Trip Report
“An old friend came in from out of town.” aka Moderate Cody Ice Weekend
Monday December 21, 2015 8:59pm
"No, I didn't. Honest... I ran out of gas. I... I had a flat tire. I didn't have enough money for cab fare. My tux didn't come back from the cleaners. An old friend came in from out of town. Someone stole my car. There was an earthquake. A terrible flood. Locusts! IT WASN'T MY FAULT, I SWEAR TO GOD!"
Jake Elwood, Blues Brothers

[Click to View YouTube Video]


This scene was playing in my head on full repeat as we post holed in knee deep snow over two miles into ice we hoped was there. By we, I mean Joel. He was the young one. The rest of us offered useful encouragement such as, “Take smaller steps for us short guys!”. Sunday was a long day.

I had mixed up signals with the Director of Events, aka the wife. I say I, because you pick your battles. I was sure I told her my friends would be in town for the weekend. With it being winter (well technically fall) a trip up the Southfork was in order. I was reminded Friday that we had an engagement Saturday night. No problem, I’ll drive home after climbing Saturday then meet them at the bunkhouse early Sunday morning.
___

Day 1 Bozo’s Revenge, WI3+

Saturday morning I get the text that the posse is just outside of Cody. We meet up, I grab a rider and off we go for a Farbeaux mission. There is a very talented climber here who is known for his Mulkey Missions. Tales of radness, high adventure, and first ascents. The Farbeaux mission is almost the antithesis of a Mulkey Mission. We seek out the moderate classics, because frankly we suck at ice climbing and a good solid WI3+ in Cody usually provides plenty of the bug eyed fear.

You can see Pitch 2 from the road. It is the $$$ pitch for the climb. A perfect warm up. The hike into Bozo’s is as moderate as the Southfork gets. It is just over a mile with about 1,200’ vertical.

We followed the wolf tracks for a bit.
Canis Lupus vs Scarpa size 44
Canis Lupus vs Scarpa size 44
Credit: WyoRockMan

Then the climb came into view.
Bozo's Revenge
Bozo's Revenge
Credit: WyoRockMan

A warm up pitch of about 20m of WI2+ and 40m of waist deep snow brings you to the money P2.
We did laps and variations until dark and walked out without event.
Bozo's P2
Bozo's P2
Credit: WyoRockMan

Love this place.
Wanker
Wanker
Credit: WyoRockMan

Driving home I was filled with visions of grandeur for the next day. I'd miss the usual skullduggery and nonsense of hanging with the dudes at the bunkhouse, but I had commitments.
___

“What do you mean you’re getting up at 5am tomorrow?”

“Well yeah, that was the plan remember?”

“No, the plan was for you to climb today, we go to the surprise birthday party (which we were late for the surprise, oops!) tonight, then we have the day together tomorrow”

“But honey, the boys are DEPENDING on me. I need to bring them an extra helmet. It’s perfect conditions. They might get stuck in the snow. LOCUSTS!”

{Jake eyes}

“Fine.”

___

Day 2- Spotted Owl, WI3+

“Holy sh!t! That thing is way up there!”

You can’t see Spotted Owl from the valley floor, so you are going on speculation. Hunter Creek Falls looked nice and fat, so the likelihood of Spotted Owl being in is good.

The approach to Spotted Owl/Hunter Creek Falls (WI5) is about 2.5 miles and 1,800’ vertical to the start. NBD. About 60% of the mellow hike was knee deep plus. Grande Type 2 fun. One in the party thought it crossed the line to Type 3. We mentioned that hardening the fvck up would help.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

The guard let us pass.
5/8 curl ram
5/8 curl ram
Credit: WyoRockMan

This isn’t so bad. (yet)
Credit: WyoRockMan

Getting closer
Hunter Creek Falls
Hunter Creek Falls
Credit: WyoRockMan

Ah, thar she be!
Spotted Owl Sandwich
Spotted Owl Sandwich
Credit: WyoRockMan

Hunter Creek Falls, WI5
Hunter Creek Falls, WI5
Credit: WyoRockMan

Spotted Owl, WI3+, P1
Spotted Owl, WI3+, P1
Credit: WyoRockMan

Spotted Owl Sandwich
Spotted Owl Sandwich
Credit: WyoRockMan


Spotted Owl continues for two more pitches. The second had a lot of death crust and snow and wasn’t particularly appealing. The nice thing about the climb is you rappel Hunter Creek Falls. None of us had ever been on a WI5 before so we opted (mostly due to the late hour) to try our hand at being top rope heros rather than slog up the intended route.

Top Rope Heros
Top Rope Heros
Credit: WyoRockMan

Great views of the north side of the valley.
Credit: WyoRockMan

Of course we walked out in the dark. Like usual. Noobs.
I was tired. The wife wasn't going to be pleased with the late hour. I'm missing another night at the bunkhouse. Stupid work. Grrrrr.

___

“Did you have fun honey?”

(Whoa, not the reaction I was expecting!)

“I did. Remember it’s not my fault you made me move here.”

(She thinks that is hilarious, but it is true. It was her idea to move here. I wasn’t going to argue, after all you pick your battles.)

The other side.
The other side.
Credit: WyoRockMan








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WyoRockMan
About the Author
WyoRockMan is a wanna be ice climber. Residing in Cody.

Comments
Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
  Dec 21, 2015 - 09:11pm PT
Love it Wyo!! That place is sooo much more hardcore than Hyalite. Tack on a mile (at least) to each approach and a number grade compared to Hyalite.
norm larson

climber
wilson, wyoming
  Dec 22, 2015 - 07:58am PT
Nice. Thanks for the climbing content. Reminds I need to get over to Cody this winter and do some more of f those classic "moderates"
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Dec 22, 2015 - 10:04am PT
Funny and interesting. Thanks for sharing it!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Dec 22, 2015 - 11:19am PT
Nice - and I enjoyed the humor, too.

Thanks much.

John
661climber

climber
  Dec 22, 2015 - 02:22pm PT
Sweet!
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