English Breakfast Crack, Arch Rock 5.10c

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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  • 5
 (5.0)
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Matt

Trad climber
May 14, 2003 - 05:42pm
 
P1: Get ready to grovel!
Gear: 2 red aliens, a .5 cam, 3 .75 cams, 2 #1 cams, 2 #2 cams (that should also be enough to back up the anchor). You could add a #6 friend, but it's probably not worth the trouble...

P2: Save the green aliens for the crux section at the top (check out the way cool pinnacle/flake thing that will have you treading lightly!)
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Fingerlocks

Trad climber
May 14, 2003 - 06:19pm
 
Got on this about three days after one of the recent rains. The first pitch was fine but the start of the second was wet, slick and had some green stuff growing on it (at least something likes the rain).
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dustonian

climber
Feb 22, 2009 - 05:49pm
 
Not the next step after Midterm IMO. Midterm is harder, and there's only one 10c move on English B... at the very top (a slick lieback). The first pitch is one of the best warmups at Arch and protects well with an old #5.
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Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Mar 22, 2010 - 05:13pm
 
Yesterdays I found that old bolts at the top of second pitch was replaced by new/good .
Also intermediate slings/cluster at the top of p1 one was completely removed. Now it is is safe to rappel English Breakfast, but you need two ropes
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Arch Rock - English Breakfast Crack 5.10c - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.