The Nose 5.14a or 5.9 C2

  • Currently 5.0/5

El Capitan

Yosemite Valley, California USA

Trip Report
A jumarless Nose with my son
Tuesday July 11, 2017 12:40am
An excellent day with my son on the Captain:


Credit: Jim Herson

  Trip Report Views: 4,083
Jim Herson
About the Author
Jim Herson is a climber from Emerald Hills, CA.

wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
  Jul 11, 2017 - 01:29am PT
Huge congratulations to Connor, you earned that nap!

As stellar a crew as you could hope to find, on a truly memorable day!!

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Jul 11, 2017 - 02:05am PT
Nice job teaching traditions, Tevya.

And it's likely that Mr. Wolf would dig the heck out of that cleaning job, eh?
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

Out Of Bed
  Jul 11, 2017 - 03:36am PT
Totally Jello, wow I think this is an awesome thing !

  Jul 11, 2017 - 03:54am PT
Wow, awesome. Thanks for sharing!
Q- Ball

Mountain climber
but to scared to climb them anymore
  Jul 11, 2017 - 05:46am PT
Wow!!! Put a huge smile on my face reading this!!! Great job.

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
  Jul 11, 2017 - 06:12am PT
I got nothing but +1 +1 +1. Awesome.
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
  Jul 11, 2017 - 06:53am PT
Another amazing TR from the Mutant Family. Great stuff. But the crowds on the Nose! Oy!


Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Jul 11, 2017 - 06:57am PT
NICE! A wonderful story well told. TFPU!
Flip Flop

Earth Planet, Universe
  Jul 11, 2017 - 07:14am PT
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
  Jul 11, 2017 - 07:45am PT
What a great story! Made my whole morning coffee break. BTW, your family really IS mutant - way to go!

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
  Jul 11, 2017 - 08:01am PT
I wanna see his "Back to School/What I Did With My Summer" essay. Will you have to explain to his teacher what it all means ;)
Mark Sensenbach

  Jul 11, 2017 - 08:06am PT

Just livin' the dream
  Jul 11, 2017 - 08:40am PT
This thing was so good, I could've kept reading for hours!

Looking forward to the Salathe TR...:-)


Social climber
  Jul 11, 2017 - 08:44am PT

Ice climber
hartford, ct
  Jul 11, 2017 - 08:49am PT
That was great... esp your son's exclamation of how cool the water bottle looked exploding below....


  Jul 11, 2017 - 09:16am PT
Bad ass !!!!

  Jul 11, 2017 - 09:32am PT
So amazing!

Grizzlyville, WY
  Jul 11, 2017 - 09:47am PT
That is the best thing I've seen in awhile.

Thanks for sharing!


Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
  Jul 11, 2017 - 10:42am PT
What Werner said........BAD ASS!!

A mountain of treasured memories building.....ARRRGGG!! :)

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Jul 11, 2017 - 10:44am PT
After the first ascent, Wayne Merry made a comment to the effect that it was such a long, hard slog, it seemed he was saying it would not be that enjoyable for a lot of folks. To see a happy middle schooler do it with so much fun and exhuberance is really cool!
Burnin' Oil

Trad climber
  Jul 11, 2017 - 11:58am PT
Awesome as usual.

Mountain climber
  Jul 11, 2017 - 05:10pm PT
Such a fun, inspiring, and hilarious writeup!

Based on Alex Lowe's definition and your attitude Connor, you are one of the "best climbers in the world" :-)
smith curry

  Jul 11, 2017 - 12:29pm PT
So badass
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Jul 11, 2017 - 01:18pm PT
Love it.......what a great thing to share with your son and with all of us. Keep us posted!!!

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Jul 11, 2017 - 01:36pm PT
Hey thanks for that! You gots to be proud.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Jul 11, 2017 - 02:55pm PT
Wow...child's play!

mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Jul 11, 2017 - 03:30pm PT
Another great report!!!
Mike Honcho

Trad climber
Glenwood Springs, CO
  Jul 11, 2017 - 03:31pm PT
Werner said it 1st, Bad Ass!!!

