Trip Report
A Deto first time
Wednesday August 2, 2006 4:22pm
My sixteen yr old daughter Natalie has been climbing longer than she can remember.
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inside and out, but neveer anything 'big.' So, when a hurried weekend trip to NE Wyo for her cousin's wedding came I said,
"Wanna Climb Devil's Tower?"
"Sure."
The Die was cast. Nat, myself and her Uncles, Chasbro & Barrybro would ascend on the last day of July.
a suitable first route, Bon Homme, 5.8+ 2 pitches was selected.
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Charge
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after the one hour drive which was Nat's intro to Firesign theatre, that the 'bro's knew by heart, she knew we were crazy!

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Massive Exposure, sandbagged ratings, unfamiliar wyde crack technique and an exposed traverse and she still kept her enthusiasm and sense of humor.
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Less sure how much fun Chasbro was having at the same point

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though 'he got better,'
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On, to pitch two
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I topped out on that one and brought Nat up to the ledge,

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and up into 'The Meadows'

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While Barrybro Followed pitch one.

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Meanwhile, the mighty Belle Fourche looked on,

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after a short scramble, we were on to the summit prairie,

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Time to head down for Ice Cream,

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Of Course, No whirlwind trip to 'big wonderful' is complete without a stop at Vedauwoo on the way to DIA!

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Natalie A, 16 - first time up the tower
Jay A, 50 - first time up the tower as a fifty year old (92nd overall ascent)
Chas A, 56 - First time up after marrying off both kids + becoming a grandad (100+ ascents)
Barry, 45- First time up of the new Millenium

Also the 31st Anniversary (more or less, I forget the exact date, though the month and year are 'On") of Chas & Jay's first time up (along with Tibor Polgar, Larry Losch and Mark Stumpf)

  Trip Report Views: 2,970
Jaybro
About the Author
Jaybro is a social climber from Wolf City, Wyoming.

Comments
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
  Aug 2, 2006 - 04:35pm PT
Nice going, bro's!
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Aug 2, 2006 - 04:44pm PT
Next time bring "Russ-Bro"
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Aug 2, 2006 - 04:45pm PT
Nice J-Brah!
elcapfool

Big Wall climber
  Aug 2, 2006 - 04:50pm PT
Good on ya' for the cool parenting, but harnessing up at the car?
You should be teaching better style...




Just kidding man! I wish my dad was as cool as you.
golsen

Social climber
kennewick, wa
  Aug 2, 2006 - 05:04pm PT
NICE!!! Looks like you even got a little big size crack in on the second pitch.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
  Aug 2, 2006 - 05:08pm PT
very cool, looks like a good time. Thanks for posting up.

Tom
davidji

Social climber
CA
  Aug 2, 2006 - 05:18pm PT
Harnessing up at the car & mountaineer's coil thrown over the shoulder is the ultimate in style. Props to your daughter for her "Hook 'em Horns" hand gesture in the car photo.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Aug 2, 2006 - 05:25pm PT
Awesome. Your daughter and you have the same smiles - that's so cool to see. Can't wait to see your next TR
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Aug 2, 2006 - 07:32pm PT
Is that BarryBro in the Whillans ballbuster harness?
Good thing he's got the t-shirt that says: "Calm"!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Aug 2, 2006 - 10:19pm PT
nice one Jay... looks like fun -

where's the elevator boy?
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
  Aug 2, 2006 - 10:27pm PT
Outstanding pictures!!
NeverSurfaced

Trad climber
Puerto Natales
  Aug 2, 2006 - 11:23pm PT
Thanks for the inspiration! I’ve got dozens of shots of my oldest daughter (now 5 ½) on our backyard wall. Your pics are super cool. Thanks!!!

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Aug 3, 2006 - 09:41am PT
Since Barry and I flew in, Chas (he's a local)provided most of the equipment. Barrybro got the classic Whillians, Natalie got the original Series MM Cadillac Swami with hugger loops, Chas favored a J-rat rig.

The elevator boy is knott part of our family!
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California, now Ireland
  Aug 3, 2006 - 10:17am PT
Cool Jaybro, looks a darn site better than climbing on Diablo, eh?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Aug 3, 2006 - 11:31am PT
Hey Jay,
Does Natalie know you've posted her diaper shot for all to see?
Given that it was a Christmas card, she must be used to it by now.
Too funny.

'Nice All in the Family style TR.
TradIsGood

Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
  Aug 3, 2006 - 11:36am PT
Ha! I noticed that too!

But she might object even more to the top of her head being cut off in favor of some really ugly toes.

Cropping needed. ;-)

Rest of the pictures are great!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Aug 3, 2006 - 09:14pm PT
Nat knows all, she okayed the whole post before I sent it, and she's grown up looking at the diaper shot.

Didn't realize we were Jaybro-fungus-feet-heavy, at the cost of Nat's head - it was the fault of my multi-tasking, belay and photo, not editing.

