Trip Report
7 day diary, time waits for no one- ANOTHER SIERRA/VALLEY TR
Tuesday November 5, 2013 4:26pm

Here's some spray- headed your way. Probably too many words but that's your problem now, I tried to counterbalance with pics & a bit of video :-)

Sept 1, 2013

I panicked, it had started raining. I hadn't climbed for 2 weeks.

August had been a month of little climbing despite great weather in BC, i had a shoulder impingement which had kept it pretty mellow. Originally i had wanted to go away for 3 weeks or so to Moab or some limestone on a beach in the fall. The fact that i had no real plan set up to GTFO when the rain hit @ the end of September. No Partners, locations, etc. was causing the alarm bells. I had some time off, but had no idea when to take it or what to do with it.

I'm sure that all of these first world problems could have been remedied with first world solutions, but like i said. I was panicking.

The panic i was enduring was unusual & seemingly caused by an incredibly strong desire to go up in the mountains. I had not done a single thing higher than the Chief all summer & was just longing to get up above the trees & catch some views.

Up where you can frolic.

I couldn't believe how much i wanted to be there, even just for a day, with no other agendas to contend with.

So anyways, in my state of panic on this day of the lord September 1 i realize it's not too late. I know where there are some mountains that are easy to get to in September!!

I check the flights & find some pretty cheap options. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

Maybe i don't really even want to make a plan with any partners? Just go explore & figure it out on the way. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm I'm not in the worst shape, but i'm definitely not in the best shape. Perhaps a little alone time will be just the thing, no need to commit to partners- but if i find some i'll be stoked. I am lucky enough to have some buddies down that way & knew that Brownie & Big Mike were gunna be in the Yosemite during that time too & it wasn't far away. Lots of options. Perfect.

Now to find out if it is possible.

A quick look towards the gatekeeper, who with nary a wry glance provides permission for access! Allright! My wife is just the most awesome, yes- most awesome- letting me wander off into the mountains in California by myself for a week. What a babe!

I'm thinking that if i'm there for some climbing on the 20th that it will be a great bday & the 3rd year running that i have spent it in the high sierra.

Here's the last one.

And the one before.

And now this one!


I ended up flying out of Bellingham to Reno where i arrived the afternoon of Friday the 19th. I jumped straight in a rental & pointed it directly to in n out burger in Carson, to enjoy the sun on the patio.

And some burgers made by jesus.

I got to MAmmoth around 10pm after some shenanigans via provision stops en route & eventually gained access to homie Charlie B's house. He was up in Tuolumne for the night & headed up to the bay, up to the bay the next day to slang some guidebooks & go to a wedding for the weekend so unfortunately i wasn't gonna catch him until at least Tuesday. Like the champion he is though, he said i could crash at his place for the duration of my stay. This was clutch to the whole operation & hugely appreciated.

It felt good to be at my home 1100 miles away from home.

I passed out pretty much right after arriving & chugging a beer while getting food sorted for the next day & woke up at 5am.


Day 1

It was my bday, I was alone in Mammoth & i was going climbing in the mountains. This was awesome.

I figured i'd head up to the meadows & check out something off my endless list of yet to be bagged Sierra peaks & climbs. The weather looked windy but nice. After stopping at the tuolumne campground & saying what's up to Charlie for a quick visit while he slept in his truck, I decided to run up the cathedral lakes trailhead. Same as on my bday last year actually. I just love this area & being my 3rd time up this trailhead it really felt welcoming & familiar. Hiking at 7am.

BEautiful aromas of the creek & the pine mixed up in my nostrils as i ran up the trail, wheezing slightly but feeling pretty good. I was on my way to the Matthes crest, & just having the best time, anticipating all the excitement of a new climb! This one had been on the radar for awhile & i was happy that i had thought of it as soon as my eyes had opened on this glorious day.

As i passed Cathedral peak i started to get that sensation of frolicking as i ran up the slabs that head north of the echos & down into the basin towards the crest. It took about 1.5hrs to get to the base of the crest by avoiding crossing the creek before cathedral & heading up towards the echos, instead i just kept on the nice trail all the way to Cathedral peak then went up left towards some slabs & taking the mellow right side of those until they plateau & give an excellent view of the crest. Damn this route looks cool when you first look at it from the side profile! I also found a nice chunk of pink quartz here which i took as a good sign. Instead of following the drainages down towards the lake i cut hard left across the basin, running like a freak through the nice forest & aiming for the notch between the summits. Once I hit the base i traversed right towards southern end of the ridge across, up, & down some fun slabs.

