Shaken, Not Stirred, The Mooses Tooth V, AI 5

 
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Alaska, USA

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Steve's partner and the Moose's Tooth (pic courtesy of Steve Towne).
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Before flying home, we celebrated with pizza and beer at the Moose's Tooth Pub and Pizzeria with Harry Hunt and Stuart Parks.
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Rain began falling a few hours after our flight off the glacier.
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Great burgers and beer at the West Rib. Recommendation courtesy of Ryan who accompanied us and regaled us with tales of his past climbs and plans for the next 4 or 6 weeks in the range.
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Nice views on the flight back to Talkeetna.
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The 'Unforgiven' (MI5+, WI5+, R, 1000') which splits the buttress on the Bear's Tooth initially seemed to be an option for us.
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'Ham and Eggs' above the plane.
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Steve heading out for a stroll and to talk to our neighbors.
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The snow which began falling before we stopped above the Englishman's Col on Sunday-12th around 7pm, continued on Monday.
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A couple of rappels to go. Steve rappelling between spindrift avalanches that were sometimes waist to chest deep and seem to flow over us for minutes at a time. My ropes are not normally white.
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Steve re-entering the right-side gully after retracing his steps across the snow hump. I added new V-thread anchors in a couple of places to help make the ropes easier to pull.
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It was snowing, blowing, and time to rehydrate and head down.
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Steve coming up to our high point with the Englishman's Col below him on the left.
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Me - just over the snow hump and moving onto poorly-bonded sugar snow - the other crux on the route. It was more exciting for Steve to lead than for me to follow (pic courtesy of Steve Towne).
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Almost to the snow hump and then up to the Englishman's Col - Steve on steep ice.
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Steve barely above the sea of clouds and also just above the crux pitch of the route.
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The sea of clouds below us.
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Steve again, "How's the ice up there?" Me in the clouds under the overhanging stretch of ice, 'Steeper, maybe about 3+ for this bit." Truly fine and fun ice (pic courtesy of Steve Towne).
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Steve to me, "How's the ice?" Me, "About AI 3" (pic courtesy of Steve Towne).
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Heading for the crux chockstone. Swinging leads and simul-climbing worked out perfectly to my advantage again - thank you, Steve! (pic courtesy of Steve Towne).
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