North Face, Eichorn's Pinnacle 5.4

 
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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Rating Distribution
5 Total Ratings
5 star: 40%  (2)
4 star: 40%  (2)
3 star: 20%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
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Colt45

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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   Jun 19, 2004 - 10:07pm
Holy cow, this is one amazing pitch!!! It would be ridiculous to climb cathedral and not add this on afterwards if you have the time.

It is quite steep and exposed for 5.4, and note that initially you have to do a short 4th class hand traverse to belay from a small stance to keep rope drag down for the leader.

The descent down to the John Muir trail took a while, and it might be faster to simply use the standard Cathedral descent.
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Fields

Trad climber
CA
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   Jul 28, 2004 - 04:58pm
We did this yesterday after Cathedral. WOW!!!
It's very fun and I highly recommend taking the extra time to do it. (most people seem to hustle down from Cathedral...)

Just to let you know, the bolts have NOT been replaced and are old/rusty/scary. There are a bunch of slings around a small but somewhat decent bolder and through the old bolts. I would bring some webbing/rap ring just in case you decide to get rid of the old, weathering slings.

And don't forget the registry.

Great climb.
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Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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   Aug 30, 2004 - 05:57pm
Great route. Climbed it on a quiet, sunny day (although a tad windy): 25 August 04.

Had a bit of hard time tryin' to figure out where to belay the first pitch from. Helped that the topo indicated to not clip the fixed pin above the slab, though. A bit more detailed topo could keep folks from fishin' around for that tiny stance (although we found it ok anyhoo). Pretty detailed as it is, I suppose...

Neat, neat route. Not too many 5.4's with that kind of exposure and easy cruising. Stupendious.

Anchor on top looked fine as the sling mass was around a chockstone and through the old, rusty bolts too. Might be helpful in the future to mention that the rappel ends up right on the initial traverse ledge (in case the rap rings aren't positioned that way) on the same side of the ridge-lette as the climb is on. Might prevent someone from rappin' into space on the far side of the pinnacle, maybe.

Worthy of a day hike/trip all by itself.

Brian in SLC
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climber4life

Mountain climber
seattle
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   Nov 11, 2005 - 01:49am
A few hundred feet from Cathedral Peak, Eichorn Pinnacle stands as one of the most spectacular features in the Sierra. The climb starts with a traverse off a large ledge onto tremendously exposed terrain that is sure to make your stomach turn. Though the moves are well protected and rated 5.4, the fantastic exposure will get blood pumping for even the most experienced climbers. The climb ends on a spectacular summit with dramatic exposure on every side. This is a great linkup with Cathedral Peak.
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Chugar

Trad climber
Mariposa, CA
Jun 18, 2007 - 04:13pm
 
Hi all, I'd like to do the Cathedral Southeast Butress and the North Face of Eichorn. Got a question: in order to get that nice $ shot on top of Eichorn, do you need a 2nd party to take that shot or can the belayer take it? I'm assuming the shot is taken on top of Cathedral... Thanks!
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Chugar

Trad climber
Mariposa, CA
Jul 2, 2007 - 01:23am
 
Thanks for the info! Also, the two old anchors bolts up top have been backed up with one new anchor bolt. Rap rings connect all three for a secure rappel.
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davidji

Social climber
CA
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   Jun 18, 2007 - 04:54pm
Chugar,

The $$ shot is from the east (towards the summit). The climb starts at the NW part of the pinnacle, and if you were being belayed, your belayer couldn't take the pic.

While the route is committing, and may feel stout for 5.4, it makes a fun solo if you're into that. In that case the person who belayed you on the SE Butt could take the pic. Couldn't tell you how it is to solo downclimb, since I rapped.
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Gene

climber
Jun 18, 2007 - 07:42pm
 
Have your second belay you to the top - it's one pitch. Have the belayer scoot back toward the top of Cathedral and take the hero shop. Rap off the top. Return the favor to your partner.
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 11, 2009 - 04:40pm
 
cool trip report here http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=927257
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georgiegirl

Sport climber
Heaven
Aug 5, 2010 - 11:49am
 
Any one been up this lately? Just curious about the state of the rap bolts at the top? Are they smooth enough to run the rope straight through or should I bring some extra webbing?
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froodish

Social climber
Portland, Oregon
Aug 5, 2010 - 02:54pm
 
FWIW, short clip from the summit from September of last year (2009):

http://pangram.org/misc/eichorn-summit-full.mov

Looked good to me then. Kinda hard to tell in the clip, but the new bolt backing the relics up is down to the left (if facing Cathedral) which is the direction you rap off. As a general rule, I'd bring a tied sling (and rap ring too) along on outings like this. As you can see from the turds by the old bolts, there's critters up there and critters have been known to chew on webbing.

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Eichorn's Pinnacle - North Face 5.4 - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The unreal summit of Eichorn Pinnacle.
Photo: Randy Spurrier
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