Candyland, Phantom Spires, Middle Spire 5.10c

 
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Lake Tahoe, California, USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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  • 5
 (5.0)
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2 Total Ratings
5 star: 100%  (2)
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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   Jul 30, 2005 - 07:04pm
my friend casey answered the question everyone who has climbed this route has asked: what would happen if you fell onto one of know tie-offs?


"i slotted a black (!) alien at the start of the crack on top (the crux).. started to go up, then realized i was kinda in the wrong position. didn't want to crank through the crux and fall on the black alien, so i downclimbed, and figured if i just rested on it.. as soon as i put my weight on it, bing! popped. so i fell to the knob below. pretty far, down to the first knob. so it was a big fall but from a rest, so not scary. probably kind of like an aid
fall i guess!"

so there you have it... the knobs actually hold falls!
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casey

climber
oakland
Aug 3, 2005 - 02:10pm
 
oh, ya. it was a long fall. best advice for that section is to scope it out first while on the knob, and then do it right the first time when you get up there.

but yes the knob didn't break on me!
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Lars Ensign

Trad climber
Zephyr Cove, NV
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   May 31, 2006 - 07:23am
What a cool route! I thought the 10b moves between some of the knobs and finaggling the tie-offs while hanging on steep terrain was tougher than the 10c crack finish. The start of the crack protects with a grey (00 I think?) TCU slotted in a horizontal crack to the right paired with a #4 BD stopper in the vertical crack... I didn't test hanging/falling on either, but they were both kinda tough to clean, so I'd like to think they would have held. Lobbing from the start of the crack to the first knob tie-off is quite a whipper and distrubingly close to the slab below! Good to know those knobs are strong.
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i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jul 11, 2013 - 01:30am
 
what i was wondering was not if the knobs would break in a fall but whether the knobs that broke my falls would break my balls.
How is that East Shore pile called Ballbuster I ask.
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Phantom Spires, Middle Spire - Candyland 5.10c - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
Chris McNamara on Candyland.
Photo: Photo by Sarah Felchlin
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.