Trip Report
A couple days on the Eastside, and the livin's easy...

by WML
Sunday June 10, 2012 12:20pm
The Eastside is without a doubt one of my favorite places on Earth. The laid back vibe, plethora of easy bivi/camping options, incredible weather, and embarrassment of riches in terms of variety of climbing you can participate in always succeeds in getting me pretty fired up.

About 10 months ago I took my first wander into Pine Creek Canyon after being curious about it for a while. I took a buddy up Racing Lizards for one of his first climbs and was very pleased with what I found.

Fast forward beyond a few more trips to PC and here I am at the end of my employment (done June 30), working part-time and done with school. Jeremy ends up getting in touch with me since he is visiting from Washington to see family in Reno/Truckee via my thread:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1818441&tn=0&mr=0

Thursday morning we load up my truck and point it South on 395.

Jeremy had never climbed trad before but had experience sport climbing, and was mega psyched. 213 recommended a climb he had been looking at on Mountain Project that had a ton of variety to it and a short crux section with most of the climbing being very moderate at 5.8/9.

Chips Off the 'Ol Block
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/chips-off-the-ol-block/106389196

Before I start about the route, I have GOT to give a TON of credit to Tai and all of the other Bishop locals making it happen at Pine Creek. Not only are they putting up high quality routes, they are putting up very user-friendly high quality routes and doing a ton of work beyond the route itself. The trail work they have done out there is first rate, and the fact that these guys are so psyched to have people climb and enjoy their routes is VERY awesome.

Enough rambling, time for some action...

After a short approach we are greeted by the most obvious line at the Scheelite Wall, a 300+ foot right-facing corner:

Looking up the dihedral that contains pitches 1-3
Looking up the dihedral that contains pitches 1-3
Credit: WML

We racked up and pounded some water, the first pitch went quickly. Fun climbing in a flare with awesome jams and stemming

Jeremy working up P1
Jeremy working up P1
Credit: WML


Jeremy cruised P1, at that point I knew he would be fine learning trad, as he followed quickly and had no problems jamming or working his way through the super fun flare.


Pitch 2 was fun climbing with a couple of moves over a roof (5.9) and then easy cruising to the anchors for P3.


P3 was super fun, with some interesting climbing leading to a wide section (5.9) to bring you on to a nice ledge at the top of the corner.

Grippin' the grain
Grippin' the grain
Credit: WML


Since I throw the comb away...
Since I throw the comb away...
Credit: WML


On Pitch 4 I managed to wander off and we wound up doing a bit of a variation. Head right from the belay into a cool jam/LB corner and then on to high quality slabby face on the slab visible up and right of the belay was very fun, pro was a bit sparse. Maybe 5.6/7R? Could be easier, could be harder. Who knows. On rappel the stellar hand crack on P4 looked way fun. Next time!

The ledge you get to hang out on, where P4 ends, is palatial and super nice to hang out on.

Jeremy hanging out on the huge ledge at the end of P4.  The crux can b...
Jeremy hanging out on the huge ledge at the end of P4. The crux can be seen on the far right hand side of the first step of rock in the foreground. P6 is the obvious water groove on the second tier behind Jeremy
Credit: WML

The views aren't anything to complain about, either.

I'm blowin' smoke signals, now what's the opposite of low?
I'm blowin' smoke signals, now what's the opposite of low?
Credit: WML


After hanging out on the ledge and enjoying views, being glad neither one of us dislodged any of the death blocks waiting on the edge of the ledge, and generally having a laugh, off we went on to P5!

Backstrokin'! Still copin'
Backstrokin'! Still copin'
Credit: WML


P5 was very fun, with an awesome crux and fun finish.


Notes:

We only did 5 of 6 pitches, since the photo topo I had indicated it would require two raps from the top of 6. This is not the case, as there are intermediate anchors. Had I known this, definitely would have cruised up the last pitch - it looked awesome! The pitches are short (30 meters or so) and you can rap the route with a single 60. We rapped with a single 70 and I would assume that with a 60 it would be rather close, so tie knots in the ends of your rope if you do it with a 60. This route was VERY fun, and people would be lining up to epic on it if it were in Yosemite Valley.


After hitting the taco truck in Bishop (not sure of the name of the place, AWESOME burritos and tacos) and listening to a local (driving a jacked up pick-up truck with camo paint, awesome) haggling the owner, attempting to get him to sell him 50 tamales for $1.00 each (listed price of $1.75) to no avail, we wandered around town for a bit and then crashed.

