Trip Report
A southwest BC Primer - Summer so far
Friday July 29, 2011 2:36pm
So far this summer its still spring. A Northwesterly flow that started in April still hasn't ended making for "one of those summers" What to do? Extend the ice climbing season of course. Mid june saw me tramping around with the dog looking for lingering alpine ice to slay
Joffre with Edwards/Miller thin line on the buttress
Joffre with Edwards/Miller thin line on the buttress
Credit: Bruce Kay
Rhapsody in Floyd 95% intact in June!
Rhapsody in Floyd 95% intact in June!
Credit: Bruce Kay

The hound thought bum skiing was a lot of fun - until she got a little too close to the crampons

yarf
yarf
Credit: Bruce Kay
uh oh...
uh oh...
Credit: Bruce Kay

Anyway all thoughts of crawling up the anus of some mountain looking for decaying remnants of winter were cast aside with one look at all the surrounding sun drenched granite!

East face of The Mouse's tooth and The Mighty Mouse Wall.  Eat your he...
East face of The Mouse's tooth and The Mighty Mouse Wall. Eat your heart out Sierra's!
Credit: Bruce Kay

The first foray comfirmed suspicions

Only made it half way on the road
Only made it half way on the road
Credit: Bruce Kay
An ocean of slide alder safely buried - thank god
An ocean of slide alder safely buried - thank god
Credit: Bruce Kay

getting to the goods
getting to the goods
Credit: Bruce Kay
a super cool 5.7 traverse linking cracks on pitch 4
a super cool 5.7 traverse linking cracks on pitch 4
Credit: Bruce Kay
starting the blockbuster "Supercrack of the Coast Range" pitch - 30 me...
starting the blockbuster "Supercrack of the Coast Range" pitch - 30 meters perfect hands, 25 meters perfect fingers
Credit: Bruce Kay
Even the elder stateman of the bouldering and sport twinkie community ...
Even the elder stateman of the bouldering and sport twinkie community gave it his enthusiastic thumbs up. Pad people are people too!
Credit: Bruce Kay

Further route and trail building sessions have got the place off to a good start with one 11 pitch 3 star rig going to the top so far. This place ought to provide some good fun for a while yet.

Anyway.... Back in Squish.....what did Hendrix say? Aw man, Its raining outside! Lay back and groove for a Rainy day..... Persistent wetness forces us onto the walls. We choose the Blind Man Beckham mega classic "Cowboys and Indians". Too Lazy for hauling overnight gear we convince ourselves of the feasability of a one day ascent

The creative mind unleashed
The creative mind unleashed
Credit: Bruce Kay
Captain ahab casts ahunt for the Great White Whale
Captain ahab casts ahunt for the Great White Whale
Credit: Bruce Kay
The best part of the deal is belay duty if you got a ledge and certain...
The best part of the deal is belay duty if you got a ledge and certain accessories
Credit: Bruce Kay

Predictably, the climb drags out over 2 weeks of rain and dithering. Our bi - annual wall out of the way, we wonder how else to avoid the rain. Someone notices that the rain stops at the border so its off to Washington pass
East face of Lexington spire
East face of Lexington spire
Credit: Bruce Kay
excellent granite, blue skies and not another soul in sight - better t...
excellent granite, blue skies and not another soul in sight - better than the sierra's? sacriledge!
Credit: Bruce Kay
All the traffic racket on the highway is just like being back home
All the traffic racket on the highway is just like being back home
Credit: Bruce Kay

Now a special feature for all the old deviant Veedewoo wide fetishists lurking - a chick cranks a wide crack! Try to not get too excited gentlemen.
Our heroic Goddess of Wyde first shows her contempt for the upcoming p...
Our heroic Goddess of Wyde first shows her contempt for the upcoming pitch by unloading her bladder at the base. "I piss on you from a very great height!" she pronounces
Credit: Bruce Kay
after casually clipping the wobbly fixed two by foor, ketchup deftly s...
after casually clipping the wobbly fixed two by foor, ketchup deftly stems into the crux... then lets one go. "Birds and butterflies!" she shouts
Credit: Bruce Kay
displaying technique that only a woman could pull off - but hey, check...
displaying technique that only a woman could pull off - but hey, check out that butt!!
Credit: Bruce Kay
crux dispensed with, Ketchup reassures me that even I may manage it. I...
crux dispensed with, Ketchup reassures me that even I may manage it. I scoff and reply in all manliness that with a singing tight top rope, i can get up anything
Credit: Bruce Kay

A quick rappel off and its off back home. Amazingly, as soon as we cross the border, the skies go grey and it starts raining. But no matter. The Pinks are running and flogging the water works just as well in the rain. All you guys got in the sierra's is blue skies, golden granite and 6 inch trout. We got mud, slugs and our fish start at five pounds - so there





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Bruce Kay
About the Author
Bruce Kay is a gym climber from BC.

Comments
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Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
  Jul 29, 2011 - 02:52pm PT
A truly NW adventure. Nice TR, I enjoyed that.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Jul 29, 2011 - 03:17pm PT
When it's good up here, it's really good.

Thanks for the story and pics
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
  Jul 29, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
Lunch bump!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
  Jul 29, 2011 - 04:38pm PT
What is this "summer" thing of which you speak?
eKat

Trad climber
  Jul 29, 2011 - 04:38pm PT
NICE!

TFPU!
paulb

climber
  Jul 29, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
Tried your new route in N. Joffre yesterday. We got up the first 8 pitches before rapping out of fear of navigating the walk-out in darkness. I'd like to say our actual motivation for bailing was the rain that began falling as soon as we touched back down on the the bergshrund. Truthfully, that was just plain luck.

Pitches 4 and 5 blew my mind. Both are absolutely stunning. Spent a fair amount of time fiddling with mediocre gear above the pin on the "thin" 6th pitch. Pretty amazing setting.

