Triassic Sands 5.10c

 
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Whiskey Peak


Red Rocks, Nevada USA


Trip Report
A Turkey of a Las Vegas Thanksgiving - The Warrior, Triassic Sands, and more

by WML
Tuesday November 27, 2012 2:17am
In 2001 I moved from Loxahatchee, FL to Las Vegas, Nevada for high school - diametrically opposed places. As I went through high school I did the typical high school kid thing - I played high school sports, did enough academically to get into college, and spent way too much time chasing girls. Little did I know that under a decade later I would be kicking myself for what I missed out on while living just 10 minutes from the entrance to the Red Rock NCA Scenic Loop.

This Thanksgiving, like many others, I made the drive from my current home of Reno to Vegas. I arrived on a Friday afternoon and immediately went to meet up with a former high school wrestling teammate of mine, Jon, and went bouldering at the Kraft boulders. No pictures from this session as we were short on daylight and I wanted to maximize the climbing we could get in. I spoke briefly with Jon to see what he had done before in the area roped and decided that we should get on a new four pitch sport route (5.9) the next morning, The Big Bad Wolf.
Looking down the upper portion of P2 of The Big Bad Wolf
Looking down the upper portion of P2 of The Big Bad Wolf
Credit: WML
Vanity strikes at the belay
Vanity strikes at the belay
Credit: WML
Jon enjoying where the route goes from steep to slab
Jon enjoying where the route goes from steep to slab
Credit: WML
Very fun mellow movement
Very fun mellow movement
Credit: WML

We did the route in two pitches linking 1 and 2 and 3 and 4, 4 really is just easy fifth so you can walk off with no worries. All nice, new bolted anchors.

Views from Red Rock always offer an interesting juxtapose of urban int...
Views from Red Rock always offer an interesting juxtapose of urban interface with wilderness.
Credit: WML

I had made plans with another buddy of mine, Dave, who is in dental school in Vegas, to go climb Triassic Sands that afternoon. After Jon and I finished The Big Bad Wolf, I went to the usual meet-up spot to meet up with Dave. He was a bit late out of his clinical that day, so we booked it over to the Black Velvet Canyon parking zone. After a short, slightly grunty approach and waiting for a party to rap, we got to get on Triassic. Sorry for the lack of Triassic photos, we only climbed the first two pitches (limited daylight) and only had one camera among the two of us.

Heading into BV Canyon
Heading into BV Canyon
Credit: WML
Cool clouds and light, unfortunately the clouds kept things quite cool...
Cool clouds and light, unfortunately the clouds kept things quite cool in the canyon and the winds certainly assisted.
Credit: WML
Dave the Dental Student grinning because he knows the next pitch is go...
Dave the Dental Student grinning because he knows the next pitch is going to be a blast.
Credit: WML


The next day (Sunday, for those of you keeping track at home) Dave and I had planned to climb The Nightcrawler. However, cool temperatures paired with quite the breeze led us to seek the sun rather than the shade

Herro Mt. Wilson et al
Herro Mt. Wilson et al
Credit: WML
Love this place, so beautiful
Love this place, so beautiful
Credit: WML


There were some unsettling clouds in the back of Pine Creek Canyon, as we were going to climb Orange Clonus but decided against it due to some ominous clouds and wound up climbing two fun, mellow climbs instead. Topless Twins (5.9) and Doin' The Good Drive (5.9).

rapping topless after some laps
rapping topless after some laps
Credit: WML
Looking up at Doin The Good Drive, what a blast
Looking up at Doin The Good Drive, what a blast
Credit: WML

We had initially wanted to climb Stick Left after a brief lunch but were unable to find it, so we wound up at Doin' The Good Drive - and were not disappointed.

While Topless and Straight Shooter get most of the single pitch .9 hype in the area, I feel that Doin The Good Drive is one of the better single pitch .9's I have done in the area. Well-varied and heads up in some areas.

That concluded our day of climbing on Sunday, the next two days I went mountain biking after work.

Two highlights of this, only one I have a picture of. The first being taking my Dad (56 years old) out on his first mountain bike ride, and him doing very well and loving it (pictured below)

Padre pedaling
Padre pedaling
Credit: WML

The next was to get to ride with my friends Brandon and Lee, two brothers I have been close with since high school. Due to life circumstances, I hadn't seen Lee in probably four years and got to see him and pedal with he and his brother, what a blast. Lee's son was born the day I came into town, so I assumed he wouldn't be able to get out and ride, but thankfully he did.

