I just did the first part to the 2 bolt anchor. This was my first 5.10a trad and with its great pro I thought it was a perfect push to the 5.10s. Towards the top try to just use small nuts. Using small cams will just block the awesome finger locks in the top.Most of the climb is a mix between liebacking and pure crack. With just the top being pure pin scar climbing. Don't let that fool you the finger locks in the top are amazing. I would recommend as a great first 5.10 trad if you feel confident as a 5.9 leader.
Nov 5, 2001 - 11:34pm
this route literally rained wasps from the roof above.
Nov 5, 2001 - 03:39am
This is a stellar route if you like locker pinscars and blancy mantles on mid-sized holds. Most parties only go to the chains I highly recomend going up to the bushy ledge by breaking left after the shiny bolt anchors then up the right facing short finger\hand crack bushy tree.
Sep 10, 2001 - 03:35pm
Climbed this w/some guys I met in Camp 4 who'd just come off Triple Direct on El Cap. They said, "if you can master the pin scars on this climb, you can make it up a lot of stuff on El Cap."
As a free climb it's a short and moderate introduction to flaring pin scars. It took me a second time to figure out how to climb the delicate last few moves with out grabbing the anchor chains. I want to go back to this climb and use it as pitch for teaching the wife how to aid climb C1.
Church Bowl has on of the easiest approaches in the valley.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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