Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nutcracker, Manure Pile Buttress, Yosemite. Two years ago Yvon Chouinard discovered the remarkable potential of a 600-foot rock sitting modestly between El Capitan and the Three Brothers, a rock used as a training ground by the Park Service but largely ignored by others. Chouinard returned one evening to Camp 4 voluble about an easy route he had just found on Manure Pile Buttress (named for its proximity to a horse-dung dump). He christened his route “After Six,” for it was climbable in the coolness of a Yosemite summer evening. This pleasant route starts in a dihedral with a little tree 30 feet up, and follows (more or less) the crest of a rounded ridge all the way. The first pitch is F7, the rest easier; and one can take weaker parties around to the left to avoid the first pitch.
Last spring my wife Liz and I did “Nutcracker,” a new route of exciting and varied but never severe free climbing. Two weeks later Chouinard and I found a direct and more logical finish which rounds out the climb nicely. What is unusual about Nutcracker is that it is a 600-foot Yosemite climb and pitons are unnecessary. It can reasonably be done with nuts (artificial chockstones) and natural runners alone. The first ascent went like this: In May, we turned off onto a dirt road halfway between the Lower Brother and the east buttress of El Capitan and drove to the base of the rock. Starting 200 feet east of the dihedral of After Six, we scrambled up 20 feet to a tree and climbed a 50-foot jam-crack-squeezechimney to a good stance. Then easy face-climbing and a nut in a corner, a traverse out right and a runner on a flake and I was nose to nose with the hard part. So I fitted a so-so nut and draped a so-so runner on a so-so crystal (be brave, I thought, that’s a good runner on the flake below) and moved up. Then it was fingertips and toes across to the dihedral on the right, and easily up this corner to a good ledge, but with a belay in the corner because I did not have a 180-foot rope. The next pitch is terrific: jams, laybacks, and face-climbing for 150 feet with 7 nuts and 2 runners along the way. You can fix the stance at the end with belays through holes in the rock. Before the leader takes off on the next pitch, move the belay up 10 feet. He can use the extra rope. A good slotted nut in a little overhang starts the next pitch; 15 feet higher I slipped in a couple of little wedges which would probably hold the sort of sliding, bouncing fall one would take here slipping off the friction on the traverse, I told myself moving carefully left. I next went straight up past an overhang that required first thinking and then resolution; next it was marvelously sustained low-angle face-climbing where I could have placed twice as many nuts as I did. Reaching a small ledge bristling with quartz crystals, I climbed a bit higher to fix some nuts for the belay. Liz had some trouble on the overhang, but the rest went fine and she soon joined me. It was late and cold, and so we traversed off and went up easy rock to the top. When Yvon and I did the direct finish, he cracked the headwall in an open corner on the left--there are a couple of funny moves here--and then went slightly right and straight up. The finish is a bit thin, but if you don’t like it you can end in a bushy gully on the left. A selection of about a dozen nuts plus several runners will do. And a couple of the smallest Clog wedges are useful. Take them. NCCS II, F7.
ROYAL ROBBINS [url="http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1968/unitedstates1968_117-156.pdf"]AAJ 1968 p141[/url]
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mrbaksh
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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The mental crux for me was the friction traverse on P4 . Caught me totally by surprise. I climbed ,right, over the bulge plugged a cam and was like okay, so I can go up or left, went left and found it exhilaratingly scary, but managable. If you are a 5.8 climber and have some experience climbing on Tollhouse Rock, then don't worry about this friction section. The physical crux for me was the whole route b/c for some reason (i wonder), my calves were on fire.
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Sonic
Trad climber
Golden, Co
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Did it this weekend, before the rain set in and Pitch 3 is still slowly dripping water. There's enough to make that pitch pretty uncomfortable if you're just getting into leading 5.8. Harder climbers wont find it that bad, just really annoying.
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Shaking Knee Nelson
Intermediate climber
Golden, Co
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Try the 5.9 alternative first pitch. It has pretty good pro, and gets your heart pumping right from the start. Higher up (5th pitch I think) be careful on the mantle-move crux (5.8). The pro there is not very good. I didn't actually mantle the crux move, as I found some small holds for my hands to the left of the natural place for the mantle. I found that easier than a mantle.