I was surprisingly unsurprised when i arrived at the base to see a couple pitching it out part way up the first pitch & 2 other dudes from Reno flaking their rope.

I sat down & had a PBJ & enjoyed the view, i wasn't in a rush but i definitely didn't want to be hanging around anyone today or dealing with any traffic. The part i love most about soloing is being alone & do my best to elude others when partaking in the craft.

After a snack & chilling out for a bit it had been about 25min that i had been hanging at the base. I put my pack on & wandered over to the notch to enjoy the view to the east & looked up to see a beautiful splitter handcrack covered in knobs heading up the prow in the sunshine. I looked over at the other parties around the corner in the shade & wondered what the deal was? Were they off route? Or was I? This looked pretty damn good enough to me!

Way better than good enough!!

So off i went, & i must say that Matthes crest is fun as sh#t. After the initial crack which turned out to be a close to vertical 5.6/7 glory jug haul i quickly gained the crest where my jaw dropped while looking at everything that i would get to climb! Lucky!!

I took off running. Good exposure & lots of easy scrambling on the first part led to a 5.7/8ish corner up to the north summit. I thought i was almost done but the second half actually took considerably longer than the first & contained some really great 5th class climbing & many wonderful positions!

The crest took about 3 hours or so with quite a few breaks to enjoy the position & views. I thought about doing something else but that route had just been so perfect that I decided to Just run back down to the meadows. I got back to the car for a round trip of just over 6 hrs & felt like that was just worth the price of admission & I had a week to hang out now! Psyched!

I went to the river & jumped in which was cold as ice & then chilled in the sun on the granite for awhile before grabbing a beer & goin to the hotsprings, then i got some doobage & went and argued with ppl on supertopo @ Charlies before KO'ing early. F*#kin awesome bday, so mellow.

So i wasn't sure if i would post this due to all the gopro/soloing haters on this site & the fact that this edit is a memory for me, not a video intended for spraydown purposes(@ least until now)- so be warned!!! I made a little edit of climbing on matthes. Originally i had planned to take a few pano's with the go pro but once i saw how cool it was up there i knew i had to get some footage :-) enjoy!!

Warning- irresponsible POV gopro footage


Day 2

I woke up at 5 again, hoping to climb more mountains. I felt pretty good except my feet were sore since i had obviously worn brand new gandas the day previous on Matthes. I had heard that snow was forecast in the afternoon so figured i'd need to go fast. The plan was mount Humphreys, i had brown pointed it last year from the west side & really wanted to get up on that skyline this time!

I figured i'd do it from the owens valley up the east arete. I figured if i was on the route by 1030-11 1 I'd be good for the afternoon storms, it appeared that the approach to the actual ridge would likely be the crux. I was passing the milks around 645 & went for a while along those roads until it was getting pretty rowdy for the rental. About 45 min at least. Eventually I found what i thought was the parking & started walking down the rough road, lookin up at Hump. After awhile i got to what i thought was the road that heads up to the 4x parking. Eventually, after a pretty solid elevation gain i got to where the road ended, not much of a parking spot but i saw a faint trail goin up the ridge through the sand & sage.

This went on for a bit before the trail became intermittent, I followed some cairns for a bit up the steep hill which kept rolling over onto these little sandy dips a few hundred feet long or so before going back up steep terrain. I had a poor vantage of where i was in relation to peaklet & Humphreys & was hoping to get on top of this broad, sandy ridge soon. After about 4 or 5 of these ditches I come over the top & realize it's another one! I yell really loud "mother f*#ker!!!" in dismay of yet another sandy ditch when i look up to see a dude with a rifle staring at me!!!!!

I Must have turned completely white. I ripped my headphones out & looked in bewilderment @ the dude! The first words i'd spoken aloud all day long + i'm in the middle of nowhere & it happens to be a bunch of profanity right in some hunters face. Lol!