Any recommendations for alpine outings in the PNW with rock/climbing that compares in quality to pitches 4-6?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Author's Reply  Jul 30, 2011 - 11:52am PT
cool! glad to hear its as good as we thought! we thought pitch 6 takes small greys, purples and a blue or two pretty good.

For quality the only things comparable that spring to my mind are nesakwatch spire , Sprung c*#k errect on Les Cornes (Anderson river) and the north rib of Slesse is reasonably good crack climbing. I'm sure there's other comparable stuff in the Enchantments, and i hear some routes at Wa pass are top quality (Passenger, hitchhiker, clean break?)

oops.... I forgot one: south face of grainger is excellent crack climbing. steep and clean
Impaler

Social climber
Oakland
  Jul 29, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
Thanks Bruce! Awesome stuff!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 29, 2011 - 10:32pm PT
Fantastic rock, fantastic pics, sunny weather. Yeah!!!
klk

Trad climber
cali
  Jul 29, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
nothin better than a ski in, knowing the slide alder is beneath ya, waiting for the fools who will rush in a month later
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Jul 29, 2011 - 10:50pm PT
Great fun Bruce!

I loved your whole post and Heidi enjoyed snickers and snorts from the descriptions on the photo sequence of the Goddess of Wyde.

She thinks: you're fun!

I agree.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
  Jul 29, 2011 - 10:55pm PT
Most excellent pics.

I agree w/Fritz - very entertaining and fun report. Thanks!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Jul 29, 2011 - 11:34pm PT
Pretty sick man!
MH2

climber
  Jul 29, 2011 - 11:55pm PT
Yup. Rather like my summer so far, too, only higher, harder, longer and farther.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
  Jul 30, 2011 - 02:46am PT
After I graduate from mini traxioning the Sugar Loaf at Murrin Park I'll be sure to check out some of your suggestions. What is the condition of the belay stations like on Cowboys and Aliens? Love the baby angles sunk to the eye in the photo.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Jul 30, 2011 - 03:03am PT
Way cool! Thanks for sharing.
"The Mouse's Tooth" - haha, that's great.
But we want a better photo of the goods on its Supercrack next time? :-)
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
  Jul 30, 2011 - 10:19am PT
*!
Sol Wertkin

climber
Leavenworth, WA
  Jul 30, 2011 - 11:42am PT
Paul B: Here's a list of my top 21 favorite-quality routes in WA State that you may find comparable to the stuff highlighted in this TR. If anything it's a good start.. Some are not in guidebooks but some internet sleuthing should reveal enough beta.

Thin Red Line 12+ Liberty Bell
The Tempest Wall 12+ Colchuck Balanced Rock
Liberty Crack/Freedom of Death 9+A2/12-
Let It Burn 12- Colchuck Balanced Rock
Dragons of Eden 11+/12- Dragontail Pk
West Face 11+ West Gunsight Pk
The Passenger 11+ South Early Winter Spire
Der Sportsmen 11+ Prusik Peak
West Face 11+ Colchuck Balanced Rock
Gorillas in the Mist 11- Mt. Stuart
Solid Gold 10+/11- Prusik Pk
Acid Baby 10+ The Spineless Prow
Clean Break 10+ Juno Tower
East Face 10+ Main Gunsight Pk
SW Buttress 10+ Cathederal Peak
Rebel Yell 10 Chianti Spire
South Face 10- Prusik Pk
Megalodon Ridge 10+ Mt. Goode
Complete N. Ridge 9+ Mt. Stuart
Torment-Forbidden Traverse 9- Cascade Pass
NE Buttress 5.6 Mt. Goode

Hey Bruce, if you ever come down to Leavenworth please look me up, i'd love to kick back and have a beer with ya, be happy to point you in the right direction down here in the enchantments.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Author's Reply  Jul 30, 2011 - 11:51am PT
Sol, thanks for the offer, i'll give it a try. i haven't been there in maybe twenty years - that streak should end. Do you need bc permits to climb there?

say hi to victor
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jul 30, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
Super TR. I'm going to make my supertopo presence as the guy who parrots Clint Cummins, but it's a mean tease to throw out "starting the blockbuster "Supercrack of the Coast Range" pitch - 30 meters perfect hands, 25 meters perfect fingers" with no photos.

Yes must curb my enthusiasm for "a chick cranks a wide crack!". That E. Face of Lexington has been my favorite climb of modern times just due to my current climbing level. Did she do the wide pitch as one long 80M one?

Thanks!!!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Author's Reply  Jul 30, 2011 - 01:35pm PT
super crack starts at the roof . you can't see the last half of the pi...
super crack starts at the roof . you can't see the last half of the pitch
Credit: Bruce Kay

sorry to tease but its hard to get a decent pic from under the roof.

by the way, here is the wall in the winter. The climbing is very good when its in.

winter. two routes are obvious
winter. two routes are obvious
Credit: Bruce Kay

Also here is Sprung C*#k Erect (which crosses Springbok Arrete ) a Macgee, bubba, kruk route on Les cornes. It is excellent crack climbing bottom to top

sprung c*#k pitch 3
sprung c*#k pitch 3
Credit: Bruce Kay

crux pitch sprung cock. A real barn burner - 11+
crux pitch sprung cock. A real barn burner - 11+
Credit: Bruce Kay
Prod

Trad climber
  Jul 30, 2011 - 01:55pm PT
Bruce,

That looks like a awesome place to play.

Thanks for posting up.

Prod.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Dec 22, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
Never saw this before Bruce. Quality stuff man. Climbing, babes, sarcasm -can't not be a great tr without those three ingredients :-)


Edit- still gotta get up to that mouses tooth!!
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