Super Slide, Royal Arches Area 5.9

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (3.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (3.4)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
16 Total Ratings
5 star: 6%  (1)
4 star: 44%  (7)
3 star: 38%  (6)
2 star: 13%  (2)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Toby

Trad climber
CT/VT
Aug 6, 2003 - 12:33am
 
Oh, by the way the tricky pro on p2 is hardly 5.7. Maybe if you stay to the left it is but a bit to the right and its easy.
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Toby

Trad climber
CT/VT
Aug 6, 2003 - 12:31am
 
Don Reid calls it super slab, but it sure does look like a kids slide from below. A but mungy, but fun. If it saw more traffic it would be great. Last 30 feet are what makes it. The last rappel from the tree kinda sucks after coming from nice bolts but not bad just some ants!
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Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
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   Jun 1, 2005 - 05:48pm
another vote for this route being 2 stars plus , 3 is pushing it. all pitches were dry , there are no bolts at the top of the approach pitch (5.2) , supertopo says there are but we did not find them . the last pitch is rad but climbing 4 pitches of semi veg to get there may or may not be worth it. the route is shaded until about 12:30 .
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
May 20, 2003 - 01:15pm
 
Here is some crucial beta that i left out of the new Yosemite Valley Free Climbs guidebook: don't climb this route in early season!

There is some grass and munge near and on the route. When the route is dry, this grass and munge is not much of an issue--you can pretty much avoid it all. However, in the early spring this stuff absorbs and holds onto water, grows out a bit, and is nasty.

After a wet spring like we just had, you shouldn't climb this route until mid-June or later. And also beware that this route is not the typical "been climbed 1000 times so there is no longer any munge or grass." It's a good route, but it hasn't had the traffic of a route like Sons of Yesterday to become cleaned out of all the grass and munge.
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Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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   May 21, 2003 - 12:39am
Another thing to check out about Super Slide is this. It defines the Eastern end of a Peregrine Closure. I can't swear if it's included or not, but usually the routes stated as the borders of the bird closures are off limits.

Those closures usually last until about August 1st so it should be dry by then.

Peace

Karl
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ricardo

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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   Jul 19, 2003 - 04:05am
Super Slide -- Super Slab???

anyone know what the real name of this route is -- there are some guidebooks that have this route as Super Slab ..

    ricardo
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Nor Cal

Trad climber
San Mateo
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   Apr 18, 2004 - 10:32pm
Did the route on 4/15/04. There was a little water on the route at the small roof just before the 4th pitch belay. We did the route in 3 roped pitches, soloing the first, roping the 2nd pitch taking it all the way to the wide crack in the third pitch (Supertopo advice for linking the 3rd and 4th). We linked the 3rd and 4th pitches, that was about 190', and the 5th pitch was great even though it had the most "munge" on it. The route took just over three hours from car to car. My partner really liked pitches 3 and 4. There was an abundance of foot holds all over on every pitch.
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ricardo

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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   May 3, 2004 - 02:18am
Some beta ..

the bolts at the top of the 1st pitch belay have been chopped ..

.. no biggie since you can build a belay on the crack.. or sling a rock ...

.. if you plan to rappel from the top of the 1st pitch .. there is a tree with slings .. so no big loss ..

whoever chopped those bolts did a good job since i couldn't even find where the bolts used to be ..

    ricardo
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Strider

Big Wall climber
San Francisco, CA
May 3, 2004 - 07:06am
 
Is this route included in the annual falcon closure? The notice that was posted only mentions that the closure area goes up to the Super Slide, but doesn't say that it includes Super Slide.
Thanks
-n
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FTB

Trad climber
Near the Vally, CA
May 3, 2004 - 08:02pm
 
Good for the bolt choppers!!! All those damn convenience bolts, right next to natural pro, need to be gone. STOP the madness. There was no reason for them. You can rap down to the anchors on trail by fire and get off.
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Greg Barnes

climber
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   May 3, 2004 - 11:46pm
There were no bolts on top of the first pitch when we replaced the 1/4" bolts in '99. Haven't been back there since, the 3-bolt belay shown in the Supertopo is probably either an error or someone added & chopped them in the last 4 years. Don't see why anyone would put them there, my guess is that it's an error.

