Spaceshot, Leaning Wall IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13

 
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Zion National Park, Utah, USA

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Summary of All Ratings

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Rating Distribution
2 Total Ratings
5 star: 50%  (1)
4 star: 50%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 5, 2013 - 01:34pm
 
Bad choice for a first wall; the rating belies the commitment and exposure factor.
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Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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   Nov 5, 2013 - 11:44am
Fun, easy climbing on the entire route. If it's your first aid route the fix and fire method will probably suit you best, but if you've done a few routes in Zion there should be no need, so just send it in a day. All anchors on the head wall are double drilled pin anchors with the exception of the top of pitch 6 which sports one SS bolt.

The "Space Shot" pitch is by far the most exhilarating "easy" free climbing I've ever done, and the bolt ladder is a blast! No need for a big cam at the top as the free climbing off the final bolt is super easy.

Bring one normal hook which you'll use on the first bolt ladder and the final. One set of offset cams, and one set of stoppers will get you through the crux easily. We brought triples from yellow alien to #3 camalot with doubles from purple C3 to #4 camalot. Never used any cam smaller than 0/1 offset metolius.

The raps are super easy to find in the daylight, and probably not much harder in the night time if using the supertopo beta.



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clustiere

Trad climber
berkeley ca
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   Jul 31, 2009 - 05:50pm
A great line!! The blown out pods take HBs and up hight has awesome handcracks to one last pitch of aid.
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Leaning Wall - Spaceshot IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13 - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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