Direct Northwest Face 5.10c

 
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Lembert Dome


Tuolumne Meadows, California USA


Trip Report
A Quintessential Trip to Tuolumne Meadows - River Hangin', MoMart Devouring, and oh yeah...Rock Climbing!

by WML
Monday July 8, 2013 4:04pm
May as well keep with my recent trend of soundtracks for TR's ...




To put it quite simply, Tuolumne Meadows is my favorite place in the universe. The rounded granite domes, lush forests, pristine bodies of water, ideal weather and most importantly the laid back vibe make this place paradise. Add to this the nature of the climbing - simply put, the Meadows are a proving ground.

Temperatures in Las Vegas proper were exceeding 115 degrees, which meant temperatures at Red Rock and my house were reaching 105-107. A dry heat is a dry heat, but enough is enough. When I was out TR soloing The Fox after work the day before I left, and the sweat I had worked up on the approach was persistent through my whole workout, even during rests, I knew it was time to head for the high country during this heat wave.

Jeff and I had this Tuolumne trip planned for a month or so, and the timing simply couldn't have been more impeccable. Jon was a late addition to the trip due to an undefined work schedule.


The below photo was taken in Jon's car at the edge of Las Vegas headed North on the 95. Disgusting heat.

The temperature outside is TOO DAMN HIGH!
The temperature outside is TOO DAMN HIGH!
Credit: WML


Fast forward through a fast drive and 5 hours later we are meeting Jeff at the MoMart and racing up the hill to get some bouldering in before the sun goes down.

Jeff working on the double dyno
Jeff working on the double dyno
Credit: WML

WML on the opening moves of "The Scoop"
WML on the opening moves of "The Scoop"
Credit: WML

WML Making moves
WML Making moves
Credit: WML

Our bouldering session wasn't cut short by the sun going down, but rather by (literally) clouds of mosquitoes descending upon us. After a quick bird bath in Tenaya Lake, down the hill we went. We had never been to the Mono Market before and WOW that place is great. Cheap, homemade, awesome pre-made eats to be had at hours after the Mobil has since ceased operation. Had an awesome apple strudel and a baby-sized wrap. That and a bag of chips (still uneaten) and I was out the door for less than $10. Pretty rad!

Our plan for the next day entailed getting on whatever wasn't crowded, was classic, and had good belay ledges (party of 3 -- learned my lesson at Red Rock on that one). Top of the list was the supposedly classic cruise on the Regular Route of Fairview Dome. A few things conspired against us on this one in the morning (forecast, previous rain, and crowds) so we quickly decided that the Direct NW Face of Lembert Dome would be a suitable replacement, with much more real climbing on it than RR Fairview has (at least according to the topo).

Track 2:



After a relatively brief and quite hilarious wait, including a party scoping getting on an adjacent route commenting on the party already occupying that route by stating that "They aren't very good at rock climbing" and leaving, we launched off upon our turn. We did the route in 3 pitches, one long one to the main ledge and two short ones after that.

Jon trying to touch Cathedral Peak
Jon trying to touch Cathedral Peak
Credit: WML

Life in the city, is such a far cry from reality, a beautiful day
Life in the city, is such a far cry from reality, a beautiful day
Credit: WML

Jeff following P1
Jeff following P1
Credit: WML

Call me, any time, I'm not the guy that likes to judge and whine
Call me, any time, I'm not the guy that likes to judge and whine
Credit: WML

Jon following the P2 5.10 corner, stellar!  Jeff below on the ledge wa...
Jon following the P2 5.10 corner, stellar! Jeff below on the ledge waiting his turn.
Credit: WML

Jon working through the last of the 5.10 moves on the route
Jon working through the last of the 5.10 moves on the route
Credit: WML

Can't be letting things get me down
Can't be letting things get me down
Credit: WML

Credit: WML

Jeff enjoying the last 5.10 moves as well
Jeff enjoying the last 5.10 moves as well
Credit: WML

Idyllic views
Idyllic views
Credit: WML

A party on Cryin' Time Again
A party on Cryin' Time Again
Credit: WML

Top-out shot
Top-out shot
Credit: WML

Ereting irie
Ereting irie
Credit: WML

Hwy 120 Livin
Hwy 120 Livin
Credit: WML

The route was stellar. A few short 5.10 cruxes that were well protected, and that 5.9 slab move with less than confidence inspiring protection and a ledge to hit certainly kept my attention on lead - took me a while to go for that and thankfully I didn't blow it. It was easy cruisin' after that, I did place a red/yellow offset TCU in the pin scar that was decent in one direction but had the rope whipped at all in a fall and rotated it even in the slightest, grim consequences would have been had - so be careful.