As the Reid topo shows, there was originally a protection bolt on the 4th pitch, but it was only a foot from a perfect #1 camalot crack in solid rock. We removed the bolt, it never would have been placed if the FA had been done after Friends came out (it was done in 1971).
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FTB

Trad climber
Near the Vally, CA
May 4, 2004 - 12:58pm
 
Thanks for clearing that up Greg. And thanks for pulling the bolt next to the crack. Once again, you all are bettering the Valley's climbs. Not only by replacing original first ascent bolts, but by pulling the now un-necessary ones that have been placed.
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Nor Cal

Trad climber
San Mateo
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   May 4, 2004 - 07:16pm
When we climbed the route three weeks ago, there were bolts with chains on top of the 5.2 1st pitch (this would allow a rappel down to Trial by Fire), there were no bolts on top of the second pitch, the tree did have slings around it. The top of the 3rd, 4th and 5th all had bolts, just as the Supertopo indicated.
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Greg Barnes

climber
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   May 4, 2004 - 08:41pm
Just heard back from Mark Fincher (head climbing ranger), and Super Slide is:

OFF LIMITS DUE TO PEREGRINE CLOSURE

Please do not climb this route until the NPS notifies us that it is re-opened (usually late July or August).

Here's what Mark had to say:

yes, the closure does include Superslide- but not Peter's out or Trial by fire. Since Superslide seems to be getting more popular, I talked to our wildlife biologist to make sure it was necessary to close that route. He felt it needed to be closed. we will try to keep a better eye on it this year so we can open it as soon as the chicks fledge (its always easy to volunteer Lincoln for more work when he's out of the country...)

cheers,

mark
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Nor Cal

Trad climber
San Mateo
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   May 4, 2004 - 10:03pm
Super slide had lots of folks on it on saturday, as well as at least one party on friday. Does everyone check supertopo to find out about route closures or will the naturalist post signs?
It is vague from the posting that Chris put on the site if Super slid is off limits or not.

Greg, you summed it up, but how do folks know who dont check ST?
I bet we can find people on it next weekend...
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
May 6, 2004 - 12:57am
 
anyone have any beta on what goes on above the last pitch. i think and original aid route goes out left through the roof. and there are a few bail slings up and right. Possible extension some day?
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Greg Barnes

climber
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   May 7, 2004 - 12:17am
It's up to the NPS to post beta on the closure at Camp 4, and possibly a sign along the base of the wall. If it's not on the board maybe I'll put a note this weekend.

But posting it on the internet is better than nothing, hopefully word will get around!

Chris, sure looks like it'll go higher...and there's other stuff on that wall that looks doable. But most of the cracks are pretty vegged...
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malabarista

Trad climber
Sep 19, 2004 - 08:37pm
 
3 stars is pushing it for this climb. The last pitch leading up to the 5.9 splitter is so full of dirt and munge that I had to constantly clean the bottom of my shoes and stem to avoid dirt clods. This route could be much better if this stuff cleaned out.
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ricardo

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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   Jun 3, 2005 - 11:25pm
those bolts were chopped last year .. you build a fine belay on that ledge though .. so the bolts were not neccesary ..

.. i really like this route -- and think it is 3 stars ..


... if it gets more traffic, the dirt and vegetation will fall out ..

.. 2 years ago we trundled quite a bit of loose stuff on pitch 3 and 4 .. made the route much better ..


.. i wonder if the route is in the peregrine closure this year.. anyone know?
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Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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   Jun 5, 2005 - 10:33am
Closed for the Birds until later in the Summer
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Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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   Aug 23, 2005 - 01:17am
Just did this climb for the first time in years. Two stars is generous but the climb has this going for it

1. Shady until early afternoon

2. Nice exposed feel

The final 40 feet are great but the rest is merely OK. There's still plenty of dirt and loose blocks on this route.

Personally, I think it's lame those bolts on pitch one were chopped. We should be getting away from rapping off trees.

And the rap is a hassle. If you rap toward the base from the bolts on top of 3, you get sucking into a complex tree. When I visited there, there were tons of rope-eating branches and it was crawling with piss ants that you couldn't escape from. I was afraid to rap to a lower tree cause it looked like the upper one would eat the ropes. The passage to rap through the upper tree looked problematic too.