I guess it was hunting season & him & his buddy were out looking for fresh deer poo & other sh#t to shoot. Anyways, we had a laugh & i carried on, happy to not have had my brains blown out. I also realized that these two were the ones who had put up the cairns & that i had just spent 1.5 hrs following them up a hill which was probably no where near the actual approach for Humphreys. Hmmmmmmmmm.

I kept going up. Eventually i summited this knoll, which steeply dropped down a few hundred feet through heavily vegetated terrain to a creek. McGee creek was what i thought. I could see a trail on the other side of the creek. I could check out Humphreys finally which looked closer but still a ways off. Way off in the distance, about 2 miles southwest, i thought i could see a well worn line that headed up arpound the left side of peaklet. I realized that this was probably the trail i should be on. By the time i thrashed to a creek crossing & hit the trail I needed a break. When i sat down it was 1040, Over 3 hrs of steep loose cross country bushwhacking. F*#k. I walked down the new trail i found which went past a dam & got really wide until eventually i popped out on a road & was able to see the actual parking & trail. It was now 1130 & it looked like another brownpoint was in the bag. Since the approach is supposed to be 2 hrs from the highest parking i knew i was screwed. I did not feel like doing 10-12 hrs hiking today + climbing time, i had planned for 7 hrs car to car in lieu of the weather. Boy i was dreaming. I had parked miiiiiiiiles from the actual parking. Ha! Humphrey's wins again!!! Looks like i'm gonna need a truck or a hella early start if i'm ever gonna climb this thing!

I figured the day could still be salvaged so i went bouldering in the milks. Yeah 6 hr approach to the milks!

Eventually the weather moved, in. In retrospect it was a good thing i was not up there.

After a fun, mellow circuit I went back up to Mammoth & went to Gregg (fishfinder)'s place for dinner. Another reason i didn't want a 16hr day was because i didn't want to blow these plans. His homie Jim was visiting from Malibu & we had an excellent meal & partied pretty good. Lots of good chat & laughs going on & Gregg's 3 course was divine! I had met Gregg the year previous & he is just the best sh#t. Such a kind human. These boys were getting psyched for facelift & I had a great time hanging out with them. We hoped to meet up in the valley if i made it there. When i walked out of Greggs place i wasn't too shocked to see it dumping snow. Hmmmmmmmmm.


Day 3

Ended up sleeping in a bit finally & having a chill start by going to get breakfast. The night before i had gotten a message from Lonnie k to go climb in Bishop. We decided to go back to the milks, i was pretty destroyed from the previous 2 days at this point so did a mellow circuit & took some photos. IT was pretty funny because i got to show Lonnie & his buddy Schniedy the ridge route in the milks up behind ironman & they are both born n raised lol! Love that.

What you don't know the ridge route??? Best problem in the milks. Go do it, here's some beta.


(i will repost this link in a bit maybe as it might not have finished loading yet)

We had a fun day & bouldered till dark. We went & got some las palmas & made plans for Monday. I was now fully destroyed but game for some more climbing on Monday if we could switch the style.


Day 4

I went out to the good life for breakfast, then headed to the tubs. Which was real nice. The last 3 days were all pretty big & i wanted to climb something still but nothing too crazy. I called Lonnie to see if he wanted to hit up the meadows & do something. Most of the snow had started to melt & it was going to be a good chance to see what kind of shape the higher country was in from the previous storm.

He was psyched as usual so we planned to meet up by the store @ 3. We decided to do OZ, a really killer route! The most Squamish like crack in probably all of tuolumne but very high quality, the first pitch was great as well & due to it being unusual face climbing on knobs & devious granite i think i enjoyed it more than the corner, which reminded me of just over half of the corner pitch of milk run at Squamish. I needed a rest day so bad but just wanted to move on the stone. I got Lonnie to lead the whole thing so i could just relax & climb, what a treat!!! Back at the car before dark was nice too!

I'd like to spend some time & just do a bunch of laps on all these 3-4 pitch climbs in the meadows. So much to do & such wonderful rock!

Now i really needed a rest day.

Day 5

Felt the pull & drove to the valley. The high country was ok, but definitely not prime for a lot of the stuff i wanted to do. I had only ever spent one day in the valley ever & didn't really do much. The first pitch of nutcracker, nutcracker direct, & seconded moby dick centre. We bailed off nutcracker cuz of rain.