Wednesday I met up with someone I had been in touch with intermittently and it just seemed that dates never managed to work out. Xavier is a friend of mine from high school's Dad and we wound up meeting via Facebook. He is also a super strong climber and more importantly, a first class guy. We decided to go climb the Risk Brothers Roof, because it had intrigued both of us for a while.

Xavier on the super fun Risk Brothers Roof
Xavier on the super fun Risk Brothers Roof
Credit: WML

After climbing the roof we agreed to go through with the climb we had discussed doing in advance, getting on The Warrior on the Cactus Flower Tower

For me, this was the 'main event' of my trip - a climb only a year or two ago I fell in love with after seeing the compelling photos of a beautiful flaring corner in the Handren guide. Making a "dream climb" happen, in any capacity, is something incredibly fulfilling.

All that stood between us and The Warrior was Thanksgiving. While no photos were taken of the food consumed (at least at my Dad's place), one of his dog's inability to move from the base of the stairs summed it up:

Gunther in a turkey coma
Gunther in a turkey coma
Credit: WML

Fast forward to 3:30am Friday morning, my alarm is going off. Time to microwave some breakfast sandwiches, down some tea, and meet Xavier at Albertsons.

We get to the Oak Creek trailhead quicker than expected due to the gates having been left open due to a free entrance day the previous day and take off to The Warrior!!!!!

The eerie glow of Las Vegas in the background whenever you are climbing at Red Rock and are out when it is dark, whether early or late, is always quite the trip.

Headlamp approaches into new lands
Headlamp approaches into new lands
Credit: WML

In Search of Sunrise
In Search of Sunrise
Credit: WML

Xavier on the approach, which I would not want to reverse in the dark
Xavier on the approach, which I would not want to reverse in the dark
Credit: WML

Xavier taking off on the first pitch
Xavier taking off on the first pitch
Credit: WML

Can't help but smile after that good of a chimney pitch
Can't help but smile after that good of a chimney pitch
Credit: WML

No pictures of the second pitch due to burl/spook factor, highly attentive belays required - plus a good portion of the pitch is out of view of the belay at either end. Heads up climbing leads to an offwidth to a hand crack to a chimney. Outstanding and burly pitch...hell, the whole climb was burly.

Xavier leading the STELLAR third pitch
Xavier leading the STELLAR third pitch
Credit: WML

They aren't kidding about bringing many #3's for the third pitch
They aren't kidding about bringing many #3's for the third pitch
Credit: WML

Me following P3, Photo credit: Xavier
Me following P3, Photo credit: Xavier
Credit: WML

Such a beautiful corner and it climbs SO well
Such a beautiful corner and it climbs SO well
Credit: WML

good jams and physical climbing all the way to the belay
good jams and physical climbing all the way to the belay
Credit: WML

Glad to be done with the incredible but physical third pitch
Glad to be done with the incredible but physical third pitch
Credit: WML

The fourth pitch was a very interesting one, and certainly keeps the adventure vibe of this whole climb alive. You climb up and then eventually through a bird's nest of some sort (unoccupied), out to some physical and unique climbing to the belay.

Xavier heading up on the fourth pitch
Xavier heading up on the fourth pitch
Credit: WML

one of the shots Xavier took leading through the Bird's Nest
one of the shots Xavier took leading through the Bird's Nest
Credit: WML

Another shot Xavier took leading through the bird's nest
Another shot Xavier took leading through the bird's nest
Credit: WML

Sustained moves on the fourth pitch
Sustained moves on the fourth pitch
Credit: WML

Aesthetic movement in an incredible position
Aesthetic movement in an incredible position
Credit: WML

Surprise at the end of the fourth pitch, more wide!
Surprise at the end of the fourth pitch, more wide!
Credit: WML

Xavier at the end of the fourth pitch
Xavier at the end of the fourth pitch
Credit: WML

At this point we decided it would be best to go down, given the time of day it was and the low sun angle this time of year. The 5.11a pitch above, which many say isn't even the crux (they claim the third pitch 10d is), looked beautiful. However, with a non-trivial descent through new territory for us, we made the prudent decision and rapped the route. What an incredible route it was, definitely a Top 3 route for me.

