Trip Report
▼▼▼▼January Bouldering in MT▼▼▼▼
Wednesday January 21, 2009 11:55am
Oh friggen face it. You CAN'T climb rock year round in SD, ND, MT... and it's damn ridiculous to say that you can. Seriously. You can not. - from RC.com


It was almost 50 when I met up with the crew...we decided to bask in the sun at a previous unexplored area. We were not disappointed...



Mojede on the FA...



After working another problem on the left aspect of the same boulder for a bit, Pat came back from a quick scope mission...and convinced us to go check out a couple of OWs he spied...


Mojede pantomimes the perceived beta...

As jamming it seems much harder...



Though the laying it back seemed to want to spit you...


Pat on the FA


Whitmore on the repeat

The other OW was not so easy...
...and also overhangs...


Climbing in the shade eventually got chilly, so we moved to warmer ground...
and some of us worked on some overhanging eyebrows...




All in all it was another great day in the backwaters...felt nice to be out climbing in a tshirt...

Hope y'all are getting some pulling in as well...

Cheers,

Tom





  Trip Report Views: 629
TKingsbury
About the Author
TKingsbury is a trad climber from MT.

Comments
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goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
  Jan 21, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
Yah Yah!
71 degrees out here today.
Let's go!
klk

Trad climber
cali
  Jan 21, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
jeebus, you got an entire expedition there!

my enthusiasm for painful wide cracks has waned considerably over the years.

but the 1st and last boulders look truly kuehl.
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Jan 21, 2009 - 12:39pm PT
Another one from Saturday.


Brady on the second success of "Keeping it all Together" (V1).
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jan 21, 2009 - 12:53pm PT
Sassy shiite yu gotz. nice
alpinerockfiend

Trad climber
the Magic City
  Jan 21, 2009 - 12:53pm PT
Nice work boys. Way to take advantage of the high pressure.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Jan 21, 2009 - 01:00pm PT
LIES!
Everybody knows THE only place to boulder this time of year is the Happies.
Geez, like we're supposed to believe you, or the sick photos.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Jan 21, 2009 - 01:00pm PT
Thanks, Tom.
Looks great.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Jan 21, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
We were in fact crewed up! 8 deep + dogs...after the first boulder everyone ran off into the hills and played...it was funny I'm not even sure what Andrew and Zana got on during the the midday...

Fun stuff for sure, and the weather has been cooperating after that cold snap. A month without being on the rock was almost too much. Mojede has already has gotten out 7 days in January...lucky dude to be so close...


Mojede gets his invert on...
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
  Jan 21, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
Wish I had untouched stone like that in my surrounding woodlands! Cool crisp days, new boulders, now that's what I call adult entertainment-
Jeremy

climber
  Jan 21, 2009 - 02:06pm PT
Dude!

I'm coming out there this Summer!!!!!!!!!

SWEET A!!!!!

Nice!

J
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Jan 21, 2009 - 02:15pm PT
Hell yeah Jeremy!

We'll definitely have to meet up!
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Jan 21, 2009 - 04:13pm PT
The high-pressure system stayed on for a few more days, so Dustin and Shannon came over from Livingston on Sunday to play on the dry pebbles.


Newbie Shannon testing the waters.



realmojede on the reach...

...and pull.



Dustin jammin'.



Molly trying to stay in-balance up high...

...only to lose it and take her first (padded) fall.


Luv dat January climbin'.

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jan 21, 2009 - 07:49pm PT
I dunno, but both of those Ow's seem to have right side in, armbar, potential, at least from 1200 miles away, viewing a photo over the 'net.

As for the season; I've climbed every month of the year in Vedauwoo, Josh, Deto, the supes, And the Valley, (oh yeah and Indian Creek). All it takes, is being close enough by, ready to go, and a certain drive to narrowly avoid temps of of 50 below, or 120 above. Only bouldered, in Montana, but it's hard to imagine that a lot of the same rules don't, apply. Surely looks like there is a huge amount of potential in Montucky!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Jan 21, 2009 - 08:11pm PT
I think we need you out here to see the key beta Jay...it'd be cool to jam the first one proper.

And it's true about the proximity...but there are alot of areas out there that'll hold snow even after a good spell of winter warmth...still the hardy will find places to climb.

