New Diversions, New Diversions Cliff 5.10a

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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1 Total Ratings
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Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
May 21, 2003 - 05:28pm
 
I like the route description for this one...enourmous knobs that still defy usage. I found myself mantling then riding one monster blob like a pony. The wall was dead vertical so getting from that position to where I was standing on the knob without diving over backwards was a fun trick!

Bring long slings for the knobs on the traverse to protect yourself and your second.

If you had fun w/ "one of the hardest 10a's" and you're feeling like a little solid 5.11 action, try out "Wasp" next door. (The Reid guide rates it alternately 5.9+ and 5.9d) It's really cool, but definately not 5.9. Bring brass nuts for pro. (Or do like I did and bring someone else to lead it...)
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Tattooed 1

Trad climber
Sebastopol, Ca
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   Oct 19, 2009 - 10:37am
This was a great climb with a lot of variety. Wide cracks, fingers, balancy face and knob climbing. Hard for 10a and definately hard for shorter climbers as there are some very long reaches between knobs. There are new rap bolts at what is essentially the top of the climb (a little lower than the previous top). Rap to the ground with one 60m. Also approach beta differs. There is a climbers trail directly across from the Generator Station look for the old power pole across the street from the start of the highway rock wall.
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karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jan 11, 2010 - 10:17am
 
Boo yah yosemite valley rock gods, you've created a work of art on this climb! Great big tri cams worked sweet in the wide crack at the bottom. The knob traverse was really fun and exciting, I utilized a mantle on the big tie off knob, to right crimp on little knob/ far right foot to get up. The top is more fun, left hands on knobs and right hand in crack. Beautiful.
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scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Jan 13, 2010 - 01:51pm
 
The bolts are essentially half way up the climb.
The top of the climb is at the top of the cliff.
There's good climbing above the anchors, you just can't
lower off using one rope, that's all.
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New Diversions Cliff - New Diversions 5.10a - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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