Moonlight Buttress, Moonlight Buttress Area 5.12d or 5.9 C1

 
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Zion National Park, Utah, USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 100%  (3)
4 star: 0%  (0)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Brew Monkey

Big Wall climber
Bend Ory-Gun
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   Jul 31, 2009 - 07:09pm
Unbelievable! Soloed it back in 2003. Never too hard or dangerous; its C1 the whole way except for the first pitch (5.8-5.9). I found a 4" piece useful in the slot on pitch 5. Many Metolious yellow's on P.4 and red/orange up higher. One could sleep on top of 5, but a portaledge is better. The upper half of the route is super fun and clean. If this a first wall for anyone; don't get tripped out by the 4th pitch. Its a bit exposed and thin. Keep in mind that it only gets better and better the higher you go.
Gear: Lots of TCU's; one cliff hanger; Many small/med stoppers; 2 sets up to #2 camalot, 1 #3 & 1 #4.
Please do not cam hook! The route is showing wear from them (ie. under roof of Pitch 2).
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clustiere

Trad climber
berkeley ca
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   Jul 31, 2009 - 02:48pm
Simply awesome!!!!
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Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
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   Oct 22, 2011 - 12:13am
Tim and I had a great time on this route over a couple of days. Starting late and sleeping in everyday we completely enjoyed two nights on the wall. We had the entire route to ourselves.
An unreal route!
So far beyond what I could imagine, and anything I have previously seen or climbed, that I don't have a comparison.
Maybe it compares to The Rostrum except it is substantially steeper and cleaner.
The bottom dihedrel is exceptional but what is other-worldly is how the crack continues forever perfectly splitting the upper head wall for 600 feet; over hanging all the way till the last moves of the last pitch.

And we got buzzed by two California Condors high up on the headwall. One bird coming within about 5 feet of me.

We loved it so much we walked the wrong way on the West Rim Trail for a few hours forcing a sublime back country bivy and giving us a nice 7 mile haul bag hike.ughh!
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Moonlight Buttress Area - Moonlight Buttress 5.12d or 5.9 C1 - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click to Enlarge
The route as seen from the loop road.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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