Pitch 1 is, steep, pumpy and wild. Pitch 2 is polished and technical and i felt was far harder than the first pitch. With a 60m rope you can just barely toprope the first pitch. Run a few laps on Outer Limits and you are guaranteed to get a really wicked pump.
I got by with 2 #2's and 1 #3... to keep the rack lite, you can add a hand size hex to toss into the constriction before the wide hand crack leading to the roof. But the crux of the route seems to be getting to the big pod, mostly on thinner gear.
I reset the anchor at top of Elevator Shaft-Cookie area last year. stainless hdware
Feb 9, 2002 - 11:12pm
Walk about 100 feet right of the start of Outer Limits to check out the Twilight Zone. The big corner's left side is the Elevator Shaft (5.8). The Zone is the obviously horrendous offwidth to the right of this. Bring your big cams and tape. Chuck Pratt led this thing without protection when it was first done. And you thought huevos were something people ate for breakfast.
Oct 30, 2002 - 05:26pm
Bring all the #2 camalots you have for the first pitch - 4
is a good start, but the more cautious may prefer more.
Yep - #2 camalots or something similar are a must here - 4 might be overkill but i wouldn't have complained with three hanging off the harness. Funky things about this crack... it flares IN at times so those bomber cams might open right up if they walk to far in. fyi
A beautiful crack, but polished and very continuous. I had 2 #2 camalots, 1 #3, 1 #3.5 and this was not enough--I had to lower partway up to backclean. Those with a streak of boldness could probably get by with this rack, but the ideal setup might be more like 3x #2 and 3x #3, and maybe even 1-2x #3.5.
Due to the inward flare of the crack, I felt like #3 was most reassuring higher up.
If anyone finds the skin from my left wrist on this climb give it back. The rock took it by force when my foot slipped and I had to catch myself. Great route though. I found it incredibly pumpy (but then again I usually just pretend like I'm a climber). Ditto about the #2's. I got by with 2, but wouldn't have minded another.
If you're not feeling pumped enough when you near the chains on Outer Limits, you can keep going and, instead of doing the traverse to the Elevator Shaft, head for the anchors of Orangutan Arch. It's another sweet stretch of bomber jams but the final moves are tricky (10c?) but the fall is clean (as I observed when a friend of mine didn't pull it the first time.)
From the Orangutan Arch anchors, you are in a way better position to TR Crack a Go Go, which is super fun but tricky to lead.
Climbed this again today, fine weather and no one around! Chris mentions below that you can just barely TR this pitch with a 60m rope. That's not quite right unless you have an unusually long 60m rope, you need a 70m if you are TRing from the base. The 105' length in the ST guide is about right. A 60m is only long enough if you swing right to the big blocks when lowering, or swing right to just below the big blocks when rapping.
Awesome climb except for the polish in the first section. Clean your shoes well to avoid making it even more slick!
I thought the first pitch was about 10b like the book says, not 10c as its shown here. Also, bringing extra 2-2.5" pieces will work, but they have to be placed deep in the flaring crack requiring runners on each placement (they still felt tipped out to me). I thought 3" pieces were more secure and easier to place in the 40 feet of wide hands in the middle section.
Bummer! Nice incut hold after the initial left leaning hand crack is flexing big time. This hold is guna blow. I think its my fault, I'm getting to fat. Pull down, not out.
Photo: Todd Snyder
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