Trip Report
4 days that didnt suck but a TR that probably does
Friday July 6, 2012 2:00am
Credit: Riley Wyna

Besides hanging with my kids this is my favorite thing to do in life.
Off work Sunday night at midnight and driving to The Valley - sleeping in the truck and waking up to something cool to climb.
First free solo of the trip - Tenaya Peak - car to car in a few hours with a swim of the lake.
I was feeling like Superman until I realised I wasn't - ended up in Lee Vining worried I had caught a virus from one of the sick kids in the ER.


Credit: Riley Wyna

Milktoast pic (Trade marked) ..jajaja

Next day I wake up at the crack of noon feeling strong - "let's get sum on West Ridge of Conness",I think. I'm looking for a 2 hour approach time and I am feeling good but as I crest the ridge above the last lake I get a strong gust of wind that is very cold - for some reason I decide to turn - to late, loss of energy, weather, i dunno... I think mostly it was the long approach and being a little tired from the sprint the day before....maybe I'm just a weak bitch.

Credit: Riley Wyna

I bail to some late day climbing at Olmsted canyon.
Sick cracks and some free solo and TR solo.
There are no pics of these in the new ST TM guide so here ya go.
5.10 hands - sustained


Credit: Riley Wyna

My present from Em for losing all my gear - cherished wide cam.


Credit: Riley Wyna

more crack


Credit: Riley Wyna

This started with a pleasant, scenic, self portrait in a Tuolumne swamp with 10,000 mosquitoes biting me.



Credit: Riley Wyna

And it turned into an attempt at an action shot with me in the swamp, jumping into some amphibian infested crack, and a million mosquitoes biting me.
Camera timers should be longer than 9 dumb seconds.


Credit: Riley Wyna

I wake up the next day still thinking about a Conness solo and a TR that says 3 solos 3 days. But I'm just a little too tired to try it again.
So on to Mammoth and an incredible 4th of July - I could be happy living and being buried in this city. I'm hoping prices get even better so everyone keep talking shit!!!!
I decide to solo Crystal Crag and after negotiating the parade I am at Lake George- I head up with rope and cams to rope solo but after the first pitch I ditch the gear and the rope and just free solo. At first I was a little underwhelmed - some pitches are chosey and there is a short class 5 head-wall, just before the crystal pitch, that was very exposed and loose. The crystal pitch is amazing but I was more focused on finding rocks that didn't move when I touched them. But after I topped out on the first false summit I was in bliss. You end up soloing the entire top ridge as seen in this photo. Man, really love that kind of climbing.



Credit: Riley Wyna
WAZ SUP!!
I was back down in a few hours - in time to watch a Bald Eagle getting harassed by California Gulls over Lake George. I still had time to try something I had been thinking about for 2 years - ya baby, cant wait to float some rivers on a SUP. Caught on pretty fast taking only a few cold plunges.

But a day in Mammoth never ends. On to a hot springs out in the Desert where I listened to fire works and I chatted with like minded souls while we all gazed at an amazing full moon.


Credit: Riley Wyna
Drove back to Kernville in the middle of the night. Today was a rest day back on the Kern River - swimming and sleeping on its sandy shores.
Scoping out Merlin dome, the horrible looking Needles, and the approach trails for Demon Dome and Voodoo dome. Finished off with a free solo of the Tree Route on Dome rock. My fourth ascent of that route in 2 weeks.



Credit: Riley Wyna

So amazing - first time in all my trips to The Valley that I had time to stop and enjoy Olmsted Point. Would love to do the route up this sea of granite to the top of Clouds Rest.

Back to work is gonna suck!

Credit: Riley Wyna

My daughter Jenny climbing at The Sad boulders the week before.

Credit: Riley Wyna


Credit: Riley Wyna

Megan and Jenny with the beautiful Em belaying - Horse Shoe lake slabs in Mammoth a few weeks ago.


Credit: Riley Wyna


Credit: Riley Wyna

Jenny and Megs with Tom watching Alex and Hans climb The Nose.

Credit: Riley Wyna

beauty


Credit: Riley Wyna

Not beauty -- smiling back at the base of Crystal Crag

Riley


  Trip Report Views: 2,179
Riley Wyna
About the Author
Riley Wyna is a trad climber from A crack near you.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
  Jul 6, 2012 - 02:36am PT
nice work Riley. psyched and jealous.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
  Jul 6, 2012 - 02:51am PT
Now that's a TR that DIDN'T suk. What a wonderful trip. Thanks for the share. Your daughters are beautiful.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Jul 6, 2012 - 05:42am PT
Sweet report. I like your Milktoastian Mug Shots.

