Cry Baby, Lembert Dome 5.8 R

 
Search
Go

Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Sort 6 beta reports by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
What is route "beta"?
Submit Beta on this Route
Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (4.0)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
2 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 100%  (2)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Cedrik

Trad climber
Bishop
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Aug 30, 2009 - 04:16pm
The fourth bolt is hard to see. I took what looked like the easiest line from the third bolt and never found the fourth. There's still a fair bit of lichen, but otherwise it's a very nice pitch. Definitely harder than Shagadelic, I think it's a pretty solid 5.8.

One 70 m rope gets you down far enough to downclimb easy slab to the bottom.

This may become the standard first pitch on Crying Time since it's nice and direct to the second pitch anchors, maybe that's why it's shown here as a 6 pitch climb rather than 1 pitch.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
jplaut

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jun 10, 2013 - 03:17pm
 
I started up this route last weekend. I clipped the first bolt and continued up about another 40 ft. without seeing any more bolts. In the end, I had to do a sketchy extremely runout traverse to the Crying Time Again bolts. I looked straight down from the second pitch anchor of Crying Time and still didn't see a single bolt on above the first one on Cry Baby. So, did the bolts get chopped? In any case, I wouldn't start up Cry Baby unless you're confident with 100+ ft. runouts on 5.8 slab.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Matt's

climber
Jun 10, 2013 - 04:10pm
 
jplaut--my partner did the exact same thing, going from the low bolt on crybaby to the anchors of crying time again... i think the route is chopped...
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
fijibrian

climber
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Jul 27, 2013 - 10:26pm
Hi,a few people have had problems finding the bolts on "Cry Baby".The 1st seems to be found easily enough.You cannot see the second bolt from the first-it is up about 35'(+or-) over a slight bulge and climbers right of the first bolt.Crux near the first bolt then progressively easier climbing.(with the perspective of doing the route again a couple of times later the crux is maybe 5.9)Bolt #2 is much the same story-up and slightly right and hard to see. Bolt #3 is climbers left of #2 up about 25ish feet-angling toward the anchors on crying time.the last bolt is climbers left and 15 or so feet up continuing the angle towards the belay. Runouts are commensurate with crying time .Cant think of why it would have been chopped,or why choppers would have left the 1st bolt if they removed ones above.....might be prudent to do the standard start for crying time to the bolted anchor(watch rope drag )then look down and climbers left(about 25') for the bolts should one want to do the pitch sometime.Most think it is a better start to crying time.
P.S. good job on the brown pants runout- you may have done a F.A variation!
*This is my 1st post on supertopo and hope it is not too long-i am injured and can't climb for awhile so i am spewing instead.








Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
fijibrian

climber
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Jul 30, 2013 - 07:06pm
Whoops! correction on my post for "cry Baby" should read; From the top of pitch 1 (bolted anchor)on "Crying Time" look down and climbers right (not left as mentioned)about 25 feet for last bolt on cry baby. Hope my beta for cry baby helps avoid some grief.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Lembert Dome - Cry Baby 5.8 R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Cryin' Time Again is route A.
Photo: Greg Barnes
Submit Beta on this Route
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.