South Crack, Stately Pleasure Dome 5.8R

 
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
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  • 4
  • 5
 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
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  • 5
 (4.4)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
9 Total Ratings
5 star: 56%  (5)
4 star: 33%  (3)
3 star: 11%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
The Guy

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Jul 31, 2012 - 12:12pm
 
Climbed this route 7/29/12. It was a great cruise. Started at 3:30 pm and off by 5:45. The fingers are so awesome that you can step or smear on just about anything. The friction traverse was the crux for me. Place a high nut in the left crack and traverse below it. The sustained fingers crux is not really noticeable.
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Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
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   Sep 20, 2010 - 11:41pm
Not sure where the 5.8 was on this route.
I also didn't find one bolt.
Ran the crack out till its end- really nice climbing. But so far out of the league of so many other 5.8's or even 5.7's in the Supertopo library.

At the end of the crack I sort of went straight up, simul climbing a bit, meeting a few crux moves but no bolts. Perhaps i had to traverse further left after the crack.
That will serve me right for climbing a route with one glance at a topo.
Please scramble to the very top after finisihng the route. The view of Cathedral on one side with the Valley on the other is like heaven.
Loved this route- i could climb this casual and clean type of finger crack for ever.


riley
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Vendelkrakker

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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   Oct 30, 2009 - 06:13pm
While I would definitely recommend this route, I'd have been somewhat disappointed that the upper pitches paled in comparison to pitch 1 had I not been having so much fun on the easy but serious runout sections above. I'm not sure where the 5.8 was on pitch 2, where the angle of the terrain begins to mellow out. (It may be 5.8 if you only use your fingers in the crack, but using your feet is much easier.) All that said, the views are wonderful and I'd give it 4 stars overall.
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schilds

Trad climber
eastside
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   Oct 13, 2005 - 12:08pm
We had a great time on this route--perfect fall afternoon. We thought the way to go with the 60m rope was:

P.1--climb to optional belay (bottom of second crack)
P.2&3--link together (195')
P.4--referring to "alternate finish", 195'
P.5&6--simul all of this to large lodgepole, then enjoy the walk down

Great fun and a beautiful sunset with the moon over Tenaya Peak on the way down...

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Mei

Trad climber
...was...
Jul 22, 2005 - 01:51am
 
Hmmm... I might get on the climb this coming weekend. I'm thinking about bringing a bag with me to remove them (the boxer shorts...eee-yew) from the route if nobody else has done that. Is there any objection? I suppose they don't belong to the first ascent party. Thought I should check before I "alter" the route.

Edited four days later: Did pack a plastic bag and did get on the climb on Sunday, but to my relief, the trash was no where to be seen. Thanks to the anonymous (or the wind?) for doing the service.
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Mike Dahlquist

Trad climber
Oakland, CA
Jul 21, 2005 - 11:19pm
 
Watch out for the boxer shorts at the stance just under the bolts near the top of the route. They aren't just any boxer shorts, but someone crapped their pants in them and cut them off with a knife. I'm not making this up. Other than that little surprise (which was probably worth the laugh) I enjoyed this route.
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Gary Carpenter

climber
SF Bay Area
Jul 10, 2005 - 09:35pm
 
Ed:

This is actually the anchor at the top of Pitch 5 as shown in the SuperTopo guide. Remember we combined pitches 2 & 3.

Gary
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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 10, 2005 - 07:41pm
 
Was up this route yesterday, July 9 2005. It was a "re-hab" route to test out the body after a three week problem with my back. Everything seemed to work!

The beta: the left bolt of the three bolt belay station atop pitch 4 seems to have been damaged. The left-to-right bolts are Fixe, Fixe, SMC where the two Fixe are "new" and the SMC an "old" button head.

The bolt on the damaged Fixe seems to have been bent over towards the downcliff side, The nut no longer sits flat on the washer, and cannot be tightened properly. We did not remove the nut and inspect the bolt. It seems that this bolt may have been damaged by rock fall.

Assuming no internal damage to that bolt, the three bolts provide a good anchor for the relatively low angle pitch below. However, the damaged bolt should be examined if only to make sure the nut isn't about to unscrew from the bolt, especially if these bolts are used to rappel.
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Orion

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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   Aug 23, 2004 - 05:02pm
I did the seam on the first pitch located between the two 5.8 starts to pitch 1 and was wondering if anyone else had done this to spice up the first pitch and what they thought the rating was?

Great route, my favorite part was looking back on pitch five and seeing the rope disappearing over the skyline below you, with nary a piece of pro, good thing the slab hiking is easy.
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
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alramadan

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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   Jul 26, 2003 - 04:29pm
We did this route a week ago. Its totally awesome and a must do. The first two pitches are great finger cracks and the upper pitches are awesome friction climbing.

It's a solid 5.8 route and you have to be comfortable climbing a long way above your last piece. Combining pitch 1 & 2 is a good idea but not essential. Combining pitch 3 & 4 isn't so good, rope drag makes it really hard while friction climbing. There are plenty of good places to establish an anchor at the top of pitch 3.

The views are awesome and the rock is perfect. And you can go swiming in Tenaya lake after the climb. What a perfect place!
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Greg Barnes

climber
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   Sep 7, 2002 - 12:23am
Actually the best 60m linking beta is to do the right start & run pitches 1 & 2 together (requires that your partner simulclimb 40' up 4th class), then to run pitches 3 & 4 together (requires that you run it out and not place pro for the last 50' of the traverse of pitch 3). If you place too much pro then your rope won't quite make it, so this is only for experienced leaders...

Greg
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cragrat

Advanced climber
Sep 6, 2002 - 03:46pm
 
With a 60m rope it seems a good idea to run pitches 2 & 3 together missing out the big ledge (belay 2) esp if you belay at the optional belay above pitch 1.
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ANuthertraddudeinCali

Novice climber
Aug 5, 2002 - 12:07pm
 
You mean male titties on real fat dudes.
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calitradclimber

Intermediate climber
Aug 4, 2002 - 12:44am
 
This is one classic piece of work, don't lead this thing unless you fully understand what you are getting into. We simalclimbed most pitches, first one is long pitch so be ready. The views are beautiful, the rock is perfect, we did 3 people 4.5 hours car to car...still had time to watch titties jingle back down at the lake when we finished...what an amazing day....
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Greg Barnes

climber
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   Oct 2, 2001 - 01:08pm
I removed the single 1/4" protection bolt on the 4th pitch. This bolt was not original, and about 8' too high for the logical route - many climbers never even noticed it. The Reid/Falkenstein guide did not show it, but the Supertopo does - but it is now gone. TM Herbert thinks we should put a new bolt in 8' lower, but everyone else seems to think "why bother" when the difficulty, and run-outs, are bigger higher on the same pitch anyway.
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Stately Pleasure Dome - South Crack 5.8R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
This line ascends splitter cracks to face moves.
Photo: Greg Barnes
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It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.