Your kids are beautiful. Best part of the report.

Dontchya be falling off those solos dude, they need you walking upright on this planet.

Cheers

DMT
Scole

Trad climber
Joshua Tree
  Jul 6, 2012 - 05:43am PT
How did you like creature from the black lagoon?
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Jul 6, 2012 - 05:45am PT
You had me until I saw the SUP
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jul 6, 2012 - 06:16am PT
Cool times! Thanks

Check out my book, there are some multiple summit, trailrun/peak bagging suggestions you might be interested in in the Whitney region.
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
  Jul 6, 2012 - 06:37am PT
Nice Riley! We were thinking about you...hoping you'd stop by. PTPP and I had to drink all the beer ourselves! :)

Glad you got over and got some stone under your feet. Ding is right, though....those lasses of yours are pure gold.

Cheers,
D
locker

Social climber
"Sh#t shack across from the city dump"
  Jul 6, 2012 - 06:40am PT


Great seeing you use a "Kahuna Big Stick" and GUD TR!!!...

;-)
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
  Jul 6, 2012 - 06:48am PT
cute females, ugly males--no wonder you hang out with dingus.

looks like peyote cracks without the peyote.

stay away from dome rock. reference what bridwell told willens about GPA.
paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
  Jul 6, 2012 - 07:04am PT
canadian crackwhore :-) looks like fun, eh....
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  Jul 6, 2012 - 07:09am PT
next week Riley and I are gonna have a great trip report... hehehehe
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jul 6, 2012 - 07:14am PT
HA HA HA!!! Awesome, funny, beautiful.

Hey man, you're out there getting some. At least I'm not the only one that ever gets shut down....

Thanks for posting up!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jul 6, 2012 - 07:34am PT
Wow Riley! You know how to have fun.....AND, bring others along for the ride.
10b4me

climber
  Jul 6, 2012 - 08:37am PT
Looks like fun
Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
  Jul 6, 2012 - 08:43am PT
Looks like so much fun, really no sucking at all! How is your new rack coming along?

JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jul 6, 2012 - 08:44am PT
Nothing sucky about it -- that looks like it was a nice trip and it certain was a nice trip report, Riley. It's hard to look at Cloud's Rest and not have a desire to climb that face. Maybe next year, If I heal on schedule.

Thanks for posting this.

John
klk

Trad climber
cali
  Jul 6, 2012 - 08:47am PT
nice

tenaya is so classic

nita

Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
  Jul 6, 2012 - 09:02am PT
Nothing sucky about it
+1

Riley, It's been very fun watching your kids grow up...such beautiful girls.
Good to see you getting out of Texas, and enjoying your days off...

Cheers..
Tami

Social climber
Canada
  Jul 6, 2012 - 09:13am PT
Now that wuzzn't a sucky TR at all ( except, of course, for the SUP shot ) :-D hahahaha. NOw I've a question fer ya.............yer kids are really cute. And you ?.........uhhhh.......... hee hee ha ha hhaaaaa.....
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Jul 6, 2012 - 09:51am PT
It's super fun to watch you and the girls tag all these great climbing spots Riley!
Like drinking great big glasses of water from The Fountain of Youth.
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
  Jul 6, 2012 - 10:33am PT
"Now that wuzzn't a sucky TR at all ( except, of course, for the SUP shot )"

X 2
Nohea

Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
  Jul 6, 2012 - 10:50am PT
Real nice, way to get outdoors and around the eastside!

Aloha,
Will
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 6, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
Looks like a great 4th of july,
looks like you have a nice family!
Way to get after it!!!!
Thanks!!!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jul 6, 2012 - 08:30pm PT



best TR ever!!!!!

thanks.
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
  Jul 6, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
dude, your girls are gorgeous. where did they get their looks? 100% from their mom? oh yeah... I went there.


sushifest?
T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
  Jul 6, 2012 - 10:29pm PT
Propers on soloing CC North Arete. I only went up the walk-off, and that was enough for me.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Jul 6, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
Riley, you were right, this thread sucks because it proves beyond a
shadow of doubt that you have way too much fun.
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Jul 7, 2012 - 01:11am PT
Thanks everyone - the uploader works much better than it used too.
Doesn't take long at all now to do a quick TR.