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Bryon Snapp
Advanced climber
Golden, Co
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I came to Yosemite for a big wall but the weather was not on my side so I was told that nutcracker was worth the 5 minute approch. It was! The first pitch was wet but it can be done. The rest was great! Some one needs to bring a stiff coat hanger for the beginning of pitch three. There are two Hexes and a nut that some one dropped in the crack. The crack is about 14 inches deep.We took the left variation at the top of the 3rd pitch. That was fun. Bring a 60 meter rope so that you have plenty of rope on the 4th pitch. And dont use all your gear down low! I just want to salute Royal Robbins for doing this route without cams! Good Style!
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Mike Duzinski
Advanced climber
Golden, Co
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Just want to add to the comment below, the 5.9 start is fantastic, and it offers an excellent variation to pitch two. Immediately after the belay on the top of 5.9 pitch climb to the tree, go over tree and cut a sharp right to a crack on the face, this leads to good pro and several bolts, crux is 5.9 but real short at top of pitch, much more exposed and fun than the 5.7 standard approach. Enjoy
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
Golden, Co
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Just out of curiosity.. how is the gear on the direct start? (5.9 var?)
Any beta on the lieback after the tree on teh first pitch if doing it the standard way? Four years back I got on this and it seemed pretty gnarly with high consequeces of becoming a skewer if you fall..
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WC
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Thomas,
The gear is OK. Look for small stoppers and TCUs/Aliens. I liked the 5.9 direct better than the 5.10 face variation to it's left. I have not done the 5.8 LB start.
Have fun.
Will
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Bob Jones
Trad climber
san luis obispo
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never had a problem getting gear on the 5.9 direct start when i needed it. seems the crux sections always have good gear before it gets tough. as for the tree on the 5.8 original start, it doesnt really get hard for a bit after the tree, you can get lots of good peices after the tree to protect from a branch enima. the slippery lieback section starts well above the tree, so plug some gear and go for it.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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You've got to be careful on the 5.9 start as it is slick... a great crack to follow and get pro in though. I usually just climb up on the little step with no pro and get my first piece in the bottom of the crack, but it is a bit of a ways up.
Mick ("Social Climber from Dutchland") had a bad morning-after, took a slip while placing gear and broke his ankle pretty badly hitting the top of the step on his way past.
I like this start inspite of the history that I know about.
The 5.8 lieback start is a lot of fun and should be done sometime when you go up. I never worry about trees for some reason. The pro in the corner/lieback is good and there are places for your feet as you move up. Tie off the vegetable, grab it and move up on it.. Protect to keep your brain happy as you get up above the tree...
..."Call any vegetable Call it by name
Call one today When you get off the train
Call any vegetable And the chances are good
That the vegatable will respond to you
Call any vegetable Pick up your phone
Think of a vegetable Lonely at home
Call any vegetable And the chances are good
That a vegetable will repsond to you
No one will know
If you don't want to let them know
No one will know
'Less it's you that might tell them so
Call and they'll come to you
Covered with dew
Vegetables dream, Of responding to you
Standing there shiny and proud by your side
Holding your hand while the neighbors decide
Why is a vegetable something to hide?"
FAZ
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sfclimber
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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Climbed this for the fist time over the weekend. Party of 3, all went well, ample room at belay stations except top of 3rd pitch. Third pitch also suffers from some zig zagging - use runners. Made extensive use of yellow aliens. A bit run out from your last piece to top out at the end of the 5th pitch.
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oldguy climber dude
Intermediate climber
Redwood City, CA
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Climbed on Manure pile buttress last weekend- Nov 2,3,4 2001-- WARNING THERE IS
A BEEHIVE IN THE FIRST PITCH OF NUTCRACKER! (choose one of the alternate
first pitches)
Watcher an woman climber get stung on the arms, nose while leading it,
she did an AWESOME job of staying cool while getting stung, and leading (Kat,
you are my hero!)
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Granitewalker
Trad climber
3rd Stone from the Sun
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My partner and I climbed on Nov 5th, 2001. I just want to say "you're welcome" to who ever cleans the #9 stopper fixed at the begining of the first pitch (5.9) start it's in there pretty good. As always a truly enjoyable climb.