She is, at this moment, dancing around, and 'talking' with her online buds on another computer, and still loves me!


I'm saving the buns-up baby bubble bath shots for her more scary dates, or other approppriate moments of parental blackmail.

-she gets to proof read this one, too!




-we're cool.
426

climber
  Aug 3, 2006 - 09:26pm PT
Nice stuff Jaybro!
susan peplow

climber
Joshua Tree, CA
  Aug 3, 2006 - 09:33pm PT
Your pictures warm my heart and likely will be a trip that you all will remember forever.

What's planned next?

-Susan
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Aug 3, 2006 - 09:39pm PT
I think the diaper photo is the cutest (exclamation points). Not to say the others aren't terrific, but that one just makes me smile.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Aug 3, 2006 - 09:56pm PT
kids in diapers at the crags/gym,
man that just says something about the future and it looks good.

now that's something you didn't see 20-30 years ago (16 maybe).

hey Jay,
remember that little kid, Evan, from red mountain rock gym?
'first time i saw him he was standing in his diaper on top of of a fairly large boulder during a comp, totally rippin' the plastic and at times getting a good several body lengths off the pads.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Aug 4, 2006 - 12:39am PT
Tar
I thought Evan's coolest trick was when he would climb on top of the kids wall (6-7' off the, padded, ground)grab both ends of one of the steep topropes and swing halfway(seemed like) across the gym on pure grip strength! at age 2!! all 'cause he wanted to!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Aug 4, 2006 - 12:47am PT
fuchin' little dood warmed the cockles of my heart.
i tried hard to get evolve to let me sponsor him.
we at least got him some shoes.
man he was so stoked.
(the shoes were huge on 'im, even the smallest size)

he would routinely call me over to either spot him,
or show off his other favorite trick:
essentially climbing up and taking a little intentional whipper onto his back and roll out of it, giggling.

i was bummed when i learned the gym failed.
evan's mom and dad owned it: mike and janet.
i have not seen them.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Aug 4, 2006 - 01:02am PT
I've had email from them, positive about life, but nebulous about what they are doing.

Very good people, I was ultrabummed when the gym went belly-up.
On my stolen computer, I had action shots that Natalie took of Evan. I'll dig them up as I can.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Aug 4, 2006 - 01:09am PT
Mike prolly still teaches skiing during the winters.
Man, sumthin' compelling about Evan.
(whut isn't compelling about the promise of children).

Ya, post those snappy shots up when you find 'em.
Even cooler that Natalie took them.

cheers,
Roy.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Jan 29, 2007 - 01:47pm PT
shameless self agrandizing bump
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Jan 29, 2007 - 02:01pm PT
Jaybro:

I consulted with the etiquette book before bumping my own trip report and learned that it is perfectly acceptable to do so. It was fun reading this time too! Thanks for bumping it.

C
Carolyn C

Trad climber
the long, long trailer
  Jan 29, 2007 - 02:09pm PT
Glad you bumped it because I hadn't seen it, and it's great. Mark Stumpf? - would he be the artist (at least he was an artist in the 70s) from Berkeley?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Jan 29, 2007 - 02:35pm PT
Carolyn C -yes the same, though I've lost touch with him.
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
  Jan 29, 2007 - 02:47pm PT
Very nice TR. Looks like everyone had a great time.

You've also done your bit for tourism - I have GOT to get to Devils Tower now!
Carolyn C

Trad climber
the long, long trailer
  Jan 30, 2007 - 11:05am PT
Jaybro - It was nice to see Mark's name. I knew him from the Indian Rock scene in Berkeley in the late 70s; he was a really nice guy, had his own painting business. Thanks for the great TR and photos.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Jan 30, 2007 - 11:14am PT
Good catch, Carolyn. I'd missed Mark's name the first time this thread went around.
I saw Mark a couple years ago. He switched from painting contractor to general contractor (Big Dog Construction).
His voice is still somewhat penetrating. Still got that big
Santa-like laugh.
Hootervillian

climber
the Hooterville World-Guardian
  Jan 30, 2007 - 11:19am PT
nice.


ever think about adopting? i have references!
Carolyn C

Trad climber
the long, long trailer
  Jan 30, 2007 - 11:30am PT
Steve - Big Dog Construction...perfect name for a Mark Stumpf business.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Jan 30, 2007 - 11:33am PT
Dang! 92 times up Devil's Tower? I haven't been even once. Nice pics!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Jan 30, 2007 - 03:01pm PT
Scuff, Carolyn if either of you have contact info for mark please forward (I guess I could look up Big Dog, d'oh)
I went to High School with him. Tim Waschik, too.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Jan 30, 2007 - 03:13pm PT
I'm confused, Jaybro.
I thought you had grown up in the heartland.
Makes me wonder how many times you, Patrick and I were all
at Indian Rock at the same time without ever knowing.
Yeah, do a search for Mark.
big dog construction Oakland took me to a nice photo of him
howling with his wolfhounds.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Jan 30, 2007 - 06:44pm PT
Family moved from Chicago (Park Forest) to Moraga in '71, when I was 15.

