North Face, The Rostrum 5.11c

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

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4 Total Ratings
5 star: 100%  (4)
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Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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   Jun 8, 2012 - 08:08am
you don't climb the little crack - it's just a seam. It takes a 1/2" cam and keeps the big cam you left below from being sucked into the crack

Which is important. There used to be two nice #5 camalots abandoned deep in that crack (until I laboriously fished one out with hooks and a ski pole)

Peace

Karl
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jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Jun 8, 2012 - 08:07am
 
Brilliant. Thanks David.
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David Wilson

climber
CA
Jun 8, 2012 - 07:59am
 
You don't climb the little crack - it's just a seam. It takes a 1/2" cam and keeps the big cam you left below from being sucked into the crack
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jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Jun 8, 2012 - 05:20am
 
Also, on Rostrum's last pitch (5.9 OW), right after it becomes too wide and #6BD doesn't fit anymore, there is a hidden little crack on the right wall that takes small (blue to yellow) aliens - it's a nice alternative to doing 5.7/8X moves at the top of the OW.

Does this mean that you climb this hidden crack, or does it mean that you place gear in it but climb the offwidth as normal?

Thanks
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pitu

Trad climber
barcelona, spain
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   Oct 3, 2011 - 06:11am
Favourite route in the Valley!
Credit: pitu
Credit: pitu
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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   Feb 24, 2011 - 08:30am
Video of Alex Honnold soloing Astroman and the Rostrum

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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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   Oct 8, 2008 - 04:59pm
I got this bets from a supertopo user:

a. Rostrum descent - you really need a 60m rope for one of the rappels.
Also, on Rostrum's last pitch (5.9 OW), right after it becomes too wide and #6BD doesn't fit anymore, there is a hidden little crack on the right wall that takes small (blue to yellow) aliens - it's a nice alternative to doing 5.7/8X moves at the top of the OW.
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Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 23, 2007 - 03:57am
 
2007 update - it's closed as usual, from February to probably August 1. See Mark Fincher's post on the forum:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=345903
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Greg Barnes

climber
Sep 5, 2006 - 01:00pm
 
It's open, the following was posted a month ago but of course got lost in the vast number of forum posts - Greg

--------------------------------


As of August 1st the Peregrine closures are officially over. At Fifi buttress there still may be a nesting pair with chicks. However, Fifi buttress has not been an area of Peregrine-Climber conflicts since there aren't many popular climbs on that section of rock. However, please avoid the top of the buttress for a few more weeks.

The Rostrum pair fledged two chicks, and they seem to have left their eyrie. A couple YOSAR siters climbed the route on Tuesday to see if are how the birds would react. They did not see or hear the birds the whole time. They are probably still be in the area though, so while climbing please try to avoid being overly boisterous.

Thanks everyone for respecting these closures. At least two more supersonic birds are cruising the Valley now! Enjoy the Rostrum. Keep it clean, and keep it safe.

Thanks,

Jesse

Yos Climbing Ranger
(209) 372-0354
jesse_mcgahey@nps.gov
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gouldy

Big Wall climber
Melbourne, Australia
Sep 5, 2006 - 05:56am
 
Any news on this yet, I get to yosemite next week and was hoping to get on this fairly quikly, but realised there maybe bird restrictions still.

Any news? It doesn't look like the web site has been changed since may.

cheers
Mark
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Greg Barnes

climber
Feb 13, 2006 - 08:19pm
 
http://www.nps.gov/yose/wilderness/peregrine.htm

Doesn't look like they've updated it for this year yet.
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chump

Trad climber
palo alto, ca
Feb 10, 2006 - 08:12pm
 
anyone know where nps posts closure info for the rostrum?

will it be closed this year?
chump need 2 know!
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Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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   May 14, 2004 - 05:48am
Route is closed due to birds, probably until August, but NPS will tell us when the bird have done their horny stuff.

Gives me an excuse to get in shape before heading up this pumper heaven.

Top is closed to slacklining and such as well

Peace

karl
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chas

climber
santa clara ca
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   May 5, 2004 - 07:17am
Just wondering about the falcon closure this year (2004)
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AJ

Intermediate climber
santa clara ca
Jun 10, 2002 - 10:37am
 
Hmm.. someone must have cleaned up the turds on pitch 1.
Did the route for the first time Thursday 6/6, it was in great shape. What a blast
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Stefan Griebel

Advanced climber
santa clara ca
Jun 4, 2002 - 03:55pm
 
As of 5/30/2002, someone took a sh#t on the first pitch, and there were clumps of human feces running all down the 5.7 lb. Pathetic and Disgusting. Rumors are already circulating about who the loser is that couldn't lower to the ground to quickly take care of business. Apparently, he fessed up to another group of climbers at the halfway ledge that I spoke with. I'm not going to disclose his name here, but I feel a public apology is necessary.
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radical

Intermediate climber
santa clara ca
May 27, 2002 - 03:11am
 
Thad my brother!!!!!
I'm already feeling vitamin R deficient.
Thanks for hauling my lardy ass up this beautiful climb.
radical
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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   Jun 1, 2001 - 07:02am
ANCHOR CONDITIONS

The following anchor conditions are provided by <A HREF='http://www.safeclimbing.org/'> The American Safe Climbing Assn.</a> Please support the ASCA. so that they can continue to replace dangerous anchor bolts on classic climbs throughout the United States. Find out how to help at <A HREF='http://www.safeclimbing.org/help.html'>www.safeclimbing.org</a>

 - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Rostrum, North Face - 5 bolts replaced by ASCA on 7/99

All belays have bomber bolts or bomber natural pro.
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The Rostrum - North Face 5.11c - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
One of the finest multi-pitch 5.11 climbs anywhere.
Photo: Mark Kroese
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