Once we topped out and did the walk off in the blazing sun, we went to the river to sip cold beverages and swim. This, to me, is an essential part of the Tuolumne experience...the hang. Because in the end, the hang is what matters the most and makes the trip.




After a few hours of enjoying the hang, I had sold Jeff into climbing the Golfer's Route with Jon. I had climbed it twice before and given the time remaining in the day, getting three of us up and down the thing probably wasn't happenning, so I shot photos instead.

Track 3:



Neva get burn
Neva get burn
Credit: WML

No fire, could burn a righteous Nyah! <br/>
No fire, could burn a righteous Nyah!

Credit: WML

Golfing
Golfing
Credit: WML

Jeff running it out a bit
Jeff running it out a bit
Credit: WML

Jon following the route
Jon following the route
Credit: WML

Some infamous climbs on that tharr thang, mm hmm
Some infamous climbs on that tharr thang, mm hmm
Credit: WML

The Yawn is such an aesthetic line
The Yawn is such an aesthetic line
Credit: WML

Jeff and Jon both enjoyed the climb, Jeff lead it and was amused by the runouts. The mosquitoes started to ignore our bug spray so we went back out to the road, where we caught a sunset that is solidly among my Top 3 of all-time:

WML getting the next shot...
WML getting the next shot...
Credit: WML

120 sunset...
120 sunset...
Credit: WML

I have no words.
I have no words.
Credit: WML

Track 4:



After catching a few shots at the parking area for Low Profile Dome, we were determined to get to the Mo Mart for dinner, until we saw the Meadows...with this sunset:

If I could spend the rest of my life with my people, I would do it ove...
If I could spend the rest of my life with my people, I would do it over and over again
Credit: WML

And I remember everyday, sometimes it's too much to take
And I remember everyday, sometimes it's too much to take
Credit: WML

All I really need, is all I have ever seen
All I really need, is all I have ever seen
Credit: WML

After we caught the sunset we missed the MoMart closing by a few minutes, but it was so worth it. We went to the BBQ place in town after that...Bodie Mike's? Slow and poor service but delicious food.

We slept in the desert again, ate breakfast at the Mo again, and back up the hill we went - this time to get on Bombs Over Tokyo.



...and then we got there and it was mobbed with humans. Off to climb West of the Witch, a "5.8 R-" per the Supertopo. It was pretty safely bolted and pretty fun.

WML leading West of the Witch
WML leading West of the Witch
Credit: WML


WML making moves
WML making moves
Credit: WML

After we all ran a lap on this we were a bit short on time, so we hung out by Cathedral Creek for a bit on those awesome granite slabs across from DAFF and bird bathed there. Following that, it was to the MoMart for my beloved BBQ chicken sandwich there and then back to Las Vegas for Jon and I, and back to Reno for Jeff.

Every time I go to Tuolumne I leave there with an all-week grin and truly feel refreshed. The place truly is heaven on earth - something about the perfect weather, mind blowing views, laid back vibe, stunning bodies of water, and the rock climbing that is pretty damn good, too. Just writing this trip report makes me want to load the truck up and point it toward the meadows, and I hope it conveys a similar feeling to others. Thank you for reading.

  Trip Report Views: 2,926
WML
About the Author
WML is a purveyor of premium malt liquor beverages, margaritas and diet mountain dew (although not together, nor necessarily in that order) who lives to redline the fun meter

Comments
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Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Jul 8, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
It's not politics but I think I like it!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jul 8, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
Tuolumne....is callin' me....

Thanks for stoking the fire! Great report from the happiest place on Earth. Sorry Disneyland.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
  Jul 10, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
[edited my sarcasm]to simply say : awesome TR. you really did take the soundtrack idea to another level here, i did enjoy this very much, like a nice cherry on top of a good TR.
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jul 8, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
Thanks guys!