So I swung over and rapped to the ledge where the bolts used to be. I hung out while my partner rapped to the tree with slings next to the "loose flakes" on the supertopo. It's a full, full 200 feet to the Trial by Fire anchors from there. If your ropes are shorter, there is a tree with slings higher and west.

I could see this climb being a fun, non-burly but trad adventure to those breaking into 5.9.

But it left kindof a bad taste in my mouth

Peace

karl
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Duke-

Trad climber
SF, aka: Dirkastan
Dec 13, 2006 - 11:06pm
 
This climb was memorable for the last 45' of splitter crack! The previous pitches were of less quality, but still fun. If you have not done it, then you should.
-D
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August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Oct 25, 2007 - 04:29pm
 
This had some good sections and some so-so sections. But nothing that unpleasant. Maybe the traffic is cleaning it up some (more would help). I thought the wide finger finish had too many good footholds to be 5.9, but it was fun (if short).

We got down with one 70m rope (watch your ends!). Including rapping to the upper tree (it was free of ants). From here, we rapped to the anchors at the top of the 5.11c slab (that completely shut me down on toprope). At least when the tree is free of ants, I didn't find anything unpleasant about this rap route and there didn't seem to be much danger from the rope catching (although I am with Karl on prefering bolts over rapping off trees).

If you don't mind wide cracks, Trial by Fire is a good approach (don't be too worried about the 5.6 munge).
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chumbawumba

climber
SF, CA
Oct 25, 2007 - 06:25pm
 
August West

You might want to clarify which tree you went to with the 70 Meter Rope. It sounds like you reversed the route and rapped down past Trial by Fire. (I did this a few weeks ago with a single 60 which was definitly too short and resulted in exposed downclimbing - a 70 would be fine) Many people rap from the top of the 3rd pitch, off the slab, into into a tree on climbers left, if facing the top of the climb. If you go to this tree you might get stranded without two ropes.
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August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Oct 26, 2007 - 12:24pm
 
I rapped from the top of the 3 to the "upper tree" (climber's left) and then I rapped to the anchors on Rupto Pac. I didn't reverse Trial by Fire.
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steele

Trad climber
CA
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   Mar 8, 2008 - 02:14am
3 stars if it's dry and not in closure season. An easy solution for the bolt situation is ask the FA party or leave it as it was originally. I saw the need for very few bolts, belays can be placed about anywhere; with a p1 solo, you might be able to stretch a 60 meter rope and do the next 3 pitches as 2. Bottom 3 pitches about 2 stars, last 40' is good 5.9 hands/fingers needing TCUs/Jr. cams-- last 40' is about 5 stars.
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strangecargo

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Mar 31, 2008 - 09:53pm
 
Quite a few (big) loose rocks on this climb. There's a totally detached block in the chimneyish section after the splitter thin hands crack at the top of pitch 2, as well as a loose flakey chockstone right below the rap anchors on pitch 3.

I couldn't find the marked belay at the top of the second pitch. I thought I identified the tree to the right of the marked belay, but that tree was quite dirty and has a fairly large loose block below it that slid loose and almost trundled down on my belayer. I ended up building the belay at the base of the 3rd pitch crack.

This climb can only get better as the munge is gradually worn away.
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Brendan

Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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   Jun 6, 2008 - 05:36pm
Good for the aspiring 5.9 multipitch leader. Fun moves and good pro the whole way.

Approach: Park at the Awanhee, follow trail east for 100m then cut north and uphill. Continue Northwest on climber trails to base, cut west and uphill about 10-15m past a large offwidth to the base of the chossy start to this route.

Rack: Slings, few larger TCUs, full set of nuts
1-2: .5", 2: .75", 2: 1", 2: 2", 1: 3", (optional)-1: 3.5" (BD#4)

Belay 1: Crack at base of pitch 2 on nuts.
Belay 2: I suggest placing your longest sling on the rap-rings around tree at end of crack system, and traverse 10m left to other tree. Sling trunk with Cordalette.
Pitch 3/4: If you sling the far tree as an anchor like I mentioned above, I would suggest running the two pitches into one full length 60m pitch. Be aware that this link-up takes almost every foot of a 60m rope to finish, so use very long runners. Belay at rap-rings.
Belay 5: Belay is up and left of prominent crack at rap-rings.