View of the third pitch from the rap
View of the third pitch from the rap
Credit: WML

Grinning because we got to climb an excellent route and had an excelle...
Grinning because we got to climb an excellent route and had an excellent adventure
Credit: WML

Looming shadows as we packed our bags at the base
Looming shadows as we packed our bags at the base
Credit: WML

View down the lower portion of the approach/descent gully.
View down the lower portion of the approach/descent gully.
Credit: WML


We got back to the car right as the sun was going down, a full day of adventure. I went back to my Dad's house and sat in the hot tub for a while, as I knew my muscles would be quite sore after the physical climbing of the day. The next morning I packed up, had a great breakfast burrito at Roberto's Taco Shop (highly recommended when in Vegas - for anything, open 24 hrs) and rumbled North back home to Reno and my amazing girlfriend.

Special thanks to Xavier for leading The Warrior, for Dave and Jon for giving me a catch on everything earlier on, to Jeff for letting me borrow some extra cams so I had triples on Triassic and to my Dad and Step-Mom for putting me up and feeding me well. Oh, and for my awesome girlfriend allowing me to escape Reno for a week to play/visit family. I truly am blessed.

  Trip Report Views: 2,417
WML
About the Author
WML is a purveyor of margaritas and diet mountain dew (although not together) who lives in Reno

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
DerekCl

Trad climber
Altanta
  Nov 27, 2012 - 07:46am PT
Great Trip Report. Looks like an awesome early winter destination!
Tork

climber
Yosemite
  Nov 27, 2012 - 09:17am PT
The Warrior. Does that look sweet. Thanks for the share. Two of those climbs you did were on my list and now I have to add The Good Drive.
thedogfather

Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
  Nov 27, 2012 - 09:17am PT
Full value for sure.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Nov 27, 2012 - 09:35am PT
SWEET!
Thanks for sharing,
Tad
Hoots

climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  Nov 27, 2012 - 10:16am PT
Yeah buddy! The Warrior looks SO good. We rapped past it when we climbed Cinnamon Hedgehog and I remember thinking that a terydactyl or something must live in that huge nest! Great photos too.
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
  Nov 27, 2012 - 10:23am PT
Glad you guys had a great time, Thanks for the TR and cool pics.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Nov 27, 2012 - 11:18am PT
Nice TR, wow, the Warrior. How many pitches is the entire route? Thanks for the share.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
  Nov 27, 2012 - 11:18am PT
Thanks for the RR stoke. Be heading that way soon I hope.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Nov 27, 2012 - 11:44am PT
Cool report, thank you for sharing. Must get out to RR at some point, looks fantastic!
PS: That dog had a little too much food lol
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Nov 27, 2012 - 11:59am PT
Proud work, Weston!
gonzo chemist

climber
the east coast, for now.
  Nov 27, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
Great to see people getting on The Warrior! Its a burly classic for sure.

the giant bird cave thing is crazy!

The whole climb is 7 pitches. But beware the last two pitches. Each is long, and there's almost no pro on either.

I wrote up a description of the climb 4 or 5 years ago (before it was listed in the newer guidebook) and put it up on MP.com. Superb climb.

I thought the P5 crux was much harder than the P3 hand/fist crack pitch.



Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  Nov 27, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
Geez WML;
You didn't even give me a call
and let me know you were in Vegas.

:(
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Nov 27, 2012 - 01:49pm PT
Thanks for sharing your adventures - it all looks great.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Nov 27, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
WOOOOOOOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!


So cool you got all that climbing in.


No pictures of the second pitch due to burl/spook factor, highly attentive belays required


Great comment! I understand completely.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Nov 27, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
Good stuff!
Roperunner

Trad climber
Anaheim,CA
  Nov 27, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
Nice work Wes.. Get er done!!
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Nov 27, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
Boy oh boy, does that look like a fun trip! Great pics!
Lovin' it....

Susan
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
  Nov 27, 2012 - 03:15pm PT
Hell yeah, Weston! Looks like so much fun. I have wanted to get on the Warrior for a while. YOU would love that climb....Mr Wide!