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Bryan Bower
Intermediate climber
3rd Stone from the Sun
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TCU's help protect the mantle crux
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Andrew
Intermediate climber
3rd Stone from the Sun
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I still don't think the final roof/mantle is the crux. The crux, in my opinion is the first 5.8 roof. I did this climb last month and it was fairly busy on the route, like usual. I watched 3 people climb the first roof and if you attack it as a lieback, which seems like the obvious method, it's brutal, or so those 3 people made it seem. The easier method, is to highstep for this nub on the right hand side, which is hard for some people to see. The mantle on the last roof doesn't require a full mantle. There are so many holds on the left hand side that it can be easily bypassed. Well, just my opinion.
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radical
Novice climber
3rd Stone from the Sun
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sorry, forgot the rating...radical.....
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b$
Trad climber
sf
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Nutcracker almost cracked my cajones on those two overhangs (especially the first one). So fun though. Killer views with alpen glow illumintaing Cathedral Rocks and the ridgleine above. C.M. and I climbed it late Saturday afternoon. Just in time too - the approaching storm was right on our heels. The third and fourth pitches are spouting minor waterfalls, but I guess it just adds to the thrill, right? If you haven't climbed this route, and you're in the 5.8 - 5.10 purgatory that I'm in...climb it, now, go ahead, why not?
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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only four stars, barely intermediate brad? thats probably the best 5.8 in the valley. guess your saving the fifth star for an el cap climb. (soon!)
Barely Int. Brad probably didn't realize it, but he was in some danger on the first pitch (didn't want to tell you while you were climbing, sorry). we did the 5.8 left variation start and I kinda forgot to place much pro until i reached the flake/fake traverse at the top of the pitch. my one sling on the flake was really only good for a small fall which luckily didn't happer to either of us. future parties beware: place stacks of pro before the flake, on the flake, and right after the flake. sew in it up, baby!
the standard 5.8 start first pitch was running with water. the 5.8 lieback crux looked like scary 5.10 in the current sloppy conditions. don't do it until the pitch dries in late april. till then, consider the 5.9 direct start which is the most secure way to start at the moment.
pitch three was definitely the crux in wet conditions. it had my full attention. next time you are leading that one, brad.
the crux mantel is just as exhilerating as always: DONT FALL ON LEAD! right after you pull the mantel try to the find some pro because 5.6 friction moves follow...
despite the wet conditions, this is one of the best times to climb in the valley.
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Dan Russell
Advanced climber
Mill Valley, CA
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I did Nutcracker a couple weeks back, it was very wet. I'd agree that it kept my eyes open. Still sucks up pro everywhere though. Also, I think it makes the route feel more classic to lead it with only nuts! Isn't that how Royal did it? A bit runout, but since it's all solid climbing, and you can get good nuts in at the cruxes, why not?
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Novice climber
Mill Valley, CA
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I agree, I have thought about that before..A definite must do for any climber interested in history...I am curious, did Royal do the direct 5.9 or the 5.8 start on his intial clean ascent.
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Crispy fried Scotsman
Novice climber
Mill Valley, CA
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I did this route in July 2001, but have just found this site so please pardon the out of date info...
WOW, this is such an outstanding route, where to start? It was my first 5.8 lead as a novice climber and it really lived up to my expectations..especially the 5.8 bulge on pitch 4, which I agree is a lot more fun than the mantle! A good sustained route with no uninteresting pitches and a magnificent introduction to Yosemite rock.
I agree with the idea of using a 60M rope...I sure will be next time I come for more fun in the sun...see ya all then!
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Steffens
Intermediate climber
Mill Valley, CA
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We did the Nutcracker on April 27th...Saturday. The morning was wet with residual rain and mist, so we waited as it cleard up and dried a little bit. Waited behind a party of three for a while, but I didnt really care that much...I mean the rock isnt going anywhere, and neither was O. We did the 5.8 start and just enjoyed the climb. Kind of chilly, especially when the wind blew...The rack of small to medium cams worked out well, and protected the mantle...kind of...with a tcu on the bottom undercling. Above the mantle, I climbed left a little because of the slow party still finishing, and found that there was no many pro options...so I sort of ran out past the tcu I placed on the mantle...very heady, but fun. Got to the top and just enjoyed the views. A great climb...my first time onNutcracker and a great expereince!
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Dan
Advanced climber
Mill Valley, CA
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i'm telling you, bring just nuts and it will work. and nuts protect the crux better anyway (in my opinion).
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AJ
Advanced climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Did Nutcracker for the first time Saturday 6/8. All time classic!
Did 5.9 finger crack on the right for Pitch 1- excellent.
The route is in great shape.
