Trip Report
500' of Wyde iad
Saturday July 20, 2013 7:10am
As seen in widefetish
http://widefetish.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=809.new#new

From April 28th
500' of Wyde iAd!

I am hammered!!
500' of wide in A day yesterday

Inspired in part by Alex's recent write up of a Zion triple link, it occurred to me that I had the opportunity for a triple of my own, in my own idiom, available to me just a few miles down the road in long canyon, at an area known appropriately enough as offwidth city..  Safer too!

I've had a mini trax lines on both the Mayor, 12a and on Done Lubbin', for some time. I've been doing weekly or more often, laps in an effort to maintain Wyde conditioning.  if I added Sidewinder, 5.11++ squeeze/sidewinder technique I would have a trifecta and cover significant vertical footage. My original plan was to do 1000' of Wyde in a day...... But that would change.
I'd led all these climbs before so, lacking a partner, this was going to be more of a training / workout day than one of adventure.  

This morning I'm sorer than the day after Astroman.

I started late, to put them all in the shade.  Unfortunately this still meant full sun for the hike (1000' vertical gain) to the top of sidewinder. 69° in the full sun = f*#king hot!

A slow pace;  rope, pack,  had me having second thoughts about this venture about 500' into the approach climb. But seeing at long last, sidewinder slipping into the shade, it my mojo was regrooved.....

Scrambling up the 4th plus summit approach with my ponderous loads ( separate rope bag was a mistake for this action) was a chore. A nap was in order. Middle aged nude sunbathing shots were not taken!



Sidewinder is a long route! half of a 70 meter rope gets you to the flat spot fifty feet into the pitch. Ug. It didn't help that I left my minitrax on the summit, but I had a grigri... Which I dropped, fortunately it lodged in a crack, and soon I was off. Tr-ing with a grigri is a pain in the butt, as the auto feed just doesn't work right, and you have to pull the rope through every few few feet ( with a minitrax if slides through and keeps a running belay) even with that though,  the pitch seemed easier than I remembered, for the first hundred feet or so.  When I go to the sidewinder part, it started to feel like a lot of work, and like I'd been on the pitch a long time.  The grigri technique was especially cumbersome in the narrow squeeze. The sidewinder technique dictates the body being mostly horizontal, sometimes with an upper chicken wing and a lower, pushing armbar. So, taking the lower arm out of the system to feed rope didn't help at all!  Holding on extra long with the upper chicken wing is probably why my right arm is so sore today.

But, after half an hour or so I  was up! The original 1000' plan called for two more laps on this followed by two laps each on the mayor and DL... I took another siesta... And dropped down the crag armed this time with the minitrax!

This time it went much more smoothly. But fifty feet up it was obvious that the first lap was taking it's toll! By halfway up the pitch I was revising the objective.

500' of Wyde in a day would be enough for this first foray!!

At long last I sprawled over the top. After a brief rest, I gathered my stuff and hiked the 2.5 miles and thousand foot drop, to my car a mile or so below Maverick buttress.


On, to off width city.
I had recently left ropes on these climbs, so after a dusty drive to metro odub city parking I only had to carry a light pack, with shoes harness, jeans, shirts bandages, etc, the half mile to the crag.

D/l is after an initial awkward section, a straight fwd wide cruise of one hundred plus feet, lower 5.11 for someone of my dimension;5.10 145lbs, plus four ape index.

Danny Parker on D/L spring '13


...it felt like hell! That route goes for ever, especially after three hundred feet of 5.11 squeeze and five and a half miles of hiking in the sun! But I made it.
On to Da Mair, fortunately in my wisdom, and fifty years of climbing experience I'd wisely saved the hardest ( by a long shot) for last!!



Brutal! And I have this thing, brutally wired. It was a fight the whole way, cramping muscles, joints out of wack, torn flesh, the works!!

But again I made it, and rappelled, long before dark. I was even able to bathe in the ankle deep Colorado river.  ain't life grand!

Sleep was fitfull, and today I'm more sore than after astroman, or runing the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim ( though that was getting close) it's most similar to a fifty mile run aftermath I once experienced.

500+' of sustained OW 5.11 and 5.12
No hangs or takes
Six miles of walking.

Now to work up to 1000' and to work on the objectives this training is for, hopefully before I start drawing social security!

Sent from my iPad

  Trip Report Views: 898
Jaybro
About the Author
Jaybro is a social climber from Wolf City, Wyoming

Comments
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MikeL

Social climber
Seattle, WA
  Jul 20, 2013 - 08:30am PT
Unbelievable. Kudos. Excellence in action.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jul 20, 2013 - 08:49am PT
Keeping it real!!!
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Jul 20, 2013 - 08:57am PT
Sic!
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Jul 20, 2013 - 09:23am PT
Badass Jaybro keep it up amigo!!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Jul 20, 2013 - 09:45am PT
Pukerama! that is so bad ass.
MisterE

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Jul 20, 2013 - 09:50am PT
Hell Yeah! Way to get after it!
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Jul 20, 2013 - 10:26am PT
Jay Be Da Bro! Thanks for your inspiration.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Jul 20, 2013 - 10:48am PT
That is so great. Thanks for sharing the stoke and the pain and the sun and the vertical gain.

But it really really would have been better with middle aged nude sunbathing shots.
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  Jul 20, 2013 - 11:27am PT
Garsh!
Manny

Social climber
tempe
  Jul 20, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
Wow, I feel like working out. Thanks for sharing Jaybro.
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
  Jul 20, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
Noyice!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jul 20, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
Brutal! Well done. I am not jealous at all :)
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
  Jul 20, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
Spectacular..... but isn't it a little hot for the desert right now?

A technical question - any problems with the mini taxs ( or similar) top roping on OW's ?


Up til now I have been hesitant to solo TR on OW's due to crowding the rope clamp device inside the crack. Any problems?
Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
  Jul 20, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
But the real question is, how did the pedicure fare?

Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
  Jul 20, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
And Jaybro looks so unassuming . . .

But, we know better . . .
fat-n-sassy

Social climber
San Francity, CA
  Jul 20, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
Beasty.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
  Jul 20, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
Oy. Brutal.

My entire body hurts just reading about it.

Good job Jay.
WyoRockMan

climber
Flank of the Big Horns
  Jul 20, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
BURLY!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Jul 21, 2013 - 12:11am PT
Masochist! LOL,, how did the toenail job hold up?;^)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jul 21, 2013 - 01:01am PT
esprit de corps!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jul 21, 2013 - 02:07am PT

I am never going to complain about not having a partner again! A sane person would be put off by your account, but I'm inspired.

Nice job and thanks for the post!!!

Darwin
(ok, slightly confused about where you live?)
Stephen McCabe

Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
  Jul 21, 2013 - 02:30am PT
Jay,

Way to go!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
  Jul 21, 2013 - 03:13am PT
Molodyets.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Jul 21, 2013 - 10:56am PT
Pre pedicure Daphne& Ron. It did hold up well in today's Wyde adventure though. Heel toes have never felt so good!

Bruce not too pad. Some moves are awkward and it can take rearranging. But it gets better with practice.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Jul 21, 2013 - 06:41am PT
My condolences. I mean, good job.
ag.Fox

Trad climber
Reno, NV
  Jul 21, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
Here here! More wyde, please!
I didn't know the upper chicken / lower bar tech was called the sidewinder. Yah man, super gnar with the grigri
Thanks for the awesome stoke Jay - positively inspiring
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