Descent: You can rapell the route with one FULL LENGTH 60m rope. The rap from belay of pitch 4 to 3 takes the WHOLE length of rope. BE SURE TO TIE KNOTS AT THE END OF YOUR ROPE if you have a 60m. Even still the last time I climbed this route I had to down aid on #1,2,3 BD camalots anchor in crack I built to get to the Rap rings at end of pitch 3. Rap from belay 1 is off dead stump of Manzinida with webbing, 60m rope does not reach the ground. Descend right side and trend left on rapell from belay 1 to second rap bolts half way down. If anyone has some leaver biners, they would be nice to donate to the naked bolt hangers on this rapell.
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Feb 4, 2009 - 12:40pm
 
Just a heads up that there was a rather large rockfall at ~5:15 yesterday (Thursday) evening, between Serenity/Sons and the Rhombus Wall. Rock debris traveled along the eastern edge of the big talus slope there, apparently sweeping the base of Super Slide, but fortunately did not make it as far down as the Ahwahnee parking lot. I'll be getting more information today, but I wanted to let people know in case anyone had Super Slide in their sights for this upcoming (sunny) weekend in the Valley.

Greg Stock
Park Geologist
(209) 379-1420
greg_stock@nps.gov

HERE IS THE LINK TO THE FORUM

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=775200
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qinghai

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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   Mar 24, 2010 - 10:14pm
No indications of the recent rockfall on the route. Nice fun climb. The last 15 feet are quite a bit more challenging than the first 500. However, I though pitches 2-5 were all quite good. There was some water running down by the belay and bulge/overhang atop of pitch 4. The loose rock on the ledges by the pitch 2 belay is quite miserable - be VERY careful of the rope and other parties below. Also, someone dropped a full water bottle from several pitches up Serenity that came within a couple feet of us at the pitch 3 anchors - quite scary.

I would recommend against using a 60m rope to rap the route as suggested below. After watching a party get their double ropes stuck, I tried using a single rope to rap back to the ledge atop pitch 1.

Even with a full 60m rope, you end up short of the belay anchors at the top of pitch 3. It is possible to clip the anchor with a long sling and/or build a temporary anchor in the crack - but much better and safer to just use two ropes. Just watch out that can getstuck.

Park Service closure list indicates that this climb is NOT affected by the Peregrine closures.

"Rhombus Wall- Above Ahwahnee Meadow. Closure includes all routes west of "Super Slide" to the Ahwahnee Ramps, including all routes on the Rhombus Wall."
http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm
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Studly

Trad climber
WA
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   Mar 24, 2010 - 10:38pm
If you rap straight down from top of 3 you end up in a awesome Swiss Family Robinson style tree with slings and rap rings and then one more rap puts you on the deck with 2 ropes.
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the stoked dane

Trad climber
colfax, ca
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   Apr 11, 2010 - 09:27pm
fun climb. We never found the three bolts on top of pitch 1. Be aware of this for the rap - go to the "swiss family tree.." as mentioned in the tread below.
We linked pitch 1&2 (required 20ft of simul climbing w a 60 meter)
also linked p 3&4.
Overall a nice fun climb.
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kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
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   May 31, 2012 - 07:56pm
the only reason this route could be only 3 stars is the first two pitches. and frankly, i thought they were only a little sandy but otherwise a perfect warmup. everything else was pretty f*#king awesome climbing. watch the ropes rapping, some rope eating flakes/cracks on the lower angle upper pitches .
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Brad Roth

Trad climber
Milford, CT
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   Sep 5, 2012 - 11:15am
Alain and I climbed this on the last Sunday in August. It has great shade for most of the morning, and thus is a good choice on warmer valley days. I LOVED these cracks and flakes. The flakes came to nice fin-edges for secure hand holds and lots of oppositional footwork. I somehow managed to stem past the off-fingers part of the crux crack on the top pitch (thank God... that sounded awful) and enjoyed the finishing moves.