The mantle is scarier than I expected... a yellow alien/tcu is key, but you still don't want to fall.
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Other Greg
Novice climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Finally did this route after ten years visiting the Valley. Always crowds before, but we got it first this time. I guess that getting up early stuff really works! Thought the 5.9 crack start was excellent, if a bit slick at the start. My buddies had been playing up the mantle move at the top so much that I was getting kinda worried about it before I got there. I was nearly disappointed when I pulled the move. The hold is HUGE!!! You can get a pair of TCU's in the corner just below the mantle. After the last TCU placement, stem between the corner sides and step onto a good hold on the right wall, reach up and the big hold is yours. Then just muscle it out. Not that big of a deal.
WAY excellent route. Nothing too airy or scary, but just a buttload of great moderate climbing. Very nice.
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Fatboy
Intermediate climber
Mill Valley, CA
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We climbed this route on 7/3 and the day couldn't have been nicer. We did the 5.9 start and it was a little greasy down low but an awesome pitch. Also a nice belay at the tree in the shade. The 5.8 roof on pitch 4 was challenging but not that scary. I heard so much about the mantle pitch that I was all worked up before trying it but it's really not that bad. It was the only spot on the route that was hard to protect a good fall. Was pretty psyched after pulling over the top of the mantle. Also a thunderstorm was starting to crackle and we wanted out of there in a hurry. All in all, it was the best intermediate route that we tried in the valley. Highly recommend it!
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History buff
Intermediate climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Climbed this route for the first time in may. My partner and I were looking for something casual and still interesting. So we did this route in the way Royal first climbed it- we only brought nuts. This was the first climb in the US done without the use of pitons on the first ascent ( hence the name). I would recommend trying Nutcracker this way as it adds a little historical spice.
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Nathan Lunstrum
Trad climber
South Bend, IN
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Did this route on 3/8/03. We were first on the route at 10:45! Route was dry except a 10' section on the third pitch. First time up it for me. I found that a #8 BD nut protected the mantel as well as could be expected. I didn't find the mantel to be a big deal on lead, I'm 5'10", it seemed over hyped...you don't want to fall of course. The normal start looks hard from the ground but isn't that bad, the 5.8 section has a good flake, which isn't obvious from the ground, for your left foot till about two moves from the corner, get as high on the flake as you can then just smear and go, the holds around the corner are good. A great route, have fun!
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b$
Trad climber
sf
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Where is the earliest place to place protection above the mantle?
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WC
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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If memory serves after the mantle traverse right 5-10 feet where you will find a thin horizontal crack. (could be short thin vertical crack) I recall wiggling in a stopper and a small cam. Don't fear though, the climbing is much easier after the mantle.
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Bob Jones
Trad climber
san luis obispo
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used to be a bomber pin after the mantle. just over the buckets you pull yourself up on. if i recall corectly you can get a pretty solid alien in there, sorry cant remember which size.
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spacemonkey
Big Wall climber
sweden
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Does anyone know the speedrecord for this route? And if so, witch was the first pitch, 5.8 lieback or 5.9 direct crack?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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I guess I was scared b/c I remember my exact gear for the mantle, if anyone wants that much beta. (I reckon if you're reading the Nutcracker beta page you do...) I got a #1 Metolius Curve Nut up high just under the mantle and then a purple camalot in the horizontal crack to the right on top of the mantle. It's only run out at that point if you're belayer gives you slack. Besides, if you've made it that far w/o falling, you aren't going to fall on the bit of face climbing that gets you over to the exit cracks. Have fun.
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spacemonkey
Big Wall climber
sweden
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Someone?
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Aaron
climber
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Spacemonkey,
I have no official time for a record on this route but i could guess that it is probably under 20 minutes. This route is soloed relatively often. Hope this helps ..
Aaron
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Sue
climber
Northern CA
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John Middendorf did it in 8:47. I'm not sure if this is still the record.
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spacemonkey
Big Wall climber
sweden
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Thanks! Sue, do you know what start he used? The reason I wonder is that I have clocked myself (10.50) and I went up the 5.9 crack, it would be fun to see how fast people can go and what way they took.
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pbnjay
climber
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the 5.8 mantle jug-haul is totally protectable...you can sew that sucker up bigtime if you wish---aliens with pro at your waist if you're so inclined...this is as safe as it gets, don't let the other beta sike you out if you are a new leader.
