Trip Report
A quick trip to the Valley for some crack.
Sunday January 17, 2010 11:31am
Who loves crack? I do! So does Fred Glover, Mike Rael and James. We decided it was high time to hit Yosemite. Hoping for some good weather, we drove across the state, making sure to hit every traffic jam we could on the way. On the list for the weekend; Generator Crack for some wide training, New Diversions Cliff, and then Reeds Pinnacle on sunday.
Camp 4 is awesome in winter, nobody there!
Camp 4 is awesome in winter, nobody there!
Credit: karodrinker
Generator Crack Grovel Fest
Generator Crack Grovel Fest
Credit: karodrinker
James using his 5 tennies
James using his 5 tennies
Credit: karodrinker
New Diversions, sinkin solid fist jams and placing big gear on the fir...
New Diversions, sinkin solid fist jams and placing big gear on the first 5.9 section.
Credit: karodrinker
This climb is the shizzle.  So much fun.
This climb is the shizzle. So much fun.
Credit: karodrinker
Fred leading up Chicken Pie, pretty sustained liebacking to fun knobs.
Fred leading up Chicken Pie, pretty sustained liebacking to fun knobs.
Credit: karodrinker
Mike on New Diversions, tying off knobs on the traverse.
Mike on New Diversions, tying off knobs on the traverse.
Credit: karodrinker
Steve the Shipoopi's camp was still up on el cap tower.
Steve the Shipoopi's camp was still up on el cap tower.
Credit: karodrinker
I love winter.
I love winter.
Credit: karodrinker
Reeds Direct, how many jams can you handle?
Reeds Direct, how many jams can you handle?
Credit: karodrinker
James leading pitch 1 of reeds regular.
James leading pitch 1 of reeds regular.
Credit: karodrinker
Fred leading p 2 of reeds regular
Fred leading p 2 of reeds regular
Credit: karodrinker
Mike got to lead pitch 3 of reeds direct.
Mike got to lead pitch 3 of reeds direct.
Credit: karodrinker
fred and james attempted the tunnel through.  yikes!
fred and james attempted the tunnel through. yikes!
Credit: karodrinker
What a weekend.

  Trip Report Views: 2,574
karodrinker
About the Author
Kalen Glenn is a trad climber, skateboarder, surfer and father from San Jose, CA.

Comments
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rhyang

climber
SJC
  Jan 17, 2010 - 02:10pm PT
Good stuff !
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jan 17, 2010 - 05:23pm PT
attempted?

I don't think I'll ever do that thing. skeers me.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Jan 17, 2010 - 05:27pm PT
Dang! That Valley is so fricken cool, eh?
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Author's Reply  Jan 17, 2010 - 07:42pm PT
Yep, both James and Fred attempted the tunnel. Both turned back. Sure looked tiny in there! A climber that was at reeds said his partner got stuck in there. A skinny kid climbed under the stuck climber and assisted with a shoulderstand. Pretty scary place. I'm glad our route went up the chimney. Rather climb a 5.10 offwidth than that creepy tunnel.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Jan 17, 2010 - 06:45pm PT
Excellent! Beat's curled up watching movies....
msiddens

Trad climber
  Jan 17, 2010 - 08:03pm PT
Nice pull in the winter! PS, did the tunnel and found it fun and a good finish to an adventure
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Author's Reply  Jan 18, 2010 - 12:56am PT
msiddens, did you go high or low through the tunnel. They tried both ways, I think the high road was the way to go? What a crag, that whole exfoliating flake that makes up reeds pinnacle is hollow all the way through. Crazy echo chamber
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
  Jan 18, 2010 - 10:22am PT
Yo
Kalen
great trip report
James is James Nolting.
Definitely going to finish the Reed's tunnel next trip. James and I were weighing the probability of both of us getting through the tunnel before dark and decided to bail. James had found the way, he went high at the narrows and then back down further on. Looked like there was no more pro from his cam that fell out at 1/2 distance and the end. So we agreed he should turn around and we'll do it next time for sure.
Definitely do-able with an earlier start.

The first pitch and the tunnel were James' 3rd and 4th leads ever. He's learning fast.

James top roped the right side up to the offwidth while you and Mike were rapping. Thanks for leaving the rope up for us.

That approach from the Reed's turnout definitely needs some work. I'm not in favor of altering the landscape but the hazard to cars from falling rock really needs mitigating.
We accidentally knocked off a REALLY big boulder that would've done serious damage to a car. Kalen and James got it out of the road pronto. Good thing there was very little traffic that evening.

Someone with a lot more experience with the hike up should chime in on the best path and the best way to mark it. The SuperTopo directions are inadequate.

Dinner at Priest Station at top of Priest Grade was a fine finish. Conrad Anker's sister Denise, brother Steve, their Mom and one or two employees make it all happen. Great food with good variety. And stay away from Mom's pies and pastries if you expect to maintain your weight ;) Very nice folks, excellent view. Open till 8PM every night.

Fred
Zander

climber
  Jan 18, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
Nice!
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Jan 18, 2010 - 04:38pm PT
I went across, up, than down, was contemplating more across when I freaked out and backed out five minutes of climbing in about six seconds. Can't really say because the claustraphobia (sp) kicked an I don't remember much of the climb back out.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jan 19, 2010 - 01:00pm PT

Thanks!

JOEY.F

Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
  Jan 19, 2010 - 07:22pm PT
Super!
thanks for some "cool" inspiration.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Jan 21, 2010 - 09:44am PT
New Diversions looks excellent. I never did that one, and now here I am stuck on the wrong continent!
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Jan 22, 2010 - 12:44pm PT
great report! nice shots. thanks
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Jan 25, 2010 - 02:16pm PT
Tunnel-through is fun... just be willing to go up & down tracking the wider spots, rather than straight across and getting stuck. Extra slings to hang your helmet and gear below your feet is mandatory.

Nice pics to carry us through the winter!
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Author's Reply  Jan 25, 2010 - 02:38pm PT
Im glad we went when we did! Weather has been relentless lately (for us anyways, I know we still have it better than most here in California). The view counter feature is great, who would have thought 700 people would want to look at my weekend pics? It's strangely rewarding...
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jan 26, 2010 - 10:09pm PT
Excellent adventure fellas. Good on ya.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jan 27, 2010 - 01:03pm PT
GOOD WORK MEN!
Quality routes every one of those!
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
  Jan 28, 2010 - 08:48am PT
Right on. I was there 2 weeks ago. And will be back for the duration soon...

kev
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2010 - 11:35pm PT
Thanks gentlemen. Kev, you get to go to the valley "for the duration" huh. that must be tough...
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Author's Reply  Oct 19, 2010 - 12:03am PT
Hey Fred, have you been back to the tunnel?
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
  Jan 23, 2013 - 09:38am PT
nice crack!!!
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