Now the question remains, "when are you coming to Montucky?"



and Jeremy...you have set plans/dates for Montana? or more TBD?


the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City
  Jan 21, 2009 - 08:24pm PT
I would've climbed today but I messed up and went to work! Have a super fun time you guys! You always do!
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Jan 22, 2009 - 07:13am PT
Tom had a work day-off on MLK, so he an Pat came over for an exploration mission. A few things got climbed--one in particular was a 10' slab chimney that we coaxed the kids into going in and up.

The only climbing pic taken--courtesy of Lyddie (5)

mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Feb 1, 2009 - 07:35am PT
Yesterday was the last day of January, so this is my last addition to this thread--day number 8 for me out on the stone.

Who says that you can't climb year round in the Northern Lattitudes?


Pat, checking out the possibilities of using the "Snake Flake" on this pebble.



Sir Tom, doing that upside-down climbing thang.



We stumbled upon this on the way out to the car--too bad we didn't bring a rope...but next time.
Ezra

Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
  Feb 1, 2009 - 08:48am PT
Thanks boys, you gots some god rock in montucky!

-e
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2009 - 11:37am PT
Nice Hutch! That was fun yesterday...we'll have to return back there yet again. Pat has the pics, so I'll have to get him to post up...

You have any pics of that last roof crack find?
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Feb 1, 2009 - 11:40am PT
Pat has them all. I shot a nice angle on one, but it was with his camera.

Get that brother of yours on it!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
The brother emailed me some shots...




yet to be done...




new invert problem...about 18' long...really fun






Pat did a couple on this one...






and then at the end of the day we found this roof crack problem...about 25' long...hands to ow








we will return to this soon...until then...


Cheers!

Tom

Captain...or Skully

climber
  Feb 1, 2009 - 01:23pm PT
Man, I like the look of those Montucky boulders.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Feb 1, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
Inspirational!

That original RC whiner left out Wyoming, I've climbed at both Vedauwoo and the Tower, in every month.

Although, in those states you have to sieze the opportunities as they come. One year I soloed weisner in mid January and found I had done the first Deto ascent of the year, if you can trust the register. It was 50 out. The next day was 60 colder!


I always love you guys' photos. The terrain, the enthusiasm, the glimpse into your world are all things I dig highly. But for now, my favorite Montuckey shot is that one of Lyddie!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
Thanks guys.

Lots of fun and opportunity for playing in the sun lately...it's great to have winter climbing so close...

when are y'all showing up?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Feb 1, 2009 - 01:36pm PT
hmmm, I hope gas is still $2/gallon come june 12th!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2009 - 01:39pm PT
agreed...then we don't need to salvage the copper wire stash! or at least we can spend it on beer instead of gas...
perswig

climber
  Feb 1, 2009 - 01:54pm PT
Missed this first time around. Great pics! - made me want to put on a beanie, and I'm not even a boulderer.
That tall split thing - sure, that's worth a return trip.
Thanks for sharing your days.
Dale
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2009 - 02:06pm PT
Thanks Dale!

We'll be going back for that crack too - for sure!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Feb 1, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
That's, 'fer sher', dude.
montanaclimber

Trad climber
Marysville, MT
  Feb 1, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
Gotta give a bump to the Montana bros!
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Feb 1, 2009 - 05:27pm PT

Hutch in action
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Feb 1, 2009 - 06:12pm PT
You guys get out today?
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Feb 1, 2009 - 06:52pm PT
Took a restie and am watching a decent Super Bowl.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2009 - 07:44pm PT
Not today, though Pat sounds like he wants to head back mid week...
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Feb 2, 2009 - 08:04am PT
Monday bump...forecast is for a week of mid 40s out there...I think I might be catching a cold...sounds like I'll need a midweek bouldering cure...






From the geotagging camera phone(bb storm)...pretty damn handy technology
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Nov 28, 2011 - 02:23pm PT
You can get some good midwinter climbing in the hills depending on the year and how deep the snow is if there is any. Newcastle has White Rocks which is desert, Mt. Rushmore has bouldering at Baldy and they rarely get snow, and in Spearfish Canyon there is the Sunshine Wall, but I wouldn't book a ticket between November and April. Still lots of good days though.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Nov 28, 2011 - 02:44pm PT
Ha! Fun to see this bumped up. Early days in the benchlands...

Cheers!
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Nov 28, 2011 - 04:16pm PT
Nice TFPU
Even though everyone knows you can't climb in Montana in winter.
Fotoshopping in the snow was a nice touch.
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