Trip Report
A Short Walk With Lt. Levi
Monday November 30, 2015 12:33pm
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Credit: survival
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Forgive me Gawd of Trad Climbing, for I have gone to the plastic gym.
I discovered that the angle in the gym is pretty relentless, so the pump comes quickly!! But other than that it's fairly soft compared to the outdoor world. Most of us already know this.
But, it's cool, cuz I got worked over pretty hard and I met Lt. Levi.

It took little time for him to invite me to Yosemite in November, where I know forever that the sh#t is real. Luckily he didn't intend to kill me.
I gave him spicy jerky to keep him calm.
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Credit: survival
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Strange though, how the cracks have gotten steeper and harder than they were 30 years ago..........
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Credit: survival
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I met some really cool people, and a wonderful time!! We only did 5 pitches, but it was still great.

Ejesta, Stone Groove, and Reeds Direct, that's it. BITD that was a warm up. Not so easy anymore.

I know the cracks of Ejesta existed 40 years ago, I just didn't know it. I was too busy with famous cracks next door like Reeds Direct, Lunatic Fringe and Stone Groove. Thanks Lt. Levi for introducing me to a really cool route I never knew about.
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Credit: survival
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Not bad for November eh?
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Credit: survival
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Credit: survival
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Credit: survival
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Credit: survival
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  Trip Report Views: 2,363
survival
About the Author
survival is a big wall climber from A Token of My Extreme.

Comments
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Nov 30, 2015 - 12:37pm PT
Very nice.
Old timers can still sometimes rock.
Good job Lt. Levi
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Nov 30, 2015 - 12:41pm PT
Excellent! Thanks for both the memories and the inspiration, although you look way too young to have reached my stage of fossilization.

John
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2015 - 12:47pm PT



There's a pretty spectacular traverse at the top of the second pitch of Ejesta!






Winter! She comes!


































































survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2015 - 12:54pm PT
JEL, that's not me looking like a youngster, it's Lt. Levi!!

In about 79 I cranked off Stone Groove, onsight, no problem.

Not so good this time, even seconding!!

































































FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Nov 30, 2015 - 12:58pm PT
TFPU
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Nov 30, 2015 - 01:10pm PT
Good for you ground pounders! I did the direct on UPS today (wink).

Stone Groove - totally sandbagged 10a unless you wear a smearing shoe
on the left foot and an edgeing shoe on the right.
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Nov 30, 2015 - 05:08pm PT
Survival: Good work getting up Reed's Direct. When I climbed it back in 1978, it was only 5.9 (for the first two leads) & I was climbing a lot, but I recall being very tired by the top of the 2nd lead & the 3rd lead wasn't in the cards.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2015 - 01:14pm PT
Fun in the sun on Reeds Direct.

One of the most famous cracks in the world?












Go Lt. Dan, GO!!!








Neighbors!!

















I LOVE this one!! SUATPPJ!!


















My Christmas present to Jefe. I brought the last photo early this year.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2015 - 02:30pm PT
Tad!! First game for Placer JV boys is 5PM on Thurs, vs Central Valley, at Foothill.
Apparently the phone number I have for you is no good anymore?
EU

Trad climber
Sacramento
  Nov 30, 2015 - 02:59pm PT
Hi Survival! Thanks for the trip report, what a fun time we had. Reed's Direct 2nd pitch was the single hardest pitch I've ever done, bar none. Freaking hilarious. Stoked to go out again!
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Nov 30, 2015 - 03:19pm PT
Great pics! What a winter crag!
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Nov 30, 2015 - 03:29pm PT
Great pics. Way to put the F in fun. Thanks for the share Survival!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Nov 30, 2015 - 03:39pm PT
Nice Survival.....Reeds area is great. Also the home of a great OW....Stepping Out and the ultra classic Five & Dime which is one of the best pitches in Yosemite along with Lunatic Fringe.
Looks like you're getting smart and hitching your wagon to a young stallion. Wait till Spring and then draft his wake up the Steck Salathe!!!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Nov 30, 2015 - 03:43pm PT
Go get it... Stone Grove 10a hahahahahaha

Thanks for belaying that Lt.