@Jebus - Sorry to interrupt the name-calling and political bullshit babble with climbing, right?

RE: the soundtrack and timing - I never really intended for the timing on any of the previous TR's to work out, the Epinephrine one oddly enough did. I wish I could say I was clever or something and had plotted that up but uhhh....nnnnnnnope!
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jul 9, 2013 - 10:42am PT
Bump because I put a lot of effort into this thing...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Jul 9, 2013 - 10:45am PT
Nice Job WML.. But dayum you look like a nephew of mine...
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
  Jul 9, 2013 - 11:04am PT
I wish all TR's had soundtracks.

And, the timing was perfect, like to the second, on the first two songs for me. I found it uncanny.

Thanks for sharing, and obviously spending a good bit of time creating the TR.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Jul 9, 2013 - 11:28am PT
Very nice Weston. Although my time in the high country was unfortunatly brief, i was awestruck by the beauty of it all, and i cannot wait to return and sample some of the goods this fall. Thanks for the inspiring report!
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
  Jul 9, 2013 - 11:30am PT
Cool Tr and some very nice cloud shots!

TFPU
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jul 9, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
Thanks for a very fine TR.

John
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 9, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
Very nice Tr,
Awesome sunset pics!!!!
Macronut

Trad climber
Fresno, Ca
  Jul 9, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
Beautiful job on the TR. Thanks for making me jealous and discontent right now. For sure the best place on the planet to climb!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jul 9, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
Preposterous, of the best kind!
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jul 10, 2013 - 08:49am PT
Thanks for reading everyone!!! Looks like I'll be heading back up that way next weekend if things work out as they look they may, woo hoo!
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Jul 10, 2013 - 09:37am PT
Sweet!
TFPU
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
  Jul 10, 2013 - 09:58am PT
Nice. Required elements present. Pictures, people, route notes and food notes. Bonus for the soundtrack. Always enjoy TRs of routes I have done or could do. Wish I was along for the ride.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
  Jul 10, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
Beautiful trip!.. Heading up there tomorrow for a few days.. thanks for the extra psyche!
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jul 11, 2013 - 11:16am PT
Thanks, guys! climb2ski - enjoy your trip! I wish Vegas was as close to the Meadows as it was when I lived in Reno - the extra 2.5 hours of driving sucks!

Seamstress - glad you enjoy that style of TR. I try not to give move by move nonsense on my TR's or hyper-annotated photos of the routes. I prefer to try to convey the vibe of the trip and the fun had - the most important aspect, right there!


Again, thank you everyone who has read this thing - as stated up-thread I put some work into this deal and am glad people are enjoying.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Jul 11, 2013 - 01:58pm PT
Camelot - 'tis a magical place....
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Jul 11, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
Ahh tuolumne.....



Nice TR, thanks for sparing us the ganster rap on this one :-)
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jan 15, 2014 - 12:51pm PT
BBST!


and for the absence of Gangster Rap in this one
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jan 17, 2014 - 02:50am PT
Bring back the gangsta rap!!!!!
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jan 20, 2014 - 08:40pm PT
Mo gangsta rap mo betta! Next TR I will be sure to throw some more on for ya
portent

Social climber
your mom's house
  Apr 17, 2014 - 04:01pm PT
BUMP
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Lembert Dome - Direct Northwest Face 5.10c - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
THe splitter crack system up Lembert Dome creates the Direct Northwest Face.
Photo: Chris McNamara
Other Routes on Lembert Dome
Lembert Dome - Northwest Books 5.6 - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Northwest Books, 5.6
Lembert Dome
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A fine route to introduce yourself to Tuolumne climbing.
Lembert Dome - Beginners Route 5.4 R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Beginners Route, 5.4 R
Lembert Dome
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THe splitter crack system up Lembert Dome creates the Direct Northwest Face.
Lembert Dome - Cryin' Time Again 5.10a R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Cryin' Time Again, 5.10a R
Lembert Dome
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Cryin' Time Again is route A.
Lembert Dome, Right - Left Water Crack 5.7 R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Left Water Crack, 5.7 R
Lembert Dome, Right
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Left Water Crack is route C
Lembert Dome - Cry Baby 5.8 R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Cry Baby, 5.8 R
Lembert Dome
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Cryin' Time Again is route A.
More routes on Lembert Dome