Lost in America, El Capitan A4 5.10

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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2 Total Ratings
5 star: 50%  (1)
4 star: 50%  (1)
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Greg Child

climber
Oct 24, 2012 - 11:40am
 
Here is the story on why we called this the Fly or Die pitch. It has nothing to do with a fall, by the way.
before we started the route we were driving around Yosemmite in Randy Leavitt's car, a big old American boat of a car (I think he was a painter at the time, as it had rollers and brushes crammed in the trunk). Anyway we were listening to a story on a talk radio show about homing pigeons being a popular sport in the southern US. Most people spoke lovingly of their birds, and how they train them for these long flights. But this one guy described how he has a winning flock because he wrings the necks of birds who are weak fliers - and his specific quote was in full southern, toothless Deliverance drawl: "When I open that cage door I say to them birdies, 'get movin' little fellas, 'cause its fly or die.' We cracked up, and carried that quote up the wall. Any place the aiding got dodgy one of us would call down "Its fly or die up here." But when Randy got into the insane bulge of the eponymous pitch, he looked down at me, grinned and we both agreed right there that his lead would be named The Fly or Die pitch.
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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 25, 2008 - 06:37pm
 
Greg Child's account of the FA in AAJ 1987

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=729462
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BriGuy

climber
black hills, south dakota
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   Jul 11, 2009 - 10:20am
We climbed LIA June 09 and it is kick ass. Since there was no recent beta here is my recommended pin rack and condition of route beta post:

9 Beaks 3 each #1,2,3
8 KB's 2 each #2-5
3 LA's 1 each #1-3 (we had this, ST says 10 total)
4 Angles 2 each 1/2",5/8"
4 SA's? 2 each 3/4",1" (we didn't place any)

We tried to tread light with the hammer and had all the normal, essential clean gear: HB's (aluminum and brass), C3's, Hybrid Aliens (2 sets), 2 other sets of aliens, ast. cam hooks. We didn't place any heads and thought the route goes at an honest A3+.
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 5, 2009 - 05:52pm
 
great photo trip report here http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=922014
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Greg Child

climber
Oct 24, 2012 - 07:22am
 
Want to know how the Fly or Die pitch got its name?
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Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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   Oct 24, 2012 - 08:23am
Yeah, Greg, let's hear it!
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Silver

Gym climber
Oct 24, 2012 - 09:22am
 
That's like asking a crack head if he wants a rock. Hell yeah we want to hear about that

Pleeeeeeeaaaaasssse
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m_jones

Trad climber
Carson City, NV
Oct 24, 2012 - 09:35am
 
Heck yeah!

Always love hearing a good story!!
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Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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   Oct 23, 2012 - 10:47am
Max Jones and I climbed this dang good route over five days (with one pitch fixed) in October of 2012.

We thought every single pitch on the route was good and had at least some interesting climbing on it.

We removed 12-18 heads we were able to climb past via other means, mostly cleanly and removed 8-12 deadheads. Additionally we remove all the tat from the route, a condition climbers coming after Max and I climb a route better get used to since we have developed an easy and safe method of cleaning it from fixed gear using a 25 foot length of 5 mil cord.

We felt the ratings were usual a full number grade exaggerated. I base this against the "Coral Sea" on Native Son and the A4 on LIA simply can not stand up to the comparison.

On the "Fly or Die" pitch someone drilled a 3/8" bolt between two rivets as well as two bat hooks. These most surely should be removed.

All anchors are at least 3- 3/8" bolts and the ST rack is, as is usual, heavy on the iron side.

The "runout 5.10" is really no big deal and is less runout and easier than the runout 5.9 on Iron Hawk.
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Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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   Oct 24, 2012 - 11:45am
Excellent! Thanks, Greg!
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mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 24, 2012 - 11:46am
 
BADASS!!
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Gagner

climber
Boulder
Oct 24, 2012 - 12:13pm
 
Awesome story Greg ... I would have never guessed.....

BTW - Hope you are well - be out your way in a few....

Paul
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Jeremy

climber
Oct 24, 2012 - 01:46pm
 
Greg,

Thanks for letting us bust (Paul and I) in to your house and wake you and your beautiful daughter to charge our drill!

Cheers!

Jeremy Aslaksen
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Silver

Gym climber
Oct 25, 2012 - 04:55pm
 
Thanks for the story always fun to hear the real story after you have made up
A half dozen stories in your head about a pitch.

Funny stuff
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El Capitan - Lost in America A4 5.10 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Lost in America is route number 26.
Photo: Galen Rowell
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