Seemed like i'd know some ppl there too. Gregg was headed that way, as well as some Squamish contingent. There was no way i could climb on this day, & i was looking forward to trying out this el cap lieback i had heard so much about. A nice drive to avoid climbing seemed like just the way to force a rest day.

After a few stops for safety purposes up in the "high" country i rolled into the valley, wow. As soon as i got a chance i parked, chugged a beer & passed out in the meadow.

Fortunately i woke up to a text from Brownie, They had just rolled in as well. Perfect. A few minutes later we were burning one & looking around in awe. Big Mike texted around this time as well to say that he was in Sacramento & on his way. Cool! Always great to see buddies far from home, even if i had to leave in about 40hrs. Brownie had just got in from Squamish & him & his travelling/climbing companion Quelly were keen to go climbing straight away. We went to camp wall where Quelly onsighted some cool 5.9 & Brownie attempted some chipped/drilled thing shown below.

Eventually we went & said what's up to Mike & Sandra when they showed & lurked around for a bit before settling in for a stealthy one with plans to get up early.


Day 6

530am El cap parking. No, we didn't climb el cap.

But we cooked some oatmeal there. Quelly, Brownie & i. Quelly was gonna link up with Big Mike & Sandra & go dragging while Brownie & I were like kids in a climbing store. 1 full day to do something rad. We really wanted to do the Rostrum but needed a #5 apparently to go with our meager selection of gear which looked like a mystery booty rack made from garbage found up on the walls. Nice & squeaky for sure. I had this heinous red Kayak helmet that was Quelly's as well. All i had brought was my harness so it was kind of humorous to piece together this random heap of a rack. Anyways, our short term goal in life was to get Big Mike's #5 but it was proving quite daunting, he had said we could use it the night before but he was off the grid currently. We weren't too sure about blowing into the yellow pines & waking him up & we didn't know the scene there or if we were able to drive in there so we waited. Eventually we started scheming about other routes we could possibly do, but nothing seemed as cool as the Rostrum.

Unfortunately this limbo state went on for quite awhile. Way too long actually. The climbing ranger Ben walked by & recommended the Beggar's buttress to us which we got kind of psyched on, he also talked us out of the DNB i think. There was a lot of options & we didn't have a book or nothing so we went to camp 4 to try & figure out where this beggar's buttress was. After talking with numerous euro's we got a glimpse at a falcon guide & figured it out. It was about 1030 @ this point.

We drove around the loop again to the parking for beggar's & got out to take a peek. We sorted some gear & started to get ready to hike up when Brownie got the text from Big Mike saying he was up & we could come get the cam now.

Well, fuk. What should we do now??

We decided to go get the cam & do the Rostrum!!

So another lap around this goddamn loop road & we're on our way up the hill, finally parking & getting into some climbing about 7 hrs after getting up!!!!

Around 1230 Brownie took the first pitch & cruised up it pretty well. Awesome stone & a treat to follow, except my helmut got stuck in the chimney.

I got the next one & chose to take my whipper on the 11a fingers option, not too far above the belay due to ignoring the foothold up left of the crack. The rest of the pitch was pretty strenuous as well with lots of pumpy placement's due to not knowing the sizes for Rock empire, forged friends or metolius cams! Just a good old gear battle on a hand crack. My first legit lead in Yosemite- what an amazing pitch, wow. This route was living up to the hype!!

Brownie was scheduled to take us up to the midway ledge & glady grabbed the gear with a big smile & took off. Anyhoo, Brownie cruised it pretty smoothly up until he was almost up there, after what looked like a mile of steep splitter crack. I couldn't see him until it was too late but when he was around the corner & pretty much up on the ledge he peeled & took a huge one! Kind of a bit of a bounce off the wall before resting on the rope too!! Oh no, i thought. This didn't look good. Within seconds though Kieran was hauling himself up the rope & finishing the pitch!

Now this pitch was really a gem!! holy moly. Hands down some of the best crack climbing i have ever done had taken place on these last 2 pitches. When i got to the ledge Brownie looked a little shook & showed me his elbow which looked like a bowl of smashed raspberries.

He said that he had had his hands on the ledge & they were so pumped he had gotten up on his elbows & was in the process of some sort of t rex mantel when he exploded off!! What a sight that would have been if someone was on the ledge. The most important part though, was that he was ok.