It's almost impossible that we didn't all run into each other around then, weird, but cool!

Googling Big Dog const.
-found the address & phone #, but no picture!?

-got it! Three irish wolfhounds, man o man, that's a lot of purina!
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Jan 30, 2007 - 07:08pm PT
About 3 hits down was a SF Gate multimedia thing, Dog Ditties.
Also an article about a house he built above the Tunnel.

EDIT:
That's on Yahoo search. Google didn't get me those articles
within the first 2 pages.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
  Jan 30, 2007 - 11:10pm PT
". . . Antelope Freeway, one half mile . . . Antelope Freeway, one quarter mile . . . "
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Jan 30, 2007 - 11:13pm PT
"... Happy (something)commons, if you lived here you'd be home by now..."
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
  Jan 30, 2007 - 11:15pm PT
NICK DANGER, THIRD EYE!!!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Jan 31, 2007 - 01:00pm PT



WHAT IS REALITY?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Sep 30, 2008 - 05:49pm PT

Seems so long ago...

Gene

climber
  Sep 30, 2008 - 06:02pm PT
Ain't being a Daddy the greatest?

Best to you and yours,

GM
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Sep 30, 2008 - 06:50pm PT
oh, it is!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Sep 30, 2008 - 06:59pm PT
You'll always be the big daddy to us, J.
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Sep 30, 2008 - 07:00pm PT
Jaybro has the elevated status of FATHER--he who has raised a well-adjusted, contributing member of society.

...if I can do the same, then I will know that I have succeeded.
adam d

climber
CA
  Sep 30, 2008 - 07:02pm PT
Maybe I'm not in on the lingo, but I was glad to see a devil's tower TR rather than your daughter's first experience in DeTox. Bon Homme Variation was my first route on the tower too...sweet line!


Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Sep 30, 2008 - 07:35pm PT
High School Prom?
Nice.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Sep 30, 2008 - 11:53pm PT
Maid of Honor at friends wedding, coulda been, though.
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Oct 3, 2008 - 10:02pm PT
nice!

thanks for the bump, missed this one originally.

sitting in franks living room right now!

cheers,

patrick
the museum

Trad climber
  Oct 3, 2008 - 10:15pm PT
Son-in-law Deto first timer.. hey Pat, you're back again. We can't come over this weekend. Have a super fun time! Brad

Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
  Oct 3, 2008 - 10:17pm PT
Family and Friends....when you compress life to its finest ....that's it !

Great post Mr. JBro and Friends.

Peace and Joy on this Great Planet of F&F.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Oct 4, 2008 - 12:39am PT
Keep you back to the wall, Pat
;)
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Feb 25, 2009 - 07:09am PT
schoolgirl (all A's in college so far) style bump
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
  Jun 2, 2011 - 10:21pm PT
And Nat didn't stick her tongue out once, at least not in the photos. She must have been having a good time!
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
  Jun 2, 2011 - 11:17pm PT
Jaybro-
Ya gotta be a proud Dad! Great TR!

I'm just guessing, but you stated Bonhomme Route; then mentioned an expesed traverse. I'm assuming it was the variation with traverse across the face of the column? It's "on my list" for later this Summer (if Summer ever gets here!).
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 2, 2011 - 11:20pm PT
Awesome, thanks!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Jun 2, 2011 - 11:32pm PT
What great summit smiles!!!!
Thanks for sharing, Jaybro!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Jun 2, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
Don't tell her I posted this one from the evil parent way way (pre-deto) back machine...
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Oct 17, 2011 - 12:43am PT
Great trip report Jaybro.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Jun 26, 2014 - 05:53pm PT
And come Halloween, she's gonna be 25!? How is that possible?
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California, living in The Old Pueblo
  Jun 26, 2014 - 06:10pm PT
And come Halloween, she's gonna be 25!? How is that possible?

Blows the mind, doesn't it, Jaybro? Mine will be 22 in November.

I am glad you bumped this... Great TR that has me smiling from ear to ear.

Jingy

climber
Random Nobody
  Jun 27, 2014 - 04:33pm PT
thanks Jaybro.

yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
  Jun 27, 2014 - 04:51pm PT
Just rode the way-back-machine, but I'm glad I did. Thank gods for daughters
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Apr 12, 2015 - 03:49pm PT
Bump
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Apr 12, 2015 - 07:51pm PT
Makes me think how someday when my kids are done with college I'll be bumping trip reports from when they were my little mountain gangsters. I've still got another decade or so before that time, trying to make the most of it!

How the time does pass.

Go