Trip Report
2010-02 Geek Tower Center Route (partial)
Wednesday May 23, 2012 2:10pm
I just posted this buried in another thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=371670

But I want to be able to find the trip report later so reposting here.

----
Ha ha, thanks Alexey and Jay for resurfacing this! I had wanted to make a trip report of our (my and Jay's) adventure as part of another report when I got around to reaching the top! I went back once, and we bailed because of ice sheets falling onto the route. Still need to get back there, hopefully this summer.

But here are my pics from our adventure:

General conditions in Feb 2010:


We solo'd up Sunnyside Bench with a pretty casual 8-8:30am start...







Had some excitement on the final bit of the approach; I tried the high road, which involved punching fists into steep snow with a creek flowing directly beneath. I retreated back to Jay's way:


The crew:


Ice in LA Chimney:


Jay gettin' it done on the first pitch, with an interesting step-across with suboptimal pro at the end:


I think this was looking down on P2, with some bushy mess out of sight below this chimney:


Maybe Jay needs Da Brim for his next birthday:


Jay gettin' to the money:


This pitch was AWESOME! I can't wait to go back and do it again:
Geek Tower Center Route - Awesome!
Geek Tower Center Route - Awesome!
Credit: nutjob

You can't tell but there is a solid hand jam buried underneath the thickest green part:


After I wiped my hand on my pants, this is what it looked like:


I did manage to get it cleaned up a bit more, but trying to jam later in the pitch from awkward positions, with that slippery stuff interfering, was definitely the crux.

Grunting along some time later:


Happy as a clam!


Cracked piton belay not inspiring, so we backed it up before rapping:




But first we enjoyed some glorious views:









A good day, but a short day because of the season, and we opted for the non-epic daylight descent.

  Trip Report Views: 1,712
nutjob
About the Author
nutjob is a climber from Berkeley, CA.

Some people call me the space cowboy yeah
Some call me the gangster of love
Some people call me Maurice
'Cause I speak of the pompetous of love

Comments
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Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  May 23, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
Nutjob always gets after it!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  May 23, 2012 - 06:32pm PT
Very cool, love the water fall shots!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Mar 29, 2013 - 12:44am PT
This TR needs more comments!
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California
  Mar 29, 2013 - 12:58am PT
I think the smiles in the photos say it all!

Great TR
WBraun

climber
  Mar 29, 2013 - 11:18am PT
The first time I went up there to do the center route I was going to free solo the route.

I dragged 2 7mm ropes to get down with.

I found a big hexentric nut with a biner at the base.

I took it with me for some reason.

I got up to where it's all wet and slimy and knew I could still do it but didn't want to take the possible risk of slipping out and dying.

The hexentric nut and biner miraculously fit in the crack at my high point so I didn't have to down climb out of there.

I went back later with Bridwell and did it with rope.

It was dry then. It's nice mellow route compared to "FreeStone"

Good job nutjob .......
msiddens

Trad climber
  Mar 29, 2013 - 10:54am PT
good stuff Nutjob
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Mar 29, 2013 - 02:35pm PT
cool story Werner.


Great job Nutjob and Jay!

le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Mar 29, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
Good one, bud. I regret that we didn't get it when we went up there.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Mar 29, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
Well done!
Mr_T

Trad climber
Northern California
  Apr 5, 2013 - 01:04pm PT
Geek Towers in Feb... only one crew could be responsible for that.... nice TR!
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