Sadly though trying to continue did not seem like a good option. it was after 3pm & we had a ways to go, we were making good time but weren't sure if it would be a good call. Brownie's left side was pretty banged up & we had heard that is the side u gotta stuff in the ow. We figured i would do the 11c fingers & he would let me know when i got up there what was goin down. I was supportive with whatever decision, this had already been a mega day!!

I cast off up the nice finger crack & put in a few familiar pieces, The crack pinched down & the locks started to get spaced out. I made it through this section which felt like it might have been the crux & got into a funky hand jam & placed a good green camalot, After this i climbed up a bit via still strenuous moves & managed to place some sort of mystery cam after a few attempts @ placing a friend. I was starting to get super pumped but it seemed like i was close to the top. I punched it for about 10 more feet until i got to a really good, thin flake for the right hand & tried to get some gear. None of these fukkin mystery cams would fit though!! I had some offset friend bs that i kept trying to smash in that just wouldn't go!!!! I looked down at the mystery cam 10' below my feet & knew what gonna happen. I told Brownie that i was gonna be headed his way soon as i couldn't hang out or get gear any gear, I tried smashing the offset in a few more times before putting it back on my harness, unwilling to commit to climbing any higher above my gear i downclimbed a move & half & let go- wheeeeeeeeeee. & the cam didn't break! It was a rock empire & apparently the rubber sheath on the thumb loop did break but luckily i didn't notice. I managed to climb back up & finish the pitch @ which point we decided to skulk off the ledge. Since it was some of the best climbing either of us had ever done & we were both super psyched we left in defeat, but not shame. With plans to be back!

We blazed & enjoyed the view from the top before heading by the yellow pines to say what's up to Big Mike. Fishfinder was there & he rolled up & provided us with a plate of BBQ chicken & mashed potatoes!! Damn! Legend! We also ate some burrito's before heading out into a meadow to enjoy some stars & libations. Since i was leaving the next day & had to fly outta reno @ 6pm The plan was an for an early start & to go do a multi pitch with Big Mike! Psyched!!

Day 7- Final day

We ended up heading over to nutcracker parking around 730 i think? Brownie, Quelly, Big Mike & i. Not as early as planned but i kind of was expecting that, if i was to make my flight we would have to be swift. Luckily we were all ready to charge up this manure pile, my other valley project besides the recently added Rostrum & i was looking forward to completing it. We had bailed of the top of the first pitch when i was in the valley last.

We arrived just in time to see a euro party of 3 almost die when their leader took a huge whipper onto a fixed cam & broke the sling not too far up the first pitch?! The leader managed to dust himself off & head back up but it didn't look good from my angle. Hmmmmmm. We decided to see if we could head them off via the direct start, which i had done before. Oh yeah, i forgot to mention- We only brought a set of 12 or so nuts, in order to have a true nutcracker experience. I got the rope up to the top of the second pitch pretty quick & while i'm chilling out the buddy who took the ride shows up, instead of setting up a belay next to me on the massive ledge he kind of doinks around a bit & starts climbing up the slab above me, he ends up placing some jingus cam & then slipping, and sliding back down to the ledge! Oh man, please don't kill me, please just set up a belay, i was biting my tongue so hard. Eventually he walks to the start of the crack out right, places a cam with no runner, fights probably the worst rope drag ever for about 10' then sets up a belay in the middle of the crack right above us. awesome dude!

Mike & Brownie showed up right around then & since i had a plane to catch i decided we would bust the move.

As soon as the 3rd passed by our ledge i scampered up behind him & past the euro shitshow & took the rope out 70m until i set up a little hanging nut belay for a very Big Mike :-0 The climbing was excellent & we were having a blast cruising up this thing with nothing to impede us. Big Mike crushed, most of the nuts were too small & the stone was fantastic!

After a great little summit we decided to head down & figure out what time it was. Turned out that it was noon & i had to gtfo bigtime if i was going to make it to the airport in time. I dropped Big Mike at yellow pines & bid a quick fairwell to Gregg & Jim.

