A quick trip to the Valley for some crack.

Trip Report

Sunday January 17, 2010 11:31am

Who loves crack? I do! So does Fred Glover, Mike Rael and James. We decided it was high time to hit Yosemite. Hoping for some good weather, we drove across the state, making sure to hit every traffic jam we could on the way. On the list for the weekend; Generator Crack for some wide training, New Diversions Cliff, and then Reeds Pinnacle on sunday.


	Camp 4 is awesome in winter, nobody there! Credit: karodrinker


	Generator Crack Grovel Fest Credit: karodrinker


	James using his 5 tennies Credit: karodrinker


	New Diversions, sinkin solid fist jams and placing big gear on the first 5.9 section. Credit: karodrinker


	This climb is the shizzle. So much fun. Credit: karodrinker


	Fred leading up Chicken Pie, pretty sustained liebacking to fun knobs. Credit: karodrinker


	Mike on New Diversions, tying off knobs on the traverse. Credit: karodrinker


	Steve the Shipoopi's camp was still up on el cap tower. Credit: karodrinker


	I love winter. Credit: karodrinker


	Reeds Direct, how many jams can you handle? Credit: karodrinker


	James leading pitch 1 of reeds regular. Credit: karodrinker


	Fred leading p 2 of reeds regular Credit: karodrinker


	Mike got to lead pitch 3 of reeds direct. Credit: karodrinker


	fred and james attempted the tunnel through. yikes! Credit: karodrinker

What a weekend.

Trip Report Views: 2,467

karodrinker

About the Author
Kalen Glenn is a trad climber, skateboarder, surfer and father from San Jose, CA.

Comments

Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...

Comment on this Trip Report

rhyang

climber

SJC

Jan 17, 2010 - 02:10pm PT

Good stuff !

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Jan 17, 2010 - 05:23pm PT

attempted?

I don't think I'll ever do that thing. skeers me.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Jan 17, 2010 - 05:27pm PT

Dang! That Valley is so fricken cool, eh?

karodrinker

Trad climber

San Jose, CA

Author's Reply

Jan 17, 2010 - 07:42pm PT

Yep, both James and Fred attempted the tunnel. Both turned back. Sure looked tiny in there! A climber that was at reeds said his partner got stuck in there. A skinny kid climbed under the stuck climber and assisted with a shoulderstand. Pretty scary place. I'm glad our route went up the chimney. Rather climb a 5.10 offwidth than that creepy tunnel.

Roxy

Trad climber

CA Central Coast

Jan 17, 2010 - 06:45pm PT

Excellent! Beat's curled up watching movies....

msiddens

Trad climber

Jan 17, 2010 - 08:03pm PT

Nice pull in the winter! PS, did the tunnel and found it fun and a good finish to an adventure

karodrinker

Trad climber

San Jose, CA

Author's Reply

Jan 18, 2010 - 12:56am PT

msiddens, did you go high or low through the tunnel. They tried both ways, I think the high road was the way to go? What a crag, that whole exfoliating flake that makes up reeds pinnacle is hollow all the way through. Crazy echo chamber

HighTraverse

Trad climber

Bay Area

Jan 18, 2010 - 10:22am PT

Yo
Kalen
great trip report
James is James Nolting.
Definitely going to finish the Reed's tunnel next trip. James and I were weighing the probability of both of us getting through the tunnel before dark and decided to bail. James had found the way, he went high at the narrows and then back down further on. Looked like there was no more pro from his cam that fell out at 1/2 distance and the end. So we agreed he should turn around and we'll do it next time for sure.
Definitely do-able with an earlier start.

The first pitch and the tunnel were James' 3rd and 4th leads ever. He's learning fast.

James top roped the right side up to the offwidth while you and Mike were rapping. Thanks for leaving the rope up for us.

That approach from the Reed's turnout definitely needs some work. I'm not in favor of altering the landscape but the hazard to cars from falling rock really needs mitigating.
We accidentally knocked off a REALLY big boulder that would've done serious damage to a car. Kalen and James got it out of the road pronto. Good thing there was very little traffic that evening.

Someone with a lot more experience with the hike up should chime in on the best path and the best way to mark it. The SuperTopo directions are inadequate.

Dinner at Priest Station at top of Priest Grade was a fine finish. Conrad Anker's sister Denise, brother Steve, their Mom and one or two employees make it all happen. Great food with good variety. And stay away from Mom's pies and pastries if you expect to maintain your weight ;) Very nice folks, excellent view. Open till 8PM every night.

Fred

Zander

climber

Jan 18, 2010 - 01:46pm PT

Nice!

tom woods

Gym climber

Bishop, CA

Jan 18, 2010 - 04:38pm PT

I went across, up, than down, was contemplating more across when I freaked out and backed out five minutes of climbing in about six seconds. Can't really say because the claustraphobia (sp) kicked an I don't remember much of the climb back out.

le_bruce

climber

Oakland, CA

Jan 19, 2010 - 01:00pm PT

Thanks!

JOEY.F

Gym climber

It's not rocket surgery

Jan 19, 2010 - 07:22pm PT

Super!
thanks for some "cool" inspiration.

mcreel

climber

Barcelona

Jan 21, 2010 - 09:44am PT

New Diversions looks excellent. I never did that one, and now here I am stuck on the wrong continent!

Mike Bolte

Trad climber

Planet Earth

Jan 22, 2010 - 12:44pm PT

great report! nice shots. thanks

nutjob

Sport climber

Almost to Hollywood, Baby!

Jan 25, 2010 - 02:16pm PT

Tunnel-through is fun... just be willing to go up & down tracking the wider spots, rather than straight across and getting stuck. Extra slings to hang your helmet and gear below your feet is mandatory.

Nice pics to carry us through the winter!

karodrinker

Trad climber

San Jose, CA

Author's Reply

Jan 25, 2010 - 02:38pm PT

Im glad we went when we did! Weather has been relentless lately (for us anyways, I know we still have it better than most here in California). The view counter feature is great, who would have thought 700 people would want to look at my weekend pics? It's strangely rewarding...