Climbed this route last year, felt like 5.10 as it was coated with bat piss, from a colony that was living inside the roof. If you like odd adventures climb his route soon. Just don't puke from the smell.
There is a 5.10a variation that leads off from the top of 2. Step across to the right. Do a couple squeeze moves in a left facing flare, then clean crack above. A layback/mantle 5.9? cap this additional pitch. There were 2 bolts to rap from (bring slings/rings). Rappel with 2 60m ropes straight to the ground.
Only did first 2 pitches. Excellent climbing, very short approach, 5.7 lieback first pitch and 5.9 roof second pitch. No bat piss that I encountered. Can rap from 2nd anchors to ground with 70m rope.
Pitches 2 and 3.
Photo: Todd Snyder
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