I stopped before leaving the park to grab my passport & flight stuff out, as well as to try to locate a certain bag of good charm that i wanted to ensure didn't join me on my flight home. When i found my itinerary i noticed that my rental car needed to be back @ 6, but my flight wasn't until 8! Phew, i was tripping for nothing it turned so i jumped into the river & let it soak in for just a few more minutes just how good it really is in California before jumping in the rental & heading over the pass to the Reno airport via the in n out burger in Carson again -What a fun week, felt really good to squeeze all that in!

Thanks to Charlie B for letting me crash & make myself at home.
Thanks to Gregg for being such a good sh#t, i really hope u make it up here sometime so we can return the hospitality.
Thanks to Lonnie for hanging the rope on OZ & hanging out!
Thanks to Brownie for 1/2 a rostrum. That's 1/2 more of one than i would have gotten without you!
Thanks to Big Mike for the #5 & the good times on the Nutcracker.
Thanks to the wife for permitting foolish climbing adventures ;-)
Thanks to you for reading my rambling.

  Trip Report Views: 4,386
About the Author
RyanD is a climber from Squamish who is always looking forward to his next trip to the Sierra.

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Comment on this Trip Report

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Nov 5, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
Thanks, Ryan. I'm envious of your week.

So another lap around this goddamn loop road & we're on our way up the hill, finally parking & getting into some climbing about 7 hrs after getting up!!!!

I loved that line, because i could have written it about so many of my own climbs. Well done all around.


Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Nov 5, 2013 - 04:52pm PT

Y'all were busy little beavers eh?

Way to stoke the fire!

Thanks for the view into my own way back machine...HA!

Trad climber
  Nov 5, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
well done chaps

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Nov 5, 2013 - 05:15pm PT
Nice work Ryan.

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Nov 5, 2013 - 05:33pm PT
Some great pics! I don't have the attention span to read it all but
a quick perusal noted

except my helmut got stuck in the chimney

Is that the German vernacular for "my johnson got stuck in my zipper?"

I saw this Swede once that had that problem, or maybe he did it on purpose...

Credit: Reilly
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
  Nov 5, 2013 - 06:28pm PT
Great! Thanks soooo much for putting this up. I just finished a workout and getting stoked to hit the rock on Fri/Sat. Yeah!


Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
  Nov 5, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
Wow...Very nice and the pics rocked...Thanx for sharing....


Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Nov 5, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
Well done....quite a trip!!!

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Nov 5, 2013 - 07:35pm PT
that was so much fun to read! you had quite the full range of climbing experiences there!


Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
  Nov 5, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
Into the mind and over the shoulder of Ryan. Great trip.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Nov 5, 2013 - 08:03pm PT

Author's Reply  Nov 5, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
Thanks for the comments all. I had a lot of fun on this trip & for the first time ever actually got really psyched on the valley! Except for that loop road! Always been an eastside snob.

Reilly, that photo is so funny. Totally how I felt as I don't usually wear a helmit.

Burchey, I haven't written a Sierra TR since last fall u fukkin gumbie tape glove bully but thanks for the bump!

Yes Phyl, that's what it's all about! Only thing I missed was a day of clipping bolts but that's not really why one goes to the Sierra IMO :-)

Released into general population, Idaho
  Nov 5, 2013 - 11:04pm PT
Nice pictures. The Matthes Crest POV made me nauseous. In a good kind of way.

Boulder climber
  Nov 5, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
You killed and ate it as it should be. Happy digestion.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Nov 6, 2013 - 01:07am PT
LOL my first attempt of the Rostrum ended in a HUGE storm flushing us off. I followed 1/2 of the 3rd pitch with a semi-waterfall (not joking) pouring onto me. Than had to aid the last section to the ledge.

Finally came back a few weeks later in dry conditions, and had a freaking blast. So enjoyable! You will crush it next time with more time in your pocket.

Me on 11c fingers (The Rostrum)
Me on 11c fingers (The Rostrum)
Credit: Vitaliy M.
KP Ariza

  Nov 6, 2013 - 03:01am PT
Man, that's a kick ass trip report.
Fish Finder

  Nov 6, 2013 - 04:50am PT
Hey Ryan,

Happy Birthday (belated)

Way to tear it up in a week.

Your wife is wise to let the Lone Wolf escape every once in a while.

You do make MC look fun in the Video.

Great to hang with you and those other crazy Canadians.
(Brownie, Quelly, Big Mike, Sandra and lets not forget Anders)am I missing anyone?