Lets go crush some oDub sometime!
-Roger
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 27, 2012 - 05:08pm PT
Looks like a great break!
You are very lucky!!!!
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Nov 27, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
Thanks everyone!

That Eagle Cave was so strange...but a very cool, adventurous portion of the climb.

Cosmic, I'll be down around Christmas - if the schedule isn't too slammed (depends on how long I will be around), I will give you a holler. Also, I am trying to relocate back to Vegas (better career opportunities down there) so I may be in touch then as well.

Roger, hell yeah brother lets get weird...er, WYDE!
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Nov 29, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
Throwing a few more pictures up I got in my e-mail from Joy, a friendly climber from Texas who snapped some shots of the Brass Wall. I'm in the red and am rigging to rap from the top of the route.

Brass Wall on a beautiful day
Brass Wall on a beautiful day
Credit: WML

Who's got two thumbs and is the red splotch in this shot?  This guy.
Who's got two thumbs and is the red splotch in this shot? This guy.
Credit: WML
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
  Nov 29, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
Great shots and report! You guys got it done in good style.

Good story about Topless Twins - was climbing out there with the FA of the route, and some visitors were enthusing to him about it. Wendell smiles, shrugs and says "Yeah I thought it was pretty good when I put it up in '86"...hehe. Gotta love The Dean.

Hope you make it back to visit Vegas again soon!
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Nov 29, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
Thanks man! Wendell is quite the character, a nice guy, and certainly can tell a story. Ran into him a few years ago (may have been the same day I bought the Handren guide) at Desert Rock Sports and chatted with him for a while. The Dean!

I should be making it down for some time around Christmas, now just gotta figure out what to climb then...
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Dec 14, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
Shameless bump for getting psyched prior to another trip down there for Christmas!
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
  Dec 14, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
Beautiful!
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Dec 14, 2012 - 05:57pm PT
Thanks!
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Dec 14, 2012 - 06:01pm PT
Great!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Feb 21, 2013 - 01:59am PT
Sick report Weston! Thanks! Can't wait to go send some harder stuff here!

Looks like we can rap that 5.9 route at calico with one 60m hopefully? If not we'll just walk off, no bigge..
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Feb 21, 2013 - 02:05am PT
Don't think she raps with a single 60. Walk off to it really is very simple and probably a lot faster. That is a popular route (5.9 multi-pitch sport route close to the road...) and I think the pulls on a few of the raps would be particularly poor. Just clip approach shoes to your harness and enjoy a cool little walk off. Plenty more in the area to keep yourself amused after that romp, too. Forget if I mentioned it in the TR but you can EASILY link it into 2 pitches.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Feb 21, 2013 - 02:06am PT
Yup you did and will do. Hoping to do it and pg tomorrow.
Johnny K.

climber
  Jul 16, 2013 - 07:15pm PT
UpClimbing
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jan 15, 2014 - 03:49pm PT
BBST!

Big Mike - hope you're healing well and would love to show ya Red Rock homie!
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Jan 18, 2014 - 10:06pm PT
double ropes is a great way to go,,,not so american in the old days,,but not alternating clips,more or less ,,how do you deal with the double twists i see in the photos???
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jan 20, 2014 - 11:40pm PT
Not sure we did too much about 'em, as they weren't problematic on that route. We were also clipping both strands into each piece, as the route didn't wander, not have I ever had a route wander in such a fashion that it demanded using them more as doubles as opposed to twins, which is how i use them.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Jan 26, 2014 - 05:41pm PT
Big Mike - hope you're healing well and would love to show ya Red Rock homie!

Ya buddy!! Doing good! Still need more training, but hey don't we all!! I think we're coming down again soon! Still trying to figure out whether it's gonna be mid feb or start of march. Dwain wants me to come to New Jack at the end of march for the party, but i'm not sure if i'm gonna be able to hold Kyle off that long.

We should definitely hook up, and i'm betting you and Kyle would be able to fire off some classics on my rest days.
10b4me

climber
  Mar 12, 2014 - 05:41pm PT
bump
portent

Social climber
your mom's house
  Apr 17, 2014 - 06:59pm PT
bump
thebravecowboy

climber
in the face of the fury of the funk
  Apr 17, 2014 - 07:00pm PT
i can see why he got deactivated, this TR is total SH#T.
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Photo: Greg Barnes
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