Jesus Built My Hotrod, Leaning Tower A4 5.7

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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lazide

Big Wall climber
Bay Area, CA
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   Sep 30, 2005 - 02:46am
Certainly your right to blast me Eric, however -

That was certainly NOT an all natural belay - atleast according to any topo's I have seen. There was already one bolt there (added on the FA?), and we had already seen atleast one signifigant feature of the route that had fallen off. The signifigant crack behind the natural placement inclined me to believe it did not have much longer to go.

The route was far more time consuming and intense than expected (and we bailed off it because of it), but I placed no chicken bolts or extra rivets on the 2 pitches we did.

Next time I'm on that pitch, I'll consider removing the belay bolt - if the natural feature is still there.

But then, you do like the precarious belays, eh?

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lazide

Big Wall climber
Bay Area, CA
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   May 31, 2005 - 03:45pm
Does anyone know the condition of the anchors on this route? Rusty 1/4 spinners? Bomber 3/8 rawl 5 pieces? How much fixed gear is laying around?
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lazide

Big Wall climber
Bay Area, CA
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   Jun 7, 2005 - 08:44pm
Wow - well Jesus definitely didn't build MY hotrod - very gnarly route.

Updates for the first 2 pitches.

Pitch 1 - Interesting hook traverse right off the anchors, to... nothing - the giant flake/pinnacle on the topo no longer exists. I hooked on a loose flake in the dihedral where it used to be.

(a big notch is now in it where the top crushed under me - luckily my hook stayed on the flake). Went at C3F (no need to nail, and the heads are well fixed and in decent shape). Amazingly steep, but short. Probably only 100ft pitch.

Pitch 2 - took a nice 20 footer just off the anchors when a hold I was hooking broke off (from the looks of things, seemed to be a common occurance). In general, the lower pitches seemed to be very friable.

A VERY sustained pitch, just keeps on keeping on, with LOTS of hooking and enhanced hooking. A great many hook placements have broken off and been replaced by enhanced placements or bathook holes.

Can be done clean (assuming the KB's under the roof are still there) except for the last little stretch to the anchors, which requires either some airy (and hard!) free climbing or a couple KB's.

The natural feature for the belay on top of 2 has a crack all the way around it, so I placed another bolt at the belay. (now a 2 bolt belay anchor). Second pitch was atleast 130 ft - felt longer.

Route was hella friable, and we were going too slow for me to get back to work in time on monday, so we penji'd to the anchors on the west face and bailed.

Maybe in a couple years, when i'm hard, Jesus can build my Hotrod. ;)
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mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Nov 30, 2011 - 03:03am
 
What's the word on the Jesus?
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karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Nov 30, 2011 - 12:39pm
 
The Cheesus is my Jesus.
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klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Sep 29, 2005 - 08:59pm
 
OK, so let me get this straight. You went up my route, drilled at a natural belay, bailed due to your lightness, and then proceed to spray on the internet about how the route is "friable"? Like it's the routes fault you coudn't send it?

Please people, it's exactly this kind of attitude this jerk has that has ruined aid climbing.

Mr. Lazide: please do not attempt to climb any more of my routes and add bolts to them.

Anyone else out there that happens to climb this route: please return the second pitch belay to the natural anchor that it was when I climbed it, thank you.

Eric Kohl
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Leaning Tower - Jesus Built My Hotrod A4 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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