See you soon.


Social climber
  Nov 6, 2013 - 06:54am PT
hey there, say... RyanD... wow, this was FUN... REALLY enjoyed it all... the pics were really nice and clear... only they just download about halfway for me, :)) but i sure got the idea from the bits...

really great!

thanks for the fun share!!!

Social climber
  Nov 6, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
I can't think of any place I'd rather be for my burthday than some Eastside romp. Well maybe except for a nice wholesome crack binge with the Mayor of Canada.

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Nov 6, 2013 - 06:11pm PT

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Nov 6, 2013 - 09:25pm PT
You are living the dream . . . thanks for sharing.
Big Mike

Trad climber
  Nov 6, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
Ya buddy!! It was so rad to hang with u in the Valley!! Those videos were amazing! What does the Buttermilk ridge go at?

Nutcracker was a trip. I'll never forget the look on your face when that guy came off and the rockfall that ensued. So classic.

That one friction move off the ledge on the direct start was really polished and such a challenge for me to stand up on my funky left foot! I swear that was the crux for me!!

most of the nuts were too small

Lol, ya that's because i usually have lots of cams that size! Lol

I thought you were running it out all day because you were such a bad ass! ;)

Thanks so much for the ropegun Ryan! I was spent the next day!

I was looking for a pic I could add, but somehow i didn't manage to get any shots of you in the valley? Doh!
Next time for sure!
Mark Sensenbach

  Nov 6, 2013 - 09:54pm PT
super bitchin! cant wait till next year....

Trad climber
  Nov 6, 2013 - 10:06pm PT
Sweet! There is an In-n-Out in Mammoth now? Too long since I've been to the eastside. Thanks for the TR.

edit: see it is in Carson

Author's Reply  Nov 7, 2013 - 12:54am PT
Never smoked crack Relic, but if I had a chance on my Bday to burn some with the mayor of Canada I'd be down.

Big Mike, the ridge is not graded & not that difficult. Highly recommended though, Charlie showed it to me years ago & I think I make a point to do it every time I'm at the milks. It was cool actually cuz after we did it we saw some other dudes from Colorado head up there to check it out, never seen anyone else do it before. I'd really like to get someone to show me smokes rock course up there someday, wouldn't be surprised if the ridge is but a small section of it. Such a cool thing to be a part of that landscape.

Really appreciate the comments from everyone. I like writing & reading TRs & when ppl are into them it gets me psyched, whether its my TR or someone else's.

Even though I didn't really climb anything groundbreaking & actually had to retreat twice in 6 days of climbing (over 30% weenie rate) I had a blast. Not having a set plan or partners or anything I think made it this way & was a good lesson for me. Being totally detached from results & totally focused on the process makes for fun climbing.

Thanks again Gregg, see you soon? Does that mean you are coming to visit?

John, u gotta get back to the eastside! When there's an in n out in Mammoth I will be moving there :-)

Dirka, thanks.

Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Nov 7, 2013 - 09:22am PT
Great pictures, enjoyable read. I have wasted so many days over the years on missed approaches, but never been busted by hunters yelling at myself...LOL.
Fish Finder

  Nov 7, 2013 - 12:38pm PT


Im not sure they would let me in but I do plan to stop by sometime in the New Year.

the reference was to as how fast time can fly, betting you will be back to your second home sooner than not.


P.S. not enough population on Eastside for an In-Out
Jebus H Bomz

Sacramento, CA
  Nov 7, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
Nice, dude! I had almost the exact same day on the Rostrum yesterday. Methinks the "escape" is sort of the standard route for us mid level wankers.

Oakland, CA
  Nov 7, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
Oh yeah, this was killer! Your photos are always amazing.

Eventually he walks to the start of the crack out right, places a cam with no runner, fights probably the worst rope drag ever for about 10' then sets up a belay in the middle of the crack right above us. awesome dude!

Nice! Got to bring that no frills attitude to the Pile. Part of the Nutcracker magic is seeing the on-route entertainment.

Trad climber
Mountain View
  Nov 7, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
Dooood. Glad you had a good time in the ditch. Rostrum is mega, so many good cracks!

You should check out some of the climbs on Elephant rock and the Good Book (on the folly) next time!

