The family holidays this year, with my wife Bronwen, and 17 year old son Tim were scheduled for the Dolomites, but 'events and the weather seriously got in the way. We were robbed of an early start down to Dover and the ferry crossing by a mysterious absence of French border officials on the UK side of the Channel, and, when we eventually reached the Dolomites two days later we got stuck in a weather pattern of nasty afternoon storms.



We were staying in a hotel between Selva Val Gardena and the Sella Joch, but were forced to mess around for half days on the small sport climbs in the City of Rocks below the Sassolungo, before beating a retreat back to the Hotel. While this was OK it was very frustrating not being able to take advantage of the mountains. Several days of this routine, with no improvement in sight forced a change of plan, and we decided to head to the Verdon. A quick email confirmed accommodation at Le Perroquet Verte in La Palud and so we headed South out of the mountains and into the heat of the South....

It's a days drive from the Dolomites to the Verdon, which we broke at Finale Ligure on the Italian Riviera, There's climbing there (and it's very good by repute) but we didn't stop to look, and the next day drove to La Palud.

We got settled in and decided that the next day Tim and I would do La Demande, probably the longest climb on the Falais de L'Escales. If you look back at my TRs you will see I've done the route quite a few times, Firstly back in 1976, with five more ascents over the years.



So while I was very familiar with the route, it would be way more committing than anything Tim had ever taken on. He's a powerful boulderer more used to local blocs, highballs and plastic than what this had in store for him. It would be a significant challenge.


We sorted out the gear, comprising a very small rack, a very long, very thin rope, head torches for the tunnel, water and a couple of lightweight rainjackets. (I just beat a storm last time.) Bronwem would walk in with us watch the bottom pitches and return to the car with our shoes, to meet us at the top. Definitely the way to go!

We arrived at the Coulior Samson parking to find two cars parked. One was accounted for by a party established on the early pitches of a route on the Duc, the sombre shady guardian to the gorge. We trotted through the tunnels and after 20 minutes headed off uphill from the path to the base of the route. We got ourselves sorted, I scrambled up to the start of the first pitch and Tim headed manfully off.


The first pitch is pretty awkward with some slippery crack climbing that could easily spit you off. But Tim dealt with it pretty smoothly. All of the pitches have some bolts, and all are about 30m, this first has a couple of bolts at key spots. Despite not being practiced at placing gear Tim placed some solid nuts and cams to reduce the fall potential, and suprised himself at how far he would climb above it.


The pitch ends on a good ledge, Tim sorted himself out and brought me up. Knowing what was above (a poor hanging stance) I linked the next two pitches, missing out a rather poor hanging belay, and took a stance under a shady tree, pretty important as it was getting hot - and would get hotter!

Tim came up and led through, following the diagonal crack ramp and wall through a shallow groove to another shaded stance.


By this time you are well established on the wall and begin to get a sense of the great exposure the Verdon is famed for; the emerald river ribbons along below, and Vultures start to play on the updraft as the air warms up.

The next pitch takes you into the base of the chimney system from which the climb gets it's notoriety, in reality it is nowhere near as hard as Steck Salathe on the Sentinel - with which it is sometimes compared. But the chimneys are a bit brutal in places, and the climbing 'unusual' to those not schooled in thrutching.

Tim gave this pitch his best shot, but balked at the transition from crack to flared groove. I lowered him down and took over. He was pretty knacked now, and I was in truth a little concerned about his ability to recover. I took over, thrashed my way up the groove and brought him up. We were now (If I did some more linking) 'only' three pitches from the top, (30m, 60m, and 70m) and thankfully in the shade. We rehydrated, got ourselves sorted and I headed off. The next pitch traverse across the chimney to climb a groove and roof, before cutting back left. Tim followed in better spirits and arrived at a better stance. I next linked two pitches, there's a troublesome narrowing which is quite polished, strenuous and quite exciting.


This leads to a good stance at the bottom of the final challenge, the flared groove.


The groove succumbs to some spooky back and foot manouvres that see you latch a tree some 45' above. While three bolts protect it a fall would be a very unpleasant clatter down the groove. So th etree is reached with a great sense of relief.



I continued past the belay and linked the next two pitches, belaying just below the rim. Bronwen was above having eventually tracked down the top and Identifying us from the clinking of gear and the English voices.

Tim popped out of the Oaks first, pleased to see Mum with shoes!


We lazed awhile in the sun (very hot!) and had the obligatorily photos by the cairns, before heading to the car, the village and ice creams!



Overall we took about 5 1/2 hours, Tim finished in pretty good shape, and while relieved it was over probably had a few more pitches in him. He learned a ton of stuff, both about climbing, and probably himself, all manly character building stuff!


In the event I do do it again (and I'd never say never...) I promise not to write about it!

Regards all!

Steve