Doggie Do, Camp 4 Wall 5.10a

 
Search
Go

Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 2.0/5
Sort 13 beta reports by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
What is route "beta"?
Submit Beta on this Route
Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (2.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (3.5)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
4 Total Ratings
5 star: 25%  (1)
4 star: 0%  (0)
3 star: 75%  (3)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Lovegasoline

Trad climber
Brooklyn, NY
Dec 20, 2011 - 10:40pm
 
It's been a long time since I climbed this one but I seem to remember a small side pull edge on the inside of the crack about where it cruxes, which acts as a crux de-pumper.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Dec 19, 2011 - 07:42pm
 
I believe when I did this route it was 5.9
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
Dec 19, 2011 - 06:26pm
 
it's a fine route....if your tears don't get the rock all wet...sheez..
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Dec 19, 2011 - 02:52pm
Lower half is pretty tricky, but protects by sliding a #6 C4. Upper half protects by sliding a #5 C4, and you can leave some backup gear in the blocks inside the top of the pod just before the crux. I placed pieces a little too high and the slings got in the way of my legs on lead, so it is probably best placing a #3 or #4 C4 lower in the blocks instead. Save #4 C4 to protect the exit if you have one. You're not far above the #5 at this point, but the exit is a tad awkward and very easy to protect with the right piece.

The route gives you a great workout on your right arm and it is easy to get pushed cams stuck on both sections (doh!). Great for doing laps.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 13, 2009 - 07:09am
 
this route is felt way harder than 10a if you have med size fists ( small fists is even worse). been spanked on lead - later figured out on TR that calf locks with hand stacks is the ticket on crux section
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 25, 2008 - 11:00pm
 
I think this is a great OW problem to work, the crux is up high and if you don't have orangutan strength, arm span and natural ability you actually have to have good OW technique. I can't think of a better place to work on that...

here is scuffy b in the crux



more beta here: http://www.widefetish.com/routes/doggie_do/doggie_do.html
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Jun 24, 2008 - 02:10pm
 
Are you sure it's sarcasm that you're dishing?
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
maestro8

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Jun 24, 2008 - 02:00pm
Does anyone on this site have a sarcasm detector that's in working order?
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Jun 24, 2008 - 12:56pm
 
That's a pretty harsh evaluation, for a climb you couldn't do.
Is "absolute dog shit" simply a synonym for "too hard?"
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
maestro8

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Jun 24, 2008 - 11:40am
What's the problem Rhodo, couldn't find a little kid to steal lunch money from? Can't find a puppy to kick?
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Jun 14, 2008 - 12:17pm
 
Translation: waaah.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
maestro8

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Jun 3, 2008 - 06:31pm
This climb lives up to its name... it's absolute dog sh*t. Total fvcking garbage. Set up a toprope and put someone you hate on the climb. Then sit back and get munched by mosquitoes while you belay.

Both sides of the crack flare, making foot stacks quite difficult. The armbars feel totally insecure. Thankfully, this climb isn't dead vertical... it's a bit slabby. Your only reprieve are a few knobs here and there to help your progress, should you even get close to them... they aren't exactly near the crack.

Just as MikeL promised, below, I got nowhere. The only way to progress on this climb, my partners told me, is to move a millimeter at a time. I was trying to inch up... I just don't get the metric system. Looks like I need to go back to OW school.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
MikeL

Trad climber
SANTA CLARA, CA
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Aug 7, 2004 - 09:27pm
Terrific workout. At the top (crux), you need long arms (longer than mine--I'm 5'8"). This climb will force you to learn technique--heel-toe, cambering feet, arm bars--otherwise you'll go nowhere. I got very frustrated at times. My wife thought that getting over the block midway up was the business; that's where she lost her feet on the climb; above that arm bars and double fists.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Camp 4 Wall - Doggie Do 5.10a - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
Submit Beta on this Route
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.