Table of Contents, Stately Pleasure Dome 5.10d R

 
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
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del cross

climber
Jun 28, 2010 - 09:22pm
 
The first pitch has seven bolts, not five, and you're aiming for that little rooflet up and right... just like the Falkenstein topo shows.
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wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Aug 22, 2011 - 06:14pm
 
Lead the first pitch yesterday......Not technically as hard as Footnote (maybe two letter grades easier) but sideways runouts and head factor make it about even. Crux is at sixth bolt. Did it in the mid-day sun like an idiot (same as when I lead footnote).....saving the second pitch add-on for a cooler time.
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mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Aug 22, 2011 - 07:23pm
 
Second pitch add-on? Contrary to the slight misinformation in ST, it's at least a 3-pitch route, and the third pitch is nice climbing, very much worth doing albeit moderately run out. But since you will have cruised up the 10b and 10d pitches, 10a with less of a runout than other notable Tuolumne slab routes will be no problem. Finishes on easy ground with even some bolts on that pitch too. Enjoy!
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wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Sep 13, 2011 - 03:08am
 
Credit: wstmrnclmr
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okie

Trad climber
Aug 16, 2015 - 10:55am
 
Mongrel must be sandbagging about that third pitch. The climbing is classic heady friction, super good but the protection is very vintage and not to be trusted and the runs are beyond moderate. This should be a prime candidate for an upgrade. In it's current condition it should be considered a don't fall pitch. I wouldn't want to put a hundred foot fall onto the belay bolts.
My '86 topo shows three bolts but I only found two from the '81 FA. Maybe I missed the other quarter-incher somewhere. What I found was a 50 ft runout off a 34 year old thin bolt.
I get the feeling most will rap from the second pitch anchors which is a shame cause this rig will take you to the top on beautiful stuff.
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Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Aug 16, 2015 - 12:46pm
 
Sounds like all that needs to be upgraded are the bolts at the top of the 2nd pitch so that they will take a long slider. After the first 2 pitches, the 3rd 10a pitch seems quite moderate.
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mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Aug 16, 2015 - 01:41pm
 
I guess we need a definition for adjectives to be applied to length of runout, akin to the old definitions of A4, A5. I certainly wasn't trying to sandbag, just to encourage people who can do the 10d pitch to continue on and do the consensus "super good" 3rd pitch friction which everyone also seems to agree is in fact only 10a - and that only here and there as I recall it (fuzzily).

I would wholeheartedly support replacement of any original FA belay and protection bolts and hope that would get some more folks up there. It's a fine piece of a really good slab route, and having a comparatively not-very-hard but heads-up friction pitch adds a fun element to the route.
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Stately Pleasure Dome - Table of Contents 5.10d R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
This line ascends splitter cracks to face moves.
Photo: Greg Barnes
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