my friend casey answered the question everyone who has climbed this route has asked: what would happen if you fell onto one of know tie-offs?
"i slotted a black (!) alien at the start of the crack on top (the crux).. started to go up, then realized i was kinda in the wrong position. didn't want to crank through the crux and fall on the black alien, so i downclimbed, and figured if i just rested on it.. as soon as i put my weight on it, bing! popped. so i fell to the knob below. pretty far, down to the first knob. so it was a big fall but from a rest, so not scary. probably kind of like an aid
fall i guess!"
so there you have it... the knobs actually hold falls!
What a cool route! I thought the 10b moves between some of the knobs and finaggling the tie-offs while hanging on steep terrain was tougher than the 10c crack finish. The start of the crack protects with a grey (00 I think?) TCU slotted in a horizontal crack to the right paired with a #4 BD stopper in the vertical crack... I didn't test hanging/falling on either, but they were both kinda tough to clean, so I'd like to think they would have held. Lobbing from the start of the crack to the first knob tie-off is quite a whipper and distrubingly close to the slab below! Good to know those knobs are strong.
what i was wondering was not if the knobs would break in a fall but whether the knobs that broke my falls would break my balls.
How is that East Shore pile called Ballbuster I ask.
Chris McNamara on Candyland.
Photo: Photo by Sarah Felchlin
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.