On the menu the next morning was The Gong Show Crag.

Main Attraction
Main Attraction
Credit: WML

We climbed the first pitch of the Main Attraction (very fun!) and then the good weather, fine views, and the continued buzz of psyche from how good yesterday's climb was took over and turned us a bit lethargic to anything resembling work. Lounging occurred. We decided we might as well clip some bolts, so Jeremy took off and climbed Grab A Handful, a fun sport climb

Lagartija mode
Lagartija mode
Credit: WML

Struggle day and night but refuse to lose in this fight
Struggle day and night but refuse to lose in this fight
Credit: WML


Note: There were two notable and random rockfall occurrences while we were up there and nobody else around. Be careful.

We hiked out and were sure to thoroughly enjoy the water features on the way out while crossing Rock Creek....

Every morning when I go to the river, I know that I am truly free....
Every morning when I go to the river, I know that I am truly free....
Credit: WML

And the cycle pedals on...
And the cycle pedals on...
Credit: WML

After getting back to the car we met up with some friends at the Bachar Boulders who had just arrived back from the Valley for a BS session, hit the MoMart for bbq chicken sandwiches w/fries and were treated to sunset as we drove through the Carson Valley, back to Reno. A quick, fun trip!

  Trip Report Views: 1,610
WML
About the Author
WML is a climber from Biggest Little City, NV.

Comments
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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Jun 10, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
so much to do,
so many places to go,

thanks for the TR for a place I'd like to have done more at sooner!

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
  Jun 10, 2012 - 12:40pm PT
looks good. whats the beta on all the new(er) routes in pine creek? I'll be there in a few days so i'm rather curious. The one pitch stuff is easy to figure out - its the multi pitch that looks good but needs a bit of beta.

edit: ah ha! I see your link. thank you.
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jun 10, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
Bruce, head down to Wilson's - they have topos you can copy and would be glad to chat with you about the routes and give recommendations. Everything they have recommended so far has been solid gold.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Jun 10, 2012 - 01:35pm PT
Nice Twinkle Brothers reference.

Those places are fun, right on.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jun 10, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
Nice! East side is GREAT! Wish I lived closer...
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
  Jun 10, 2012 - 05:07pm PT
Where is this "east side" of which you speak....sounds kinda cool.






















:)

Nice TR, WML!
east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
  Jun 10, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
livin' is easy on the Eastside ......... unless you need a JOB!.......eyeeeeee!
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jun 10, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
drjefe: glad you noticed that...The Twinkle Brothers are one of the best reggae groups of all time

Thanks, Vitaliy. I'm hoping I get to continue living this close once I get a job...here's to hoping, right?

Cragman, in the words of Snoop Dogg:

"And now I'm bout to get a whoopin, but you know I'm steady woofin
On the side where they ride the most
Eastside is the beach, westside is the coast"

Or something along those lines...



east side underground: I hear that brother, trying to find some gainful employment to keep me in the area...hopefully it materializes.

Thank you all for the comments, I appreciate it...this is my first TR.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 11, 2012 - 08:32am PT
Very cool, thanks for the nice TR!
Beautiful stone!
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jun 11, 2012 - 04:35pm PT
Thanks man!
MooseTracks

Mountain climber
Bishop, CA
  Jun 13, 2012 - 07:57am PT
Nice work, Wes! Sorry I missed you!
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jun 13, 2012 - 09:55am PT
Thanks Laura! Next time for sure. Will actually be in the Meadows and possibly Eastsidin' with my Dad this weekend...hoping to take him up Cathedral for Father's Day. Might hit you up while in B-town meeting up with him (he is driving up from Vegas)
Mick K

climber
Northern Sierra
  Jun 13, 2012 - 10:02am PT
Leaving for the east side in just about 30 hours.

Oh-Yeah!
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jun 13, 2012 - 01:07pm PT
WOOHOO! Get psyched! I'm bummed right now that thanks to the forecast a planned return to Pine Creek isn't happening. Damn t-storms, will have to hit Black Wall at Donner instead...
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
  Jul 16, 2013 - 05:21pm PT
BBST!
gonzo chemist

climber
the east coast, for now.
  Jul 16, 2013 - 08:57pm PT
Yeah, man! Pine Creek Canyon is rad!

I also climbed at the Gong Show crag for the first time a couple weeks ago, and I was blown away with how good the rock is there. Another superb east side crag!

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