We found the Swiss Family Tree full of red ants who enjoyed our presence during the rap down. Overall, great climbing. I haven't climbed in a year, so I appreciated the less-than-vertical angles, and the fact that the difficulty increased pitch-by-pitch, making for a good warm-up to the climbing and the exposure.
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Paul B

Big Wall climber
Sheffield, UK
May 17, 2013 - 08:13pm
 
There is currently a block sat directly in the crack on the 4th pitch. Seemingly the mud surrounding it has softened so it's just sitting there. Take care.
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Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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   Jun 15, 2013 - 05:16pm
I thought this was a great route, worthy of "classic" status. I also thought it was soft for 5.9...with only maybe 10ft of 5.9 at the top. (I would have called it 5.8)

Just a note on the rappels. A single 70m gets you down the first 3 rappels from the top down to the big tree. From there its one long rapp that requires two ropes to get down. However it seemed like the 70 might hit the anchors for that 5.11 bolted face climb right below. That route has two good anchor bolts but only one bolt had a quicklink on it for rapping. We used a tagline to pull our 70m rope from the big tree.
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Nilepoc

Big Wall climber
Tx
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   Jun 15, 2013 - 08:32pm
The block mentioned two posts down is still there two weeks ago.

As Lambone says, a 70m will get you to the anchor for the 5.11, and someone should put a quicklink on the right Bolt. I left a leaver biner there two weeks ago for someone to collect.
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Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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   May 29, 2014 - 01:32pm
I like this climb! Awesome exposed location, and you can walk from the campground! We did the Trail by Fire 5.8 start to make a day out of it. Pitch 3-5 are on beautiful white granite crack systems. At the top of pitch 2, we moved our belay left to the crack, so we could link P3 & P4 and get a much more comfy belay station up high. Great adventure for folks pushing into the 5.9 grade.
Super Slide
Super Slide
Credit: Ed H
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Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
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   Jun 7, 2014 - 05:22pm
Climbed this fine route back in the fall of 2013. Enjoyed it very much. We had 70m ropes, so rappelling from the top, could reach the 3rd pitch belay easily. From there we rapped over the edge to the right (looking downhill). You can't see how far the ropes reach from the anchor, so I rapped down to the edge and could see that our ropes easily reached a big tree festooned with rap slings. If they had not reached I would have traversed back onto the line of the climbing route. From the tree, it was difficult to tell if the ropes reached the ground, but it looked at least close. Once committed a little ways, I could see that the ropes landed on a low buttress, so did not need to reach all the way. This descent route lands about 100 feet uphill to the left of the start of the climbing route.

But I am really writing to describe an event from the top of the climb. Augie was just over the crux of the last pitch when he called down to me, "Paul! Paul!" At the same time I heard a funny scratching noise and looked all around to find the cause.

There, 20 feet away from Augie, out on the headwall to his right, was a squirrel desperately climbing the lichen covered rock. (This headwall is nicely visible in Ed's photo in the post below.) Augie must have spooked it out of the crack. I was amazed that the squirrel was making scrabbling progress up the vertical wall. It even appeared to me that the headwall was a bit overhanging where the squirrel was having difficulty. Somehow it was staying on..... and suddenly it was not! It was falling free through the air.

The squirrel rotated and spread its feet as wide as possible, stretching its skin into a larger surface area, like flying squirrels. It was not flying though, only falling much slower. It could not make much forward distance and hit the wall about even with me. Again, it scrabbled with its claws to get purchase on the rock. The angle was lower, but it had too much speed. It was airborne again, spread out as best it could do. The squirrel stayed out from the rock along the route, which is not vertical, so it was making some forward movement. It was headed for the big tree at the top of the second pitch, and I thought it would be able to land in that tree. I was cheering it on, "Come on! Come on! You can make the tree!" But with its limited forward progress, it dropped just under the tree, missing the branches by inches. It hit the edge of the narrow ledge, bounced up, spread out again and dropped from our view.

Augie and I looked at each other in amazement. We still talk about it.
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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 7, 2014 - 06:57pm
 
Upper 4 pitches of Super Slide
Upper 4 pitches of Super Slide
Credit: Ed Hartouni
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Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Sep 7, 2012 - 11:18am
 
No Beta, but, when was this route first climbed? I am certain that Hank Ward, Craig O'Connell and I did it in 1975. We claimed no first ascent, but did do some gardening. It looked 'unclimbed', but we were not sure, so did not report it. There was no 'left over' gear, no bolts, but maybe I have the wrong route mixed up with one we did do. But...
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Royal Arches Area - Super Slide 5.9 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.