Oakland, CA
  Jul 11, 2017 - 04:04pm PT
Love it. Love it! Once I pick my jaw up off the floor at the what has been pulled off, the Herson TR's always leave me grinning. The vibes are so blindingly bright with this family. Thank you for sharing and please, always, more!

I view water not so much as essential for sustaining life, but rather as a moral hazard. Give the kids a glass of water and soon there is an expectation of nutrition. That can only lead to a sense of entitlement for a rain jacket that repels water. And eventually the kids are going to ask for a headlamp that works. Best to avoid even starting down that path.


But Tim didn't????

I'm thinking Tim could have probably swooped into the Valley to refresh/replace your water bottles, but he had to think of the moral hazard of doing so! Made the right call in the end.

(Have to guess that this is the Tim and Jason of campfire lore that fired the Nose and Salathe in a casual day a while back? Climbers of steel abound in this TR, starting with Connor and extending to the lesser/grayer cast beneath him.)

  Jul 11, 2017 - 04:48pm PT
Jim, I'm amazed by the natural ability of your kids, and also by your natural ability as a leader and facilitator to them. Inspiring work – TFPU!

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jul 11, 2017 - 04:56pm PT
Amazing....thanks for sharing!

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jul 11, 2017 - 05:27pm PT
On the "Impressive Scale" this falls just above Honnold's Freesolo and slightly below the recent All Nude Ascent in my opinion. Absolutely rad. Thanks for the fantastic report.
c wilmot

  Jul 11, 2017 - 06:11pm PT
Like everyone else- very impressive. Your son has maturity beyond his years to handle such an undertaking. I bet part of the reason he is so happy is that you have not taught him to be negative.

Well done to both of you

Social climber
San Francity, CA
  Jul 11, 2017 - 06:53pm PT

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
  Jul 11, 2017 - 08:46pm PT
You rock Conner!!!

You too Pop!

Grey Matter
  Jul 12, 2017 - 12:39pm PT
Any chance you could adopt another child? (somewhat older than the others)

Big Wall climber
  Jul 12, 2017 - 05:47pm PT

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
  Jul 12, 2017 - 07:19pm PT
Thank you! A wonderful read.

bay area
  Jul 12, 2017 - 09:08pm PT

holy f-ing crap, yet again. herson clan wins. so so awesome.
Tom Patterson

Trad climber
  Jul 12, 2017 - 09:30pm PT
^^^ What everyone else said!
Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
  Jul 12, 2017 - 11:32pm PT
The sweetest words a parent could hear "Dad, can we climb the Salathe?"
Spectacular effort guys.

All the best,

  Jul 13, 2017 - 12:18am PT
Thanks, Jim, for the great read.

Cheers to great times with one's kids.
Vlad Pricker

Mountain climber
The cliffs of insanity, inconceivable
  Jul 13, 2017 - 03:03am PT
Well done. Great TR. So, Salathé next?

Trad climber
Atlanta, GA
  Jul 20, 2017 - 10:08am PT
Wow! Really incredible for that young man! Great job, Dad.

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
  Jul 20, 2017 - 02:47pm PT
An excellent day

Excellence and Herson are synonyms.
El Capitan - The Nose 5.14a or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The Nose—the best rock climb in the world!
Photo: Mark Kroese
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El Capitan - Freerider 5.12D - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
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The Salathé Wall ascends the most natural line up El Cap.
El Capitan - Zodiac A2 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
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1800' of fantastic climbing.
El Capitan - Salathe Wall 5.13b or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Salathe Wall, 5.13b or 5.9 C2
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The Salathé Wall ascends the most natural line up El Cap.
El Capitan - Lurking Fear C2F 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Lurking Fear, C2F 5.7
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Lurking Fear is route number 1.
El Capitan - East Buttress 5.10b - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
East Buttress, 5.10b
El Capitan
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East Buttress with top of The Nose on left.
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