! Thanks for the TR, although I'm not sure I want to find out about "baked mud" first hand.

John
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
  Apr 2, 2014 - 05:04pm PT
Weird how the quad copter shot wasn't as cool as the normal side shot from the belay. You just can't really get a feel for the exposure from above.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
  Apr 2, 2014 - 05:14pm PT
TFPU!

Post a screenshot from the quadcopter video!!!
10b4me

climber
  Apr 2, 2014 - 05:19pm PT
Thanks for the trip report.
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
  Apr 2, 2014 - 06:44pm PT
Sweet. Nice job fellas.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Apr 2, 2014 - 07:59pm PT
Such an awesome climb! Def one of the more unique summits I've stood on & for sure the one that I thought would be most likely to fall over lol!


Great job & great TR. If u are able to upload your chopper video to vimeo or YouTube & post a link here i'd love to see it.
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
  Apr 2, 2014 - 08:26pm PT
Cool report! Thank you.

Comments on the helmet cam are laugh out loud funny!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Apr 2, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
hey there say, floridaputz... wow and OH MY! THIS is some rock...

thank so very much for sharing this neat trip report...

very nice in deed... wow...
good photos, too, :)
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Apr 2, 2014 - 08:32pm PT
Put the video from the quad copter on YouTube and post a link. Cool TR.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 3, 2014 - 07:14pm PT
Very nice, mmmmmm mud!!!!!
jonnyrig

climber
  Apr 3, 2014 - 07:36pm PT
that looks thoroughly cool. tfpu.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Apr 3, 2014 - 09:43pm PT
Mudslingers at work,
TFPU
Tad
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