Glad you didn't drown in the hoards of american tourists!


Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Nov 7, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
Whaaaaat?! Sooo much mileage and great photog man. You put the "rip" in Trip Report. Fun writing that makes us all go "yeah brah...I been there." Thanks again.


Social climber
Santa Cruz
  Nov 20, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
alright, I'll bite...what's a "brown point"?

Trad climber
  Nov 20, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
Great TR
Bishop needs an In & Out.

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Nov 20, 2013 - 01:56pm PT
How wonderful to read about you Canadian guys rock in' down here. Thanks for "the spray". It was a refreshing read!


Author's Reply  Nov 20, 2013 - 09:48pm PT
Oh cool nice to see this get bumped, thanks everyone for the comments and such!

alright, I'll bite...what's a "brown point"?

Good question.

My understanding is that the climbing term brown point is to be used when you make plans to do a route, pitch, peak, problem & get everything sorted, do the approach & have the objective within your field of vision but for whatever reason you don't do it. You either do something else or start crying or call ur mom or go back to bed or complain about the weather or poop in ur pants.

And yes u gotta love the Euro shitshow

Das roopendraggin
Das roopendraggin
Credit: RyanD

Here's some others that didn't make the cut for the Original TR

Big psyche!
Big psyche!
Credit: RyanD

Oh! There's the actual approach trail for Humphreys, I am way off, f#*...
Oh! There's the actual approach trail for Humphreys, I am way off, f#*k! Next time!
Credit: RyanD

Brownie on the way to the rostrum.
Brownie on the way to the rostrum.
Credit: RyanD

Credit: RyanD

The wave
The wave
Credit: RyanD
this just in

Justin Ross from North Fork
  Nov 20, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
One of the best TRs I've ever read. Thanks for the report.

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Nov 20, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
Ok, Ryan, Your explanation of brown point reminds me of a time way back when, when we were starting to hear the terms, redpoint, pinkpoint etc. And my friend Joe coined the tern "greenpoint" which is where you pay $$ someone way stronger and more talented than you to climb something and give you in detail beta so that you can later spray about how you did it, with all the accompanying body motions.

:-) Phyl

Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
  Nov 20, 2013 - 11:52pm PT
That is one heckuva trip report. Thanks! Did Matthes this year with two college buds and we loved it. Your thirst for adventure is evident. Great photos.


Author's Reply  Nov 21, 2013 - 12:15am PT
Green point eh Phyl??

Not a bad idea :-)


Social climber
  Nov 21, 2013 - 12:58am PT
Das Perpendickular, Das I can't move, DASSSSSSSSSSSS!

Wanna hit Cat Lake for some boulderin on Friday Rye Guy?

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Dec 6, 2013 - 12:27pm PT
Beautiful picture bump!!

Trad climber
  Jan 7, 2014 - 01:35pm PT
take another hit,,of sweet california sunshine,,[quiksilver messinger service]ya baby least ya went for the 11c off the ledge of the rostrum,i knew i;d have to come back another day,with bigger gear[balls,biceps],,still love that image of the T/Rex move onto the ledge by your buddy,,go big,or go home,,you canuks know how to gocheers,,

Just livin' the dream on the California coast
  Jan 8, 2014 - 10:06am PT
Glad this got bumped--I missed it the first time.
Awesome pix and hysterical write-up, Ryan.
You are one funny guy and a hella good climber.

Thanks for posting it.

Oakland, CA
  Mar 10, 2015 - 05:20pm PT
Easiest bump of the year. This TR has the goods.

I was starting to get super pumped but it seemed like i was close to the top. I punched it for about 10 more feet until i got to a really good, thin flake for the right hand & tried to get some gear. None of these fukkin mystery cams would fit though!! I had some offset friend bs that i kept trying to smash in that just wouldn't go!!!! I looked down at the mystery cam 10' below my feet & knew what gonna happen. I told Brownie that i was gonna be headed his way soon

Takes me right there, man. Good writing.

Trad climber
  Mar 10, 2015 - 06:05pm PT
Nice TR. Missed it the first time around.

The mathis crest video made me dizzy; I must be getting old.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Mar 10, 2015 - 06:54pm PT
Fantastic TR!

That's fun and we're havin' it thanks to you. So many different types of climbing all rolled into a week.

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