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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just climbed this route on 5/11/03 .. started at 12:30 .. climbed behind a nice group of 3 climbers..
did the 5.9 start -- woah! scary .. (i'm still a rookie 5.7, sometimes 5.8 leader -- (led bishops terrace also)) .. but only the 5.9 start was free of lines .. anyways ended up aiding about 1/2 of P1 to get up it (french free baby!).
P3 had a nice river flowing down the entire crack system, and 2 ponds along the way, though except for a short layback section at the top it was not an issue (make sure you have plenty of chalk to dry your hands) ..
.. i also found the roof on P4 to be harder than the mantle -- very glad my partner led that ..
i protected the mantle with 2 nuts .. (small ones) .. got the mantle on my 3rd try .. and then protected right after the mantle with a .3 microcamalot right above the mantle. (step right to friction after than and run it out for a while)
definately memorable --
ricardo
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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redid this route on 5/18/03 -- its completely dry .. have fun ..
did the 5.6 start with the 5.8 traverse on the 1st pitch -- you can get some pro underneath the flake, but i dont know if it would hold -- i got a #4 BD nut, and put a screamer on it ..
.. come prepared with lots of patience -- we got stuck behind a party that took about 2 hours to do pitch 4 ..
ricardo
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Thanks for the Beta! Climbed the 5.9 start var yesterday. It is a really great pitch and I did not have any probs finding as much really solid gear as you want to keep it perfectly safe. Earlier posts talked of water all over P3.. that is pretty much gone now except for a 20 ft section and there is only some seeping and you can stem out in that area and avoid it all except for maybe one small spot. Route was packed yesterday but luckily we were early! Thanks again!
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dougs510
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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While hanging out in camp 4 at the slacklines, I mentioned I needed a rope gun so I might climb nutcracker during this classic road trip. Immediately, a very nice guy, Jeff from Bishop, volunteered (Thanks Jeff!!) I wanted to do some 5.8 leads so he proposed I lead the 2nd and 4th pitches.
We did the 5.9 finger start to the right of the original which is VERY NICE. I led the 2nd which Jeff assured me was 5.6 and no worries. However, I found a slot at the top of the pitch which was 5.7 and my first encounter with wide leading. I groveled and grunted through it. When Jeff arrived at the belay he informed me that a bear was swatting at my camelback which I left hanging in a tree. I'd forgot my cliff bar in there and the bear surgically removed it. There is a warning at camp 4 concerning these thieving bears and if your there climbing, you shouldn't forget any food in your pack or car.
Pitch 3 is so fun.... sustained 5.7 hands
Pitch 4 is even funner with an overhanging hands (my lead, thank you very much)
Pitch 5 is the mantel and just as fun again.
This route is classic.
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YosemiteCamp4
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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I did this route on June 19. I thought the 4th pitch was by far the crux pitch - it is long and fairly sustained and the small roof requires good jamming technique.
The mantle on the last pitch wasn't bad at all. The hold is very big and very positive and the pro isn't too bad.
Overall this is a great route but I think Committment and Salaginella are better climbs at the 5.8 grade. (Committment is a 5.9 but only has one short and well protected 5.9 move)
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ct
climber
WA
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Climbed this 3/13/04. Did 5.9 start var. Excellent weather, low 70s, no clouds. However, the 3rd pitch was soaking wet from 1/3 of the way to the belay. The best description comes from C. Mac almost exactly two years ago. It commands your full attention, bring lots of chalk. Almost all the rest of the route was dry though, and crowded even this early in the year.
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DavisGunkie
Trad climber
WA
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question on the second pitch.
I plan on doing the 5.8 variation, and looking at the supertopo, it seems that i will have two choices for the second pitch. would i be better off traversing to the end of the 5.9 variation or staying high on what the topo says is like 5.4?
or does it just depend on whether or not i am trying to pass people?
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Christa Whiteman
Trad climber
MD
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This was a nice climb, but I thought some of the other routes of equal rating were better.(ie, Bishop's Terrace. Harry Daley) Less crowded also. It was kind of hard to really enjoy the climb when you had to climb as fast as possible to stay out of people's way...
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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DavisGunkie,
if you climb the 5.8 way on the first pitch, you should climb he 5.4 on the second pitch. you would have to go out of your way to do the other variation for the second pitch.
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Strider
Big Wall climber
Mill Valley, CA
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