I'm trying to work out the Sushi-fest details Nature - tough as I am working a contract all summer now. Megan has mandatory cheer leader camp aug 6th in stupid TExas. Everything is up in the air still.
Would be great to take them all to a sushifest again.
Jackie would get her third.
Kids would get their second.
I would be at maybe my 10th??
jajaja



Daph - new rack is better than ever - dropped a pile of dough at the consignment store in Bishop.Bold Text


Cragman - maybe next wed or thursday??
Be great to see Pete and climb with you and Flanders.
I want to climb at June Lake.
Maybe all of us can climb - i think Em is in too.
Maybe f10 also


biotch - that is a cool pic - i really had no idea how many pitches it was to the top of the first tower. It really wasnt that bad though - Really like long easy solos and I am used to loose chossy rock.
I think the line starts a little to the left though in the crack/corner with the ramp at the top.


As far as my ugly face - my kids are pretty intermediate - folks forget how dark jackie is - Jackie has pitch black Mayan hair. Jenny actually has blonde in her hair and Megs skin is almost as light as mine. But ya - thank goodness they look like their moms..


Roy - Hope you are feeling better and finding the fountain of health again.

Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Jul 7, 2012 - 01:08am PT
Nita -ya they have sort of grown up on here eh? pretty cool.
Jenny started climbing in diapers on ST

Jay? what book.

John - ya hopefully ya heal up soon - Clouds rest would be sick

Tammi - i guess i didnt realise how bad that photo was - folks on facebook telling me they lost their coffee...lol..
sh#t, that is my happy face...lol

Dingus - definitly do not want to fall....lol...but i never really have even as a kid climbing buildings- so i am pretty safe - nothing but easy solos for me..

Kerwin - be great to climb wit ya - Bruce said he had a blast with you..

As far as The SUP!!!
SUP is awesome!!!

nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Jul 11, 2012 - 10:05am PT
Drinking deeply from the cup of life as usual! Thanks for putting it out here so that others may feel quenched as well :)

Beautiful little ladies getting proper training for future adventures!

edit: I hope we find a way to make our schedules line up before the summer is over. But if not, climbing is still there when summer is gone.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jul 11, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
Awesome report man. Way to run a "lap" up and down our great state and get some stone and family time in along the way. High taxes and all kinds of problems, but man, trips like this make a guy grateful to live in California eh?

Crystal Crag rocks! Here's Adam strattlin' the crystal pony.
Credit: micronut

See you around,
Scott
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jul 11, 2012 - 01:07pm PT
This was great. As another ugly father of a beautiful daughter, I take pride in the contrast. We should start a club - the acronym is bitchin: UFoBD.

Jaybro: link to that book? Or joke?
msiddens

Trad climber
  Jul 11, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
Love it, thanks for sharing
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Jul 11, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
I've always thought that the view from Crystal Crag is one of the most beautiful I've ever seen - those gorgeous blue lakes spread out below. And the crystal is mind-blowing. It's a very special place.
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Jul 12, 2012 - 10:36am PT
Thanks everyone - hope i get to climb with many of you in the next well.

Nutjob - my phone is busted up and it is hard to text - my kids are going to be out for those days in July you mentioned - its all good brother!!

Much love Supertopo!!!!

I think Kalen is putting together a TR of out Hulk climb from two days ago.

Life is very good!!
Nothing like Cali


Wade - why you jealous bother - let's get sum!!!!!
fattrad

Mountain climber
GOP Convention
  Jul 12, 2012 - 10:45am PT
Nice TR Riley, thanks.



TheTool
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
  Jul 12, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
You are a bad man!I'm jealous! Nice TR.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Jul 12, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
Nice man!

Way to move around and get some!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jul 12, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
sweetzizzlin josephy phat!
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Nov 5, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
Getting some
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
  Nov 5, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
Yep. uh huh.
Jay Hack

Trad climber
Detroit, Michigan
  Nov 6, 2012 - 07:56am PT
The title of your TR had me cracking up...and its a good report to boot!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Dec 23, 2012 - 01:29am PT
Riley, never caught this one before! Always wanted to do crystal crag just to check out those crystals. What an awesome trip, cute family too, cheers.
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Dec 23, 2012 - 02:03am PT
The Crystals are great - big mongo things..
This is a 5 star mountain climb with a short approach.
After you top out you still have a very cool traverse do.
I would do any of the these climbs again.
Tenaya was 5 star also - i love anything where you top out on a mountain or tower or whatever,,,
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Dec 23, 2012 - 05:47am PT
Nice man
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