Errett by Bit, Dozier Dome 5.7

 
Search
Go

Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Sort 8 beta reports by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
What is route "beta"?
Submit Beta on this Route
Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (5.0)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
1 Total Ratings
5 star: 100%  (1)
4 star: 0%  (0)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
surfstar

climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 1, 2012 - 05:51pm
 
Optional cam placement on first pitch isn't really needed (to protect second from swing) and adds drag. Sling one of the first anchor bolts long to reduce drag and there's no need for an 'approach' pitch of 40'.
Second pitch is long with awesome knobs and full-value for the grade.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Aug 1, 2012 - 07:08pm
 
Is this the same route as "Errett Out"? Grant and Co were out the day we climbed that line; they were working on another, between it and Holdless Horror. Grant explained that he finished up EO after seeing that one of Errett's lower off 'biners had remained in the same place for a couple of years. Apparently, Errett was going it solo, which explains the number of bolts off the starting ledge.

EO follows a black streak - more of a grey streak, actually - with peanut sized knobs. Although, at 5.7, it's not difficult, the knobs had sort of a brittle feel to them, and so we bailed from the top of the 1st pitch (not counting the 40 foot friction approach pitch). What with the additional traffic this line's probably seen by now, I'd imagine much looseness has been eliminated.

The line Grant was on that day, actually "coaching" his partners from the ground due to another arm injury, went up golden rock, and looked a lot cleaner, and steeper.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Greg Barnes

climber
Aug 1, 2012 - 09:08pm
 
Errett by Bit is a linkup - start Errett Out, go right to the belay for Bit by Bit, then finish Bit by Bit.

It's pretty easy to accidentally end up at the Bit by Bit belay if you follow the right-leaning ramp feature (hard to spot the Errett Out bolt and anchor among all the giant knobs).

edit: I think Grant said that Errett's project had been left for more like 15+ years, not a couple...
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Aug 2, 2012 - 12:16am
 
Hmmmm. Climbed the same day Surfstar was there. Greg, you know the area really well. Followed some folks up Erret out and decided to traverse way to the left to some run-out climb that went over a vertical edge well below the head wall bulge. What is it? Was fun.
Edit: Couldn't find it in the guidebook.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Zirkel

climber
Bishop, CA
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Aug 8, 2012 - 01:33pm
Recently did this highly-recommended link up...

The second pitch is, hands down, one of the best easy/moderate knob pitches I've ever done. A long pitch arching up and right, well-bolted at the start and increasing more sporty at the end. The final bolt and belay are difficult to spot while out on the sharp end -- you've just gotta' have faith! Third pitch is worth doing, although only found three of the four bolts listed in the guidebook.

Also to note: the right bolt hanger at second, and exposed, belay is a spinner.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Greg Barnes

climber
Aug 8, 2012 - 05:00pm
 
Hey Tony, missed your question earlier.

Did the route you climb have an old rusty 2-bolt belay (about 25' up and left from the first anchor on Errett Out), then a rusty 1/4" maybe 80 feet higher to the left protecting the steep section? If so that's Repo Man (FA Chris Falkenstein, Tom Herbert, '85). I'm pretty sure that Errett accidentally retrobolted the start of Repo Man when he started what would later be Errett Out (since Repo Man starts by traversing left up the dike - so you'd climb right by at least one bolt on Errett Out). Grant started a direct start to Repo Man years ago (should be one or two bolts above the horizontal crack at the bottom, probably about 40-70' left of the start of Errett Out, first bolt maybe 60-80 feet up?).

Several hugely runout routes have been done between Errett Out and the routes around Blitzo's Balcony, some back in the day, some recently. I don't think any of the recent ones used any bolts (not sure on that though).
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Aug 8, 2012 - 11:19pm
 
Could be Greg although there was a bolt just about in line with the first Erret belay then a bolt (old bolts) over the vertical bulge to a two bolt anchor. But then a bolt about 10' up and then nothing for a while. Hmmm. Does anyone have a topo? Clint? Could add it to bolt replacement when I'm back that way.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Dozier Dome - Errett by Bit 5.7 - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Errett by Bit is right of route H
Photo: Greg Barnes
Submit Beta on this Route
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.