holy crap this thing is hard! I tried it on toprope for the second time last weekend (without success). It's a nice diversion after climbing five and dime.
getting into the OW is not that bad, i think. then you can grab an inside edge to cruise up the first five feet or so... but after that i just flail, bleed, curse, and repeat. just a little too narrow for a good heel-toe and a little too wide to lock in a knee.
A burly climb for sure. For an exciting alternative first section of the route, climb straight up the knobs to the upward angling black dike which marks the start of the blank face. Then do a balancy, tenous traverse standing on the dike and inching your way right along the narrowing dike. A single small crimp allows a large step across the the narowest section of dike, followed by a very long reach out to the knob, which then ends the traverse. The final dynamic fall to catch the knob is exciting, and the traverse feels heady even on top rope. Totally fun and highly recomended for those toproping the climb. For those leading the move is definately not recomended and anyone who does it on lead is both insane and ballsy as hell.
we TR'd it after working on 5&D. the inside edge changes everything, and I milked it all the way until about 6 feet from the where the flake levels out to the left. Probably should have eliminated the ridge to make it better ow practice, but when I come back and lead it it'll be inside edge up to the point I mentioned earlier, then some easy liebacking to get on top of the flake... I can never protect while liebacking, but your hands are so nice and positive on that edge, the run-out should be quite tolerable.... afterward maybe a big piece for the chimney-esque finish.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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