Triassic Sands, Whiskey Peak 5.10c

 
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Red Rocks, Nevada USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.8)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
9 Total Ratings
5 star: 78%  (7)
4 star: 22%  (2)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Catrina Behling

climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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   Mar 16, 2012 - 02:14pm
Love Love Love this route. Pulling the rope can be pretty tricky off the 3rd pitch. There is a very helpful bolt right next to the rope snagging horn, so u can lower off, n clean ur gear. We chose to leave a beaner rather than downlead... Must do 4th pitch.
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Harry Mammil

Trad climber
Llanrwst
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   Jan 12, 2012 - 12:35am
If you have fat fingers like mine and a couple have flailed on the thin crack for an hour or so beforehand making it really greasy try this alternative:
From the jug at the base of the crack rock up to a finger edge just right of the crack, match and reach left to the good hold at the top. You still have one hard move but you aren't jiggered. Not a long reach either!

Mike Hammill
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franknfrank

Trad climber
US-east haven-ct
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   Oct 21, 2009 - 05:39pm
just did the route and rapped from topof pitch 4 --everything seemed ok---if your on this route you gotta do p4 i think its super classic and would be a shame to miss it...
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susan peplow

climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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   May 10, 2006 - 09:32pm
Excellent route. Linked pitches 1 (40 feet) & 2 together easily with 70m cord. Found the crux below the roof to be the finger crack, not the actual roof itself if the crux is truly 10c it's so short it doesn't make that much of an impact.

This route is definitely worth the trip. Add the side car 10a 16 bolt sport route afterwards as a fun to-do. (this can be rapped or set up a top rope with one 70m rope.

Enjoy....we did!

Susan
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vegastradguy

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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   Apr 14, 2006 - 07:58pm
Thanks a bunch Greg!!!
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Greg Barnes

climber
Apr 10, 2006 - 11:43am
 
Replaced the bolted anchors on pitch 3 & 4 and the protection bolt next to the death flake on pitch 4. Two of the 3 bolts at the pitch 3 anchor had pulled out (a 1/4" and a 3/8" nail-in). The protection bolt and the pitch 3 anchor are 1/2" bolts.

Pitch 4 is great, but don't underestimate that flake - it both flexes and rotates, and if it broke it would be disasterous for everyone (including anyone near the base). Should have been trundled on the FA...but at least now you can clip the pro bolt and trust it (used to be a 1/4" Star-Dryvin). Better to aid on that bolt than stand on the flake.
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vegastradguy

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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   Oct 23, 2005 - 07:52pm
One of the best in Red Rock, to be sure.

Definitely go to the top on it, or at least to the top of 4. The 'Fang' is not nearly as spooky as it looks and its only one move thats well protected by a cam (with an old bolt nearby). Above, the pitch opens into Indian Creek style climbing with a Red Rock flair up top.

The ST Rack is right on the money if you're climbing at your limit, although looking back, I think i'd only take two 3" cams instead of 3.

PS- The bolts, while good enough for rappelling, are starting to look a little....iffy. Greg, if you see this before I talk to you, put the top of 3 and the top of 4 on your 'to replace list', they need some love.
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TheHip

Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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   Nov 23, 2004 - 09:14pm
THe 2nd and 3rd pitches are awesome. After reading the beta on this site I realize that we should have continued but man, the start of the 4th pitch looked sketch!

The start of the 2nd pitch affords great photo ops (Vegas in the background)
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clustiere

Trad climber
running springs, ca
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   Oct 13, 2004 - 12:47am
Worth going to the top on.
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clustiere

Big Wall climber
running springs, ca
Mar 23, 2004 - 11:04am
 
Great Route worth topping out on. The 4th pitch had a shifty and scary block that most people will end up standing on, it moves side to side and not out yet with out it the climbing will likely become harder. All the anchors seemed to look good to me with perhaps some minor hangar shifting. Its mostly 5.7-9 hand jamming. Simply outstanding. Near by is Wholesomefullbeck and Our Father which are amazing as well.

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Matt M

Trad climber
Alamo City
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   Oct 28, 2003 - 02:47pm
Didn't think the bolts at the top of #3 were horrible, but they were looking aged and the tat is an eyesore. Rap to the top of San Filipe to avoid people below you and the risk of the rope jamming in the killer crack.
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Patrick

Trad climber
Reno, NV
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   Oct 9, 2003 - 04:11pm
I've done the route a couple of times since OCT of 2001. Once I topped out, and then once rapped off 4th pitch bolts. I would be way more concerned about the bolts at the top of the 3rd pitch than those at the top of the 4th. The bolts looked new to me the first time and still seemed solid last year.
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 08:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
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Greg Barnes

climber
May 19, 2003 - 11:04pm
 
Just got an email from Jed & Patrick (the climbing rangers), they said the anchor on top of the 4th pitch needs replacement, and one of the bolts on the top of the 3rd is also a bit loose.

We're not allowed to replace bolts at all at the moment, a full bolt ban including hand drill replacement of bolts is in place until they figure out how to manage the new Wilderness areas.
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XavLV

Trad climber
Las Vegas, Nevada
Dec 2, 2002 - 08:49am
 
The bolts at the top of the fourth pitch aren'y quarter inchers but they're not new either. I'm really not qualified to talk about their condition other than to say I had no problem belaying or rapping off of them. There were no chains, only slings from the hangers.

Greg, thanks for all of your work at Red Rock. It's very appreciated...
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Greg Barnes

climber
Nov 28, 2002 - 12:33pm
 
Killer, I was wondering whether there might be an anchor up there. That pitch looks so killer, but I've always been there at the end of the day without enough time to make it to the very top.

Xav, how are the bolts, webbing, whatever? Old or new, chains, etc?

Thanks - Greg
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xav

Novice climber
Nov 28, 2002 - 12:22am
 
some comments on the SuperTopo: There ARE bolts on top of pitch 4 and this 5.10 pitch is VERY worthwhile. Fun, with changing corner systems on beautiful and safe rock. The next two pitches of easy 5th and 4th class suck, but the 4th pitch deserves more mention. The swain guide says you can't rapp off pitch 4 and it's just not true.
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Whiskey Peak - Triassic Sands 5.10c - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click to Enlarge
Located in Black Velvet Canyon, Whiskey Peak Wall is packed full of amazing climbs.
Photo: Greg Barnes
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.