Whats the modern, you know MP grade for P2 Reeds?

P3?.... that doesn't exist!!!
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  Nov 30, 2015 - 03:45pm PT
nice pictures. thanks for sharing.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2015 - 04:39pm PT
Stone Groove is not 10a!! I recall it being 10b even BITD....
Seemed harder than that now. Heh.



Reeds 2nd pitch is 5.9d+


I hereby award myself the distinguished Elderly Loser Climber Medal!!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Nov 30, 2015 - 05:49pm PT
Right on Bruce.
There's something about a Yosemite classic- so fun. I got some recently too.

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Nov 30, 2015 - 05:53pm PT
Stoner Groove, when you get to the bulge where the crack thins there is a foothold down and right....guys never see it.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2015 - 10:06pm PT
Lt. Levi is pleased I flew his flag a little bit.

Thanks for the kind comments everyone. I'm happy to post up something besides evil and guns and politics.

Speaking of Guns, Amber played her first "official" game as a senior and a varsity starter tonight. Roseville made a good run in the 4th quarter, and cut Placer's lead down to 4 points, but Amber hit a couple big 3's and put an end to that nonsense. BANG!! BANG!!

71-59, Placer!!

[Click to View YouTube Video]
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Dec 2, 2015 - 03:31pm PT
GO<<GO<< Amber,,nice shots as always wimpy ,[I can call you that now after talking to bugs and getting the math,,,your ten years my youth, tried to sign up for S,S, today,,they said go ask yo mama,, Keep it coming,,bro,
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Dec 2, 2015 - 03:33pm PT
Excellent as always Bruce. Great pictures.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Dec 2, 2015 - 03:38pm PT
Rowdical!!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Dec 2, 2015 - 05:10pm PT
Bruce, awesomeness is up on you!!!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Dec 2, 2015 - 09:20pm PT
Thanks everyone.

Melski!! I'm so glad that you seem to always spot these TRs. I miss you man. Wish we could get together for a route, or some jams!!

Tad, I'm looking forward to seeing you tomorrow!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Dec 2, 2015 - 10:44pm PT
Yeah, Ejesta is super fun! Glad to see you having fun out there. It will be more fun once the fixed lines are up and you don't have to lead any of it! There is usually a swing set up on top of the Reeds pinnacle so that you can take photos of all your friends top roping! Come in a few weeks!

Woot!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2015 - 08:26am PT
I'll be there!

Swing set, wheeeeee!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Dec 3, 2015 - 09:29am PT
Seriously, if you will have time to go to the valley for some low key cragging, let me know! Would be happy to do stuff together or in a larger group. That way you can make sure I am as annoying as I appear on the internet. :)
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2015 - 10:16am PT
Thanks V!!

I definitely hope to climb with you sometime.

You can even throw Burchey in so we can do something besides remote control fencing on the innerweb.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Dec 3, 2015 - 11:27am PT
Sweet. Love Reeds and haven't been back in four years or so.

Two new'ish Gable routes that should be on radar for people who love Reeds: the 7 or 8-pitch extension above Lunatic Fringe, and Angry Natives. Both awesome, both doable in winter!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2015 - 11:12pm PT
How hard are they?
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Dec 5, 2015 - 03:58pm PT
Dam You make me wont to SUFFER,,Out to the backer ladder,,,1 2 sh#t,,OK<<OK<< lets stay in the grouve,,the grinch says just say when tocome to the farm for some gammin,,[ on your way to C,O.R.
]moms drive by]]love ya bro,,melski,,
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Dec 5, 2015 - 04:23pm PT
Missed this until now.

Big fun, for sure. (And it's nice to see another Elderly Loser Climber medal awarded. I was getting lonely.)
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Dec 5, 2015 - 09:41pm PT
Yes!!!

Thanks Tad. And thanks for coming to those games. I'm so glad you got to see a couple good ones!!

The guys are so stoked to be walking around showing off their champion shirts!
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
  Dec 6, 2015 - 06:12am PT
Right on, survival!
Go