Bombs Over Tokyo, Daff Dome 5.10c

 
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
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  • 4
  • 5
 (4.7)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 67%  (2)
4 star: 33%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
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clustiere

Big Wall climber
Mill Valley, CA
Aug 4, 2003 - 09:42pm
 
how ia it that this route is 12a in the Reid book and 10c in this book/online topo store.
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clustiere

Big Wall climber
Mill Valley, CA
Aug 4, 2003 - 09:44pm
 
bah
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August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Aug 5, 2003 - 06:57pm
 
The 10c is only the first pitch.

This is a very good route. Slightly awkward ~5.9 down low and then you get into the beautiful 10c crack.

If I remember correctly, the anchors are a bit out of view.
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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
May 19, 2004 - 09:01pm
 
indeed, the description on this page is fairly confusing. The topo probably makes it clearer.
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del cross

climber
Sep 1, 2004 - 10:34pm
 
The topo says pitch 1 is 105', so it isn't entirely obvious that you can rap it with one 60m line. But you can. Just barely.
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gregs

Trad climber
cotati,ca
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   Oct 24, 2008 - 03:03pm
Did the first pitch. Very good route. Need multiple .3 inch cams to protect the upper section of the pitch. 60 foot rope reaches to rap, barely.
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dbs

climber
Nov 12, 2008 - 02:41pm
 
The reason why it was 12a in Reids book and now much easier is because they changed the way the route was originally done. The second pitch is not an R rating it was adequately protected with a knifeblade and some small stoppers. It would appear that people just aren't comfortable climbing with this type of gear anymore so they have to bolt it or go a different direction. They should call the new Bombs Over Tokyo something like I Bombed on Bombs. Just kidding it probably is a mighty proud line.
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Sascha

climber
Oakland, CA
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   Sep 13, 2009 - 07:18pm
First pitch is phenomenal and favors the smaller fingers. You can lower the leader on a 60m rope if you're tied in and ready to climb (have your shoes within reach!).
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chick_on_ice

Trad climber
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   Jul 1, 2013 - 05:04pm
My first 10c. Super well-protected, and my intro to crack climbing on the West Coast. A good climb to ease into the grade IMO. Stays in the shade in the morning. A complete delight that I will fondly remember. (I don't necessarily recommend warming up on it for West Crack, but what does one do when all the other climbs are busy?)
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Daff Dome - Bombs